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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone use the CPP (classic performance parts) front suspension with the mini subframe kit? It eliminates the strut rod and adds a "subframe" that seems like it would help to strengthen the nose a bit?

Price is good too....

My stock suspension is toast, and its not much more than stock to get both upper and lower tubular control arms and the subframe thing....

Just wondering the opinions of the hive!

EDIT: link to the kit I am referring to

1967 68 69 70 FORD MUSTANG CPP MINI SUBFRAME KIT UPPER & LOWER A ARMS | eBay
 

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I've got it, but it's still sitting in the box and haven't got my car far enough to put it in. I did some reading up on it and you'll get the usual love it or hate it responses. I needed to replace everything anyways so I thought it was a good value for what I'm using it for!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats exactly what I was thinking, better than stock, but good value. My stock stuff is toast, so I need to do something, and its only a little more than new stock stuff
 

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I've installed it on my 65 Coupe. Kit is well thought out and installs straight forward. It does stiffen the front end.
I used Ride Tech coil-overs with this kit.
I have not driven the car yet.

The issue I had with the kit was I need to purchased some tapered sleeves for the ball joints.

FYI, If you are interested, I have their quick-steer power steering kit available. (PM me if you are interested.
 

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Exhumed this from the grave. I too am curious on what people's thoughts are having ran this for a while.
 

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I have been looking at the kit for a while as well. In fact I haven't installed the strut rod brackets yet because of that. If I can eliminate the strut rod and put in a rear LCA I will be much happier. If you are starting with a car like mine then the price of their kit and others can be very price competitive to going with stock stuff.

I am not too far from making a front suspension decision myself and have been looking for others that have used the kit. They can't be too bad as it's easier to find bad reviews on products than good ones.

That said summer is here as today is our first 90* day so car work weather is coming to an end as I don't have enough AC in the shop to keep me happy. Not to mention the pollen is really bad. My allergies are so bad my eyes are pouring water to where it's hard to see.
 

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This design is going to bind worse than cheese in your grandma.
I don't see any binding issues. It just gives the car the SLA front suspension it should have had when new. It's not really any different than any other SLA other than the ball joint being further to the rear joint. It basically replaces the strut rod with an arm with a rotating bushing which doesn't bind like the factory strut rod bushing. It's also quite a bit stronger of a system than the stock one.
From the pictures they are using the regular circle track suspension parts which use a delrin bushing which rotate very well.
 

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Is it track proven? It's non-adjustable. It has binding bushings just like stock. The two-piece lower arm on a Mustang functions as a one-piece lower arm, this kit is basically same as stock but looks different. Learn how these suspensions work and what a 65-70 Mustang needs to handle well and you will see this kit does not offer that.
 

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Don't care if it's track proven and most won't. Those bushings if they are what I think they are are very low friction so no real binding there unlike the stiffness of a strut rod bushing short of spending $400+ to fix that part alone. There would be less friction with an SLA suspension with delrin bushings.
The one thing the stock system offers is lots of room to make up for sloppy assembly at the factory. The benefit of this particular one is a stronger arm with less friction since it doesn't use rubber bushings. The drawback to it is that you don't have any adjustability of the lower ball joint front to rear to make up for sloppy assembly so with this kit your LCA points have to be dead on where they should be.

If you are starting from replacing everything up front and don't like strut rods and your LCA mounts are in the right place it isn't a bad choice. The big drawback I see is not being able to adjust the lower ball joint front to rear to make up for positioning issues that come from the factory, replaced sheet metal and sagging and damage over time. They could put joints on the end of the arms and make up for that but not at the price they sell it for.

I'm used to larger cars with much beefier front suspensions where as the mustang was very light duty and makes me think of little european cars of the time. The small size of the stock mustang spindles have always scared me a little. I don;t like the stock suspension on the mustang but it is much better than what was on the trucks of the same time. I have a friend with many of them and I did a 69 f100 and wow are they something else to drive.
 

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I guess if you want a setup that reinvents the wheel to handle worse than adjustable strut rods and 1" swaybar, go for it. At $690 or whatever it is now it'd probably come in about the same price as a full stock rebuild with Moog LCAs, any of the aftermarket adjustable strut rods and a 1" swaybar. Either way it does not address shocks, springs or perches, which end up being stock style anyway. I just don't see the point except "just because."
 

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This design is going to bind worse than cheese in your grandma.
lol no it does not at all, you are clueless !

i have it, mine is modified with double adjustable coilovers mounted on the lower arm. modified the upper arms. the bushings that come in the kit are unlike any bushing i have ever used. they are solid bushing, there is no flex in them. they are naturally greasy material too. the suspension artuculated perfectly requiring very little effort to cycle it through the entire range. this design put the lower arm on a single pivot line. which means no change in caster when it cycles, unlike the strut rod design which forces the spindle forward and rearward as it cycles
 

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I guess if you want a setup that reinvents the wheel to handle worse than adjustable strut rods and 1" swaybar, go for it. At $690 or whatever it is now it'd probably come in about the same price as a full stock rebuild with Moog LCAs, any of the aftermarket adjustable strut rods and a 1" swaybar. Either way it does not address shocks, springs or perches, which end up being stock style anyway. I just don't see the point except "just because."
You get tubular control arms and eliminate all the rubber bushings for a very good price.
How does it handle worse than adjustable strut rods? Is the LCA not adjustable in this kit?
 

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You get tubular control arms and eliminate all the rubber bushings for a very good price.
How does it handle worse than adjustable strut rods? Is the LCA not adjustable in this kit?
he is just bashing something blindly because it is not the brand of choice on here. yes the lower arm is adjustable for caster. up to i think 6 degrees is what i found . the kit can provide up to 5 degrees camber which is impossible with the stock setup. btw under a normal travel cycle this kit only produces very little caster change from full droop to full compression. my stock setup was about 4 degrees of caster change because the lower arm and the strut are on two different pivot points. additionally when you add in the flex of the strut rod bushing under load, i bet the caster change is up to 6-8 degrees lol. the stock design is **** lol.
 

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Was looking at it and thinking on it further and too bad no one has taken that kit with the LCA and then found a strut/spindle from another car to put on top of it. That would give you a modern style suspension. You are half way there with their kit.

Any time you can replace a strut rod with a real control arm its a good thing. Strut rods travel in an arc which is bad no matter how you sugar coat it. I remember the old films(as in roll of film) showing how they move and the issues inherit to the design back when I went to school to be a tech. I also remember the driveshaft ones that illustrated the speed differences at angles.
 

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Was looking at it and thinking on it further and too bad no one has taken that kit with the LCA and then found a strut/spindle from another car to put on top of it. That would give you a modern style suspension. You are half way there with their kit.

Any time you can replace a strut rod with a real control arm its a good thing. Strut rods travel in an arc which is bad no matter how you sugar coat it. I remember the old films(as in roll of film) showing how they move and the issues inherit to the design back when I went to school to be a tech. I also remember the driveshaft ones that illustrated the speed differences at angles.
i have done that. a coil over mounted on the lower arm of this kit. was very simple to do. i talked with the engineer at cpp about doing this and he gave me all the info i needed to make sure it would be safe. way improved shock motion ratio ( which greatly improves shock effectiveness) also needs less spring rate to do the same job.
i haveit all in my build thread with lots of details on the specs this kit allows. i initially wanted to cut off the bushings and weld in threaded bungs and rod ends, but the bushings are much nicer than i anticipated i decided to keep them lol
 

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Was looking at it and thinking on it further and too bad no one has taken that kit with the LCA and then found a strut/spindle from another car to put on top of it. That would give you a modern style suspension. You are half way there with their kit.

Any time you can replace a strut rod with a real control arm its a good thing. Strut rods travel in an arc which is bad no matter how you sugar coat it. I remember the old films(as in roll of film) showing how they move and the issues inherit to the design back when I went to school to be a tech. I also remember the driveshaft ones that illustrated the speed differences at angles.
CPP sells very similar kits for Nova. The early Nova had a very similar front suspension to compact Fords. AMC had the same basic design too. Mustang suspension upgrades have been used on AMCs with mods. I think CPP may use the same control arms and similar "plates" under many cars. The picture below is a Chevy Nova kit.
 
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