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That’s an interesting idea about lower A arm construction tied in with the rod. I didn’t get it until you posted those pics.
 

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Agreed. I bought them many moons ago prior to the current iteration of this project. They are low on the priority list and may or may not end up in use. Triangulation is a good thing so they may go on eventually.
When I built my recent track car I added torque boxes and the cage. My thought was I'd like some foot protection from the tire potentially coming through the floor if I hit something hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Brake components going on the front now. I used a Kore 3 big brake kit, it utilizes C5 calipers and rotors. I don't have the rotors yet but am trying to decide if I want a one piece or two piece hat set up.





This is with a C5 rear wheel/tire combo on it for clearance checks. These wheels have ~ 7" of backspacing and I believe I can get away with around 5-6. I ordered some cheap spacers to use to confirm this and will then order the wheels once I'm sure of the back spacing and wheel to caliper clearances.

 

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Discussion Starter #46
I might have missed something? whats the story on the flat stock center/drag link?
Primarily bump steer AND it's easier to utilize the heim jointed, straight tie rods vs the factory set up. The steering arms on the Ride Tech parts are considerably shorter than the factory components. I don't know if it's obvious but the heavy flat stock center link has the factory center link bolted to the backside. I don't have my idler arm yet but it will install to the factory center link on the other side once installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
This is the rear clearances using an 18X9 wheel with ~5 1/2" backspacing. This does not include the shift to the outside that the rotor will cause because I don't have them on the car yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
This shot is looking forward from the drivers door sans fender. I'm guessing that the top of the tire would be interfering with the fender lip at the top. I have drastically flared fenders to put on it which when dummied up to the car are cartoonishly large for this tire/wheel combo BUT the race wheels and tires will be ~3" wider to the outside.


 

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Discussion Starter #50
Another shot looking from the front:





When it's done those front tires will be 3" wider. I'm hoping I can bring an inch inside as I'm trying to keep the car as narrow as possible but with 13" of tread on the ground on each side "narrow" is relative.
 

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On the ground for the first time in 20 years on it's own "feet"!

Looks good! I was hoping to post the same this morning but I ran out of time and resources last night. Trying to run from one end of the rotisserie to the other, one side of the car to the other working by yourself takes a lot of time AND I ran out of wood blocks and jack stands to support it while unbolting it. By the time I quit last night it was literally 2 inches too high to bring off the rotisserie!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Looks good! I was hoping to post the same this morning but I ran out of time and resources last night. Trying to run from one end of the rotisserie to the other, one side of the car to the other working by yourself takes a lot of time AND I ran out of wood blocks and jack stands to support it while unbolting it. By the time I quit last night it was literally 2 inches too high to bring off the rotisserie!

I've been there, fortunately the neighbor has a backhoe!:surprise:
 

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I noticed you are notching the shock towers but keeping the upper control arm...I am considering this but worried that there isn’t that much room gained....can you post some pics of that area please showing how much room you gained from that


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Discussion Starter #55
I noticed you are notching the shock towers but keeping the upper control arm...I am considering this but worried that there isn’t that much room gained....can you post some pics of that area please showing how much room you gained from that


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I don't have any with an engine sitting in it but I'll get some more pics for you. I had originally planned on using a cleveland so I was making room for it. Once I got the block and heads back on the engine stand I got to notice how much heavier it was than a windsor motor I decided to stick with a windsor. It should definitely make engine access easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Well the next saga in "Next problem please". I purchased one of Zray's awesome crossmembers to install in my car and discovered a couple of problems. The first one is the Ridetech centerlink that bolts to the factory centerlink doesn't seem to pull up snug against the factory centerlink.

Idler arm end:



Pitman arm end:



Then the interference with the crossmember:



The bolt that is interfering with the crossmember is actually the stud that the inner tie rod end mounts on so this could be problematic. I've contacted Ridetech to see what their solution is but I'm a little concerned as the interference problem also exists with the factory crossmember. If I have to re-engineer the crossmember it'll have to wait until I can get the engine and trans setting in it to make sure I don't create interference problems in other areas.

On the plus side I had some time to finish cutting out the inner fender on the right rear to clear the 27/14/16 slicks I'm using to dummy up the rear clearances. The tires I'll be using are actually a little narrower in section width so I am assured plenty of clearance.
 

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The first one is the Ridetech centerlink that bolts to the factory centerlink doesn't seem to pull up snug against the factory centerlink.
Isn't that a tapered hole, or is it drilled out for a bolted joint ? You could cut the taper deeper to get the nut to thread deeper for a cotter pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Isn't that a tapered hole, or is it drilled out for a bolted joint ? You could cut the taper deeper to get the nut to thread deeper for a cotter pin.
It's tapered. I just want to confirm that the two are supposed to pull up snug and if so can they tell me the actual taper so I can purchase the proper reamer to clean up the hole with. I've tried taking problems like this to machine shops in the past and have found they are a lot less critical of the fit than I would be so unless I can provide full on engineering specs for them to follow I'll do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Just received my roller idler arm from Opentracker, great people to deal with by the way! Got it bolted into place and dummied up the center link with the Ridetech components and all looks good there and it's nice to see both front tires turn when you turn the steering wheel. Working with Zray and Ridetech on the cross member interference and it occurs with the factory cross member as well as Zray's. According to Ridetech I'm the first person to report this problem although I may be the first person that it bothered. It's hard to believe that a system as well engineered as this requires removing a cross member designed to reduce chassis flex! I'll have to work that out once I can drop an engine in it.


Next concern is the turn radius with the Ridetech components. I can't really take the car out and drive it in circles yet to measure it myself but the steering travel seems to be a lot less than with the factory components. Not much angle on the front tires at full lock but I'll just have to wait for a response from them or take it out and drag it around in circles and measure it myself.


As it sits the steering input is somewhat akin to a formula car, just over one turn full lock to lock! Although to be fair I'm using the Borgeson conversion for power steering and have a 1.5 to 1 steering reducer installed.
 

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It's hard to believe that a system as well engineered as this requires removing a cross member designed to reduce chassis flex!
What makes you think it's well engineered, because they said so ? I would argue that it's not if they didn't account for the cross member.
 
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