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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I'll take that as a definite compliment! 😁 Yes, I'm still trying to decide how to enclose the arms, I just confirmed that I do have to separate the pickup points from the cockpit. I've been trying to do it in a minimalist way and have been considering how to encompass shielding the mufflers and hadn't even considered opening up the floor underneath. I may be able to do so but will need to check the rules.
Ok, hopefully my last novice suggestion, or question, on the exhaust. What about just extending it back into the trunk area before it exits? Tuck it into the fender well behind wheelwell? I know it would then exit out the back, adding some length, but it would get it away from the cockpit area. Ok, I’m out….
 
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Discussion Starter · #243 · (Edited)
The exhaust all boils down primarily to routing and to another extent weight distribution. The lower links on the rear suspension cause routing problems I didn't want to deal with, and I did consider installing the mufflers on either side of the fuel tank in the area formerly occupied by the departed leaf springs.

The weight issue is another fixation of mine; I don't want to add any more weight behind the rear axle than is absolutely necessary. To the point that I even looked at fabbing a fuel tank that rested between the hump over the rearend and the package tray below the back window. The only thing stopping that was the routing for a fill tube and the additional 100 pounds or so (tank and contents) being placed that high in the car.

If you look at a picture showing the fuel cell it's as far forward and to the right as it can be in the stock opening. Yes, I could have cut out some of the original trunk floor and moved it farther forward but chose not to.

My original plan for the exhaust was for a set of over the block 180-degree headers which would have come together in a collector roughly where the heater blower motor resides in a stock car. Then thru 5" exhaust thru a race muffler that would cross the passengers lap (if there were a passenger seat in the car) ultimately exiting thru the passenger door towards the rear of the door. This was the plan after I let a buddy talk me into cutting out the shock towers and installing one of those front ends with the weld in crossmember, Pinto A-arms and rack and pinion steering. I was at a dealer of said system with money and laptop in hand and they would not share their pickup point dimensions with me to allow me to plug it into a buddy's suspension geometry program, so I turned to the Ride Tech stuff. I've never been a fan of strut front ends so that was never an option for me.

The exhaust thru the interior isn't a novel idea and while it's most common use is in NASCAR and other circle racing circles it's also quite common in club and pro road racing in the higher classes. As to the cabin heat issue, remember that this is an autocross car. Maximum time in the car at speed is less than two minutes and there will be shielding of some type most likely consisting of boxing in that whole area of the back seat. Besides when I add some fake N20 fill ports and gauges to the panel it oughta be good for a laugh or two.

Know anybody looking for a full 180-degree exhaust system for an SBF? 😁
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Ok, enough time talking. When does this thing fire up?
 
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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
As to when it fires; I proudly proclaimed when I started this mess that the intent was to have it under its' own power by 1/1/18.

Obviously that didn't work out as well, I've also set another missed date sometime since then. I had hoped that it would make at least one lap around the track prior to the end of the season this year but reality is a bitch and she's stepping in the way again.

I WILL be attending the Solo II Nationals in '23 and since I don't want to come off as a total loser while there that means I need to shake the cobwebs and rust out of my driving "skills", add to that a completely different car and next year should be entertaining. Fortunately there are a LOT of opportunities to air this thing out within a few hours of central Indiana almost every weekend. At this point I'm hoping to fire it off and at least piss off the neighbors before the snow flies but there is still a LOT of work yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
I finally broke down and ordered the Ridetech front swaybar. While on their site I noticed that they had finally developed a solution for the under chassis cross brace compatible withe their suspension system so ordered it as well.

Ordered it Friday morning and had it Saturday afternoon, of course it probably helps that I'm less than 100 miles from their shop.
White Tire Vehicle Hood Automotive tire


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Of course it doesn't count if you don't bleed a little.
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Note to self: walk 8 feet to get the correct tool next time.
 

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Unfortunately, a lesson rarely learned! Need to take a ‘tactical pause’, then get the right tool. It will end up being shorter time / less pain! (At least I try to convince myself!)
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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That’s why my car is vintage burgundy,blood doesn’t show on it as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
So, what are the odds that a 20+ year old Holley blue pump still works?

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Rear drive shaft loop in place:

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I run one front and rear because I watched a friend of mine leave the line in his 5 second Camaro one weekend and the rear u-joint sheared. When the driveshaft hit the pavement at those rpm's it went thru the floor and impacted his seat in the area of his right kidney. Damned near killed him.

My car has nowhere near the horsepower or traction that his Camaro had but witnessing the impact on his life convinced me to install two hoops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 · (Edited)
Branching out a little while waiting on various parts deliveries; started working on fitting a polycarbonate rear windshield. I couldn't figure out how to attach an angle aluminum flange and get it to bend to the body contours then I remembered some things from my United airlines days; notch the angle to allow it to conform to the body lines. Lowes had a panel notcher but the 1/16" aluminum was double the intended capacity of the notcher but I bought it and got lucky as it works quite well..
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The notcher is even Made in the USA(y)(y)
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Nice clean notches, only took about 45 seconds to notch it.
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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I’m not gonna lie, I’m liking that. I may have to add that to the ol’ tool box.
 
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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
I thought about it but the pre-formed polycarb windshields cost more than a replacement windshield, add in the gaskets and stainless-steel trim and, well, you know the score. I'll have about $200 total in the front and rear installation with less weight. Besides it gives me something to do while I wait on my engine and transmission frame mounts get back from the powder coater.

I still have my original polycarb windshields to use as a pattern so not a lot of additional effort.

I'd much rather be wiring it right now but you know the saying, "Poor planning on your part doesn't create an emergency on my part" In this case I poorly planned the visit to the powder coater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Unable to locate my original monte carlo bar so I ordered a new one from Scott Drake. Apparently there are different measurements as far as the length of the bar. Of course the one I received is 1/2" too short in spite of the fact that the mounting holes on the horizontal part of the mount lines up perfectly with the factory holes in the fender apron. A couple of 1/4" spacers should do the trick though.
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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Unable to locate my original monte carlo bar so I ordered a new one from Scott Drake. Apparently there are different measurements as far as the length of the bar. Of course the one I received is 1/2" too short in spite of the fact that the mounting holes on the horizontal part of the mount lines up perfectly with the factory holes in the fender apron. A couple of 1/4" spacers should do the trick though. View attachment 856970 LLI



View attachment 856967
While I have no doubt there are differences in these I have to ask, how do you know it’s the bar and not the car? Hood gaps and all still good? I see trying to put an export brace back to help check spacing would be a nightmare, but just curious.
 

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Unable to locate my original monte carlo bar so I ordered a new one from Scott Drake. Apparently there are different measurements as far as the length of the bar. Of course the one I received is 1/2" too short in spite of the fact that the mounting holes on the horizontal part of the mount lines up perfectly with the factory holes in the fender apron. A couple of 1/4" spacers should do the trick though. View attachment 856970

Where did you get your center link bar and tie rods? Does this fix the problem with bump steer better than the outer tie rod kit?

Thanx!

View attachment 856967
Unable to locate my original monte carlo bar so I ordered a new one from Scott Drake. Apparently there are different measurements as far as the length of the bar. Of course the one I received is 1/2" too short in spite of the fact that the mounting holes on the horizontal part of the mount lines up perfectly with the factory holes in the fender apron. A couple of 1/4" spacers should do the trick though. View attachment 856970



View attachment 856967
 
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