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Those brackets look quite thicker than OE to me. Leave it to SD to overbuild a part in a problematic way, lol.

We need more pics of your roll cage:), I like the angle of the back legs coming through the package tray.
 

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Strut brackets installed! I've also replaced and upgraded the core support, I installed one for a '67 as it is laid out for a larger radiator. It's essentially a direct swap although you will have to install the 67 front apron on the right side because the battery box layout is different and will leave a largish gap between the core support and fender apron if you don't. The shop is currently a mess due to some remodeling going on, it really isn't THAT crowded working in there!


I see the tubes from the cage come through to the front end , but also a curious lack of torque boxes :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Those brackets look quite thicker than OE to me. Leave it to SD to overbuild a part in a problematic way, lol.

We need more pics of your roll cage:), I like the angle of the back legs coming through the package tray.
I'll work on getting some interior shots of the car posted for you.

I see the tubes from the cage come through to the front end , but also a curious lack of torque boxes :shrug:
Torque boxes are sitting on the shelf still boxed up. After doing some initial trial fitting and reading up on their installation they appear to be a HUGE pita to install. In my research it appears that I have to drill out all of the spot welds in the TB's themselves as they were (are) poorly assembled at the manufacturer and just wont fit as is. I'm not real sure that the extra layer of sheetmetal they add directly under the floor provide the return on investment of installation time and trouble but am considering bending up some sheetmetal and boxing in the area where the TB's go and then selling the TB's.
 

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I'll work on getting some interior shots of the car posted for you.



Torque boxes are sitting on the shelf still boxed up. After doing some initial trial fitting and reading up on their installation they appear to be a HUGE pita to install. In my research it appears that I have to drill out all of the spot welds in the TB's themselves as they were (are) poorly assembled at the manufacturer and just wont fit as is. I'm not real sure that the extra layer of sheetmetal they add directly under the floor provide the return on investment of installation time and trouble but am considering bending up some sheetmetal and boxing in the area where the TB's go and then selling the TB's.
I put them in my 66 and had to take them apart and modify them to fit right. My cowl is wasted and needs to be replaced so I decided I use the torque boxes to help hold the front of the car together.They made a huge difference in front end rigidity,well worth the effort. Cost less than a new cowl and less labor and working pretty well so far:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Adding a few pics of the cage as requested. More to follow:

The PVC is for some dummy pics to get a quote from my cage guy to add a couple of more tubes.



 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)



Finally found a solution to my problem with the Ride Tech bushings not working with the Scott Drake replacement parts. On a recent trip to Oklahoma I found a parts "car" that I was able to cut this from. Don't worry, there was very little left of the "car" this came from so it didn't die in vain at least. Now I'll fab up a jig to correctly locate them on my car then proceed to remove the ones I welded in and replace them with these OEM parts. I've already fit checked the Ride Tech stuff to these and it all fits perfectly. I know, SHOCKER right?


Funny thing in searching my archive for some contact information a few minutes ago I found an email telling a buddy I had the car ready for the '11 SCCA Nationals in Lincoln.:loco::loco::loco:
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Agreed. I bought them many moons ago prior to the current iteration of this project. They are low on the priority list and may or may not end up in use. Triangulation is a good thing so they may go on eventually. I finished separating the OE strut brackets from the clip pictured above and now that I compare them side by side with the Scott Drake equipment it seems a shame to to install the lighter duty OE in place of the SD parts. Unfortunately the SD stuff simply won't fit with the Ride Tech parts. And the fun never ends.

By the way, don't waste your time with Harbor Freight spot weld cutters unless you're using them on aluminum foil. Pretty much junk.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
O.k. I made a jig for each side to ensure the proper placement of the used OE strut brackets after I remove the Scott Drake replacement parts. While removing the OE brackets from the donor clip I wondered if it might be best to just remove the center of the bracket where the strut rod goes thru and replace the SD part with the OE part. The reason being that the SD parts are overall stronger than the OE stuff.

I carefully removed the SD inner bracket but before committing to just swapping this part out I placed my jigs on the car to verify placement of the SD parts and found much to my displeasure that I had installed the SD parts exactly one inch outboard of the proper location. The distressing part is that I used measurements found on either this site or another Mustang site and were professed to be accurate.

At this point I hadn't done any disassembly of the OE brackets so removed the SD brackets as originally planned to install the OE brackets. So where it stands right now is the SD brackets have been removed, the OE brackets have been removed, all welding remains have been cleaned from the frame and using my jigs I have trial fit the OE parts to the frame and then dummied up the Ride Tech parts and amazingly they fit perfectly.

The next step is to drill the necessary holes to support the bearing retainers, sandblast and paint the OE parts and get them welded in then move on with getting everything bolted in to assure fit before painting the forward chassis its final color. Pictures have been taken and will be uploaded in a day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
As promised a few more photos of the installation prep:

I fabricated a jig to properly locate the strut bracket, this is from inside the frame looking at the left front corner with the jig clamped temporarily in place. When I'm ready to do the install I'll tack them in place with the welder so there are no clamps in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Bottom left looking from the outside of the frame, this one shows the jig temporarily in place as well as the replacement OE strut bracket temporarily in place.


 

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Discussion Starter #33
While I had the brackets out I decided to strengthen them a little by completely welding the strut thru bracket. The OE stuff is considerably weaker in design than the Scott Drake stuff, given the load on these components it won't hurt to completely weld them. I've considered adding doubler plates to the outside of the brackets but I guess since many Mustangs have race many miles thru the years without any failures I've ever heard of it's probably not necessary.


 

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Discussion Starter #34
A quick shot of self etching primer before some rattle can semi gloss black prior to the finished color for corrosion protection. Look at all of those spot welds that had to be drilled/cut out to remove the brackets from the donor clip!


 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here's a pretty decent shot of the jig I fabbed; they are unique to each side. The cut off bolt fits in the tiedown point in the bottom of the frame rail and the short piece of flat stock press' against the inside of the frame. The intent of the jig is to place the bracket in the correct location and at the correct angle. The fore aft location is determined where the strut bracket interfaces the sway bar bracket with approximately a 3/16" gap between the two. When I get to that point I'll add another photo highlighting this area.


 

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Discussion Starter #39
I bought my Ride Tech parts in 2012, I successfully bolted on the first component last night! I told you it would be slow going!!:lol: .





 

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Discussion Starter #40
All of the Ride Tech steering components, A-arms, etc are dummied up. I haven't gotten to the the coil overs but will sometime this week.

 
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