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Ohhhh interesting then. Might be a game changer for my budget. Is this rear wheel HP or at the flywheel without drivetrain?
Flywheel. Gen 1 Mustang Coyote's are 411hp flywheel factory. The F150's are 360hp factory, though the main difference is they are detuned for more low end torque. You would have to take my word for it, but save your money and put it into something else. Mine rips hard! If it hooks that is and I run 295 Michelins out back. Everyone wants a 600hp engine, but can you use it on the street?

Best advice I can give you is do your homework, research everything to exhaustion and just be realistic in your goals!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Flywheel. Gen 1 Mustang Coyote's are 411hp flywheel factory. The F150's are 360hp factory, though the main difference is they are detuned for more low end torque. You would have to take my word for it, but save your money and put it into something else. Mine rips hard! If it hooks that is and I run 295 Michelins out back. Everyone wants a 600hp engine, but can you use it on the street?

Best advice I can give you is do your homework, research everything to exhaustion and just be realistic in your goals!
Things I needed to hear: This. Thats awesome, and as long as it changes my mind from “I wish it was faster” to “Damn thats fast” Id be happy
 

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Another word of advice, do your research on front suspensions, because something is 2x cheaper it may not be the right solution for a coyote swap. If you are on facebook join "Coyote swapped classic mustangs" lots of real world advice from others that have done it.
 

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Lots of great feedback on this thread. I have two ongoing Coyote builds linked in my signature. They might provide some insight. For you first build, I would definitely recommend creating an excel document listing parts and expected costs. Build a photo library from other cars to see what parts work together and how others have "engineered" and problem solved." As others have mentioned, each vendor kit (K member, Transmission crossmember, suspension, etc.) places the engine at a different heigh and distance from the firewall which determine what you can and cannot do in terms of things like steering, radiator, serpentine accessories, and brake master cylinder. Also, not all parts from different vendors play together and build tolerances will vary between identical model shells. There are kits out there that will allow you to fit a T56 without raising your tunnel, but all kits that I have seen require the tunnel support to be notched. Also, one should be also thinking about strengthening your chassis. A 68 already has both torque boxes, but you should definitely consider subframe connectors and also factor in upgrading your rear suspension. Depending on your transmission ratios, you can't go wrong in the 3.5 to 3.89 range, but ultimately tire size is a determining variable. In my opinion, a Coyote build is not for the faint of heart, but if willing and prepared, it is truly an awesome endeavor that will transform your car into something special. It is great that you are doing your research. Best of luck.

1966 Convertible, Heidts Pro G Gen 2

744639


1965 Fastback, Heidts Pro G Gen 2 up front with Heidts IRS in the rear. T56, Spintech subframe connectors.

744640


744641
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Lots of great feedback on this thread. I have two ongoing Coyote builds linked in my signature. They might provide some insight. For you first build, I would definitely recommend creating an excel document listing parts and expected costs. Build a photo library from other cars to see what parts work together and how others have "engineered" and problem solved." As others have mentioned, each vendor kit (K member, Transmission crossmember, suspension, etc.) places the engine at a different heigh and distance from the firewall which determine what you can and cannot do in terms of things like steering, radiator, serpentine accessories, and brake master cylinder. Also, not all parts from different vendors play together and build tolerances will vary between identical model shells. There are kits out there that will allow you to fit a T56 without raising your tunnel, but all kits that I have seen require the tunnel support to be notched. Also, one should be also thinking about strengthening your chassis. A 68 already has both torque boxes, but you should definitely consider subframe connectors and also factor in upgrading your rear suspension. Depending on your transmission ratios, you can't go wrong in the 3.5 to 3.89 range, but ultimately tire size is a determining variable. In my opinion, a Coyote build is not for the faint of heart, but if willing and prepared, it is truly an awesome endeavor that will transform your car into something special. It is great that you are doing your research. Best of luck.

1966 Convertible, Heidts Pro G Gen 2

View attachment 744639

1965 Fastback, Heidts Pro G Gen 2 up front with Heidts IRS in the rear. T56, Spintech subframe connectors.

View attachment 744640

View attachment 744641
Thanks for the insight! The excel sheet is a really good idea for keeping everything organized. And I think I’ll have a talk with mustangs to fear and see what they would suggest as well
 

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Discussion Starter #27
by going F150 engine vs Mustang you can save ~$3-4k. Just a couple examples of how you can save some big money when planning out your project.
I wanna thank this user for pointing this out! The Gen III Coyotes in the 2018+ F-150's run for below what a Gen I Mustang Coyote while cranking out about the same horsepower.
 

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I wanna thank this user for pointing this out! The Gen III Coyotes in the 2018+ F-150's run for below what a Gen I Mustang Coyote while cranking out about the same horsepower.
BEWARE, in 2015 Ford changed the firing order for the F150 Coyote and I have not heard of anyone who has been able to get one to work as of yet. Not saying it cant be done, but would add an unwanted layer of difficulty and probably $$$. Stick with the Gen 1 F150 if you go that route. I was able to find a 34k mile coyote out of a 2014 for $2600 from LKQ.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
BEWARE, in 2015 Ford changed the firing order for the F150 Coyote and I have not heard of anyone who has been able to get one to work as of yet. Not saying it cant be done, but would add an unwanted layer of difficulty and probably $$$. Stick with the Gen 1 F150 if you go that route. I was able to find a 34k mile coyote out of a 2014 for $2600 from LKQ.
Huh, that sucks a little. Since I’m here to learn, what reason would changing the firing order make it not work?
 

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Huh, that sucks a little. Since I’m here to learn, what reason would changing the firing order make it not work?
I know, I was really looking into the Gen 2 F150 Coyotes at first and luckily came across this issue before I made a purchase. The computer system, especially the Ford Performance Pack, is setup for a Mustang firing order. A tuner may be able to go into the computer and change it, but I have not heard of any successful attempts as of yet. There are other control systems out there, but the Ford Performance Pack was very well thought out and uses factory parts that are easily replaceable if needed down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I know, I was really looking into the Gen 2 F150 Coyotes at first and luckily came across this issue before I made a purchase. The computer system, especially the Ford Performance Pack, is setup for a Mustang firing order. A tuner may be able to go into the computer and change it, but I have not heard of any successful attempts as of yet. There are other control systems out there, but the Ford Performance Pack was very well thought out and uses factory parts that are easily replaceable if needed down the road.
Would a standalone control pack work possibly? Ive heard names like FAST and others but, I have no idea how the new tech works necessarily. Or would they be able to tune anything on an OEM harness with the correct firing order for the F-150?
 

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Would a standalone control pack work possibly? Ive heard names like FAST and others but, I have no idea how the new tech works necessarily. Or would they be able to tune anything on an OEM harness with the correct firing order for the F-150?
Those are excellent questions that unfortunately I can't answer. Hopefully one of the other members will chime in with some knowledge or at least some sources to research. Maybe a call to one the stand alone system manufacturers would yield some good info. Hopefully it can be done and you can take advantage of the newer engines. Another possibility is putting the Mustang cams in the newer F150 Coyotes, that may be a way to get it to work as well.

Keep us posted on what you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hopefully it can be done and you can take advantage of the newer engines. Another possibility is putting the Mustang cams in the newer F150 Coyotes, that may be a way to get it to work as well.

Keep us posted on what you find out.
For sure will whenever I start and create a build thread. Thanks for all the help!
 

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I know, I was really looking into the Gen 2 F150 Coyotes at first and luckily came across this issue before I made a purchase. The computer system, especially the Ford Performance Pack, is setup for a Mustang firing order. A tuner may be able to go into the computer and change it, but I have not heard of any successful attempts as of yet. There are other control systems out there, but the Ford Performance Pack was very well thought out and uses factory parts that are easily replaceable if needed down the road.
I could have sworn Lund could fix that issue in the tune...worst case you swam to mustang cams and i think phasers (or something like that) to make a control pack work with a gen 2 f150 engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I could have sworn Lund could fix that issue in the tune...worst case you swam to mustang cams and i think phasers (or something like that) to make a control pack work with a gen 2 f150 engine.
I feel like I couldn’t find a cam set for the Mustang style cams for less than 1500... and at that point I’m in for the same amount of money but more work for a mustang motor
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Well thats good to know! I guess I just need to look harder. And I’ve watched a cam swap it doesn't look too difficult... maybe do that myself and save the money of someone else doing it
 
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