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Discussion Starter #101
No offense but this thread is like a huge advertisement for Street or Track, Global West, TCP... basically anyone who is not Ridetech. Looks like you got it worked out and I hope it works great on the track.

No offense taken but I'm not tracking. . . . The only real issue I've seen is the lack of the under engine brace and having not asked them about it I don't know what their thoughts are on it. Other than that it's been typical little glitches you'll see with a project like this. Or maybe it's something else?
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Been working on the brake pedal installation. Lots of fun to temp it into place enough that I can try the pedal comfort and action but still be able to move it around until the position is ideal.


Using a piece of angle iron to try and approximate the position.




Looking forward from the seat.





Foot position looks good.





Cutting out a lot of the intermediate work brings us to approximately this:





I need to redo the mount for the steering ratio improver ( don't know the right description, it's not a doubler as that would be too much) and then I can finish off the mount install. Another step forward! Heading out in a few to pick up the rotating assembly for the 393 stroker that may be going into this..
 

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Discussion Starter #107
The finished pedal mount:








Finished the bracket up and pulled the front suspension back off so I can look at the Boss 302 Shock Tower reinforcement kit to see if it's going to get used after all these years. The towers are in good shape but the extra reinforcement will definitely be worthy of installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
What is that front brake setup? Who made the brackets?

The spindles are RideTech components based on F body Camaro, don't know what year it's based on but it is set up for C5 Corvette brake components. The brake brackets, etc are from Kore 3 although any manufacturer that has brakes for an F body will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
After investigating the Boss 302 shock tower reinforcement mod I've decided that it's going to be a no go. The kit I purchased MANY moons ago fits so poorly that it would be easier to start from scratch and build the kit myself. I'm just about to the point where I need to paint the underside, interior and engine bay then I can run the various lines and drop the car back on the ground. I need to flip a coin and decide if I'm going to freshen up the old 351 that always served so well or commit completely to the 393. I'll have to dig into strokers some more and figure out which cam and heads will optimize the stroker combination. I want to see 500/500 on they dyno when it's done. This "might" actually move under its own power before the snow flies!!
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Spent yesterday building the framework to hold the fuel cell in. It's an 8 gallon cell that is one of the few remnants of my last autocross car that last saw duty just over 20 years ago. Of course the rubber seals have degraded so new ones are on order and should be here in the next day or two so in the meantime I'll get the mount completed. I just want it to drop into the existing fuel tank opening, move it as far forward and to the right as possible without cutting sheetmetal and incorporate the mount for the Holley Blue fuel pump. I mounted it in such a way as to prevent the sump of the tank from dragging the ground under various conditions which it did once before while running on a street course in Copperas Cove Tx.


From the right rear:





From center rear:





Left rear:







Looking up from underneath.








Another shot from underneath with the mounting plate for the fuel pump.





From above with the cell dropped in.





This shots essentially finished showing the straps to hold it in place and the fuel pump mount. I'll lay a piece of sheetmetal over the framework and then have the whole thing powdercoated red.





I'm trying to decide if I'm going to run a single fuel line to the front or also run a return line off of the pressure regulator. I've never had a problem with return fuel in the past but if there's a chance that I install injection on it one day it's easy and cheap to do it all at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
I drug the old racecar motor out of the bowels of the shop last weekend, pulled the plugs and shot them full of WD and sprayed a bunch into the exhaust ports. Went back out a couple of days later and crossed my fingers as I applied some torque to the crank bolt and it spun freely (rock woot dude here). I did pickle it VERY well when I pulled it out some 20 years ago but still, it's been sitting on a storage stand for 20 years so I had envisioned the worst.


I pulled the valve covers, intake and oil pan and was surprised how clean the internals were. True it only has about 40 hours of total run time on it but 90% of that time was WFO! Even the machine shop remarked how clean and good shape it was all in so hopefully we're just talking rings and bearings for the shortblock. The heads on the other hand are box stock J302's that were purchased back when they were the only aluminum head offering for the 5 liter and since nobody in the area I lived in at the time were familiar with then I chose to leave alone.


I'm going to have them port match the heads and intake and do the same on the exhaust side. I had considered going to a more contemporary head design but decided to wait on that until I start putting the 393 together. This combination dynoed in the mid 430 range 20 years ago so I'm hoping the head work and intake change will push it over 450.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Been working on isolating the trunk area from the passengers compartment per rules. I made poster board patterns of the package tray area and the fiberboard that goes behind the backseat.


Package tray:





Diamond plate fitted:





Didn't get a picture of the pattern for the back board but you get the idea. Here's the two pieces laying in their approximate locations:





I welded some light angle iron at the part line, haven't decided if I'm going to rivet them together or tack weld them. I don't foresee having to remove the divider so it may just get tacked.





From the front with clamps holding them together:





More forward motion!
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Sure does make it easier to get to the pumpkin! I believe I'm going to go with the moser thru bolt aluminum pumpkin with 488's and a locker, it'll save 15 pounds of unsprung weight and that's a great thing! I'd love to go to a full floater set up on the rearend, they're more amicable with rear camber, a lot easier to pull the pumpkin, better load bearing capacity on the wheel bearings. Braking components will be lighter than the factory Versailles setup on my car. Lots to love!


 

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Discussion Starter #115
No progress on the racecar this weekend; we spent it working on preparation for installation of a two post lift. We laid everything out and drilled the first hole not knowing how thick the slab was and blew thru the bottom at 4". Per the instructions the slab must be at least 4" thick and the anchor hole needs to be at least 6" deep. IKR? Translated from chinese no doubt. We're going to pour a 4'X4' slab 12" thick under each lift but first you have to cut and remove the existing slab. What a mess!



The semi'finished prep; dug down about 14", pea gravel added to bring it up to minimum 12" thick slab and rebar added maximizing the locations near anchor points to increase strength.



We created a template of the base with all anchor points to overlay the rebar grid to confirm We'll be able to drill the anchors where necessary without hitting rebar.



Just a different angle with the template in place.



We're scheduled to get the concrete work done next week weather permitting of course. We're also doing some sidewalk and patio work at the same time. No rest for the wicked right?
 

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Looking solid! I miss having a shop big enough for a two post 😣. Love what youre doing with this build. You have definitely given me some ideas in the realm of structural bracing. Keep it up, love seeing your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Delivered the concrete yesterday;

One down:



Two's a charm:



Now to be patient and let it cure for a month before drilling the anchors. I'm going to go ahead and get everything set in place and get it all wired up in a couple of weeks though. Now hopefully, back to our regularly scheduled work on the car itself.
 

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Looks good, you consider embedding the anchors in the wet concrete? Too concerned about alignment?
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Looks good, you consider embedding the anchors in the wet concrete? Too concerned about alignment?

Exactly. I've done that type of job at work in the past but in this instance the tolerance is too close for the anchors and posts. I would have liked to have used "L" anchors but with 14" of concrete I'll be drilling the anchors down deeper than the 4" minimum the manufacturer recommends. When we FINALLY get around to doing our flag pole it will be getting embedded "L" anchors.
 
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