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Crank but no start 65 Mustang 289 Convertible EFI

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1965 Mustang Convert
289 V8
Holley Sniper EFI Holley Sniper EFI 550-851 Holley Sniper EFI 2300 Self-Tuning Kit - Classic Gold Finish
HOLLEY IN-TANK RETROFIT FUEL MODULE - 255 LPH
New battery
New ignition module
Post EFI Fuel Filter


Car has been doing this off/on recently where it runs drives I park and wont start. Cranks but wont start
Confirmed:
I have spark
(you can hear crank no start)
Gas in tank and a little wet gas around EFI module under air filter
Not sure best way to confirm gas is getting to engine?
Starter is new
Solenoid is new

What are next steps to troubleshoot? should I check the post EFI fuel filter for clogs? I have not changed that since install in 2018 (its mounted on frame)

Ive attached some photos I took today of parts on the car and some EFI screens. Im new to this so details please if offering suggestions. Thank you. MD

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed?

-Shannon
Im kind of wondering if replacing the filter in my post fuel filter but Im wondering why the arrow of flow points back to the tank? Does it sound like engine isn't getting gas? The youtube video I have above allows you to hear the crank. Assume it wouldnt hurt to replace the filter?

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Battery is brand new and tests at 12.66 when not cranking.
On the display of your Holley above, it shows battery voltage @ 10.5, highlighted in RED.
It's telling you there's a problem.

Put a battery charger on it or get the ECU directly connected to the battery. YHou have a voltage drop somewhere if your battery is 12.6VDC
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On the display of your Holley above, it shows battery voltage @ 10.5, highlighted in RED.
It's telling you there's a problem.

Put a battery charger on it or get the ECU directly connected to the battery. YHou have a voltage drop somewhere if your battery is 12.6VDC
12.66 when testing with a multi meter. I show 14.4+ when car is running. I have a battery tender but battery is less then two weeks old and same issue was happening randomly before I replaced the battery. Worth a shot.
 

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Hopefully you've also posted over in the Holley EFI forum, that's where the best expertise on this subject can be found. You can have spark but no RPM signal being recognized by the ECU, no signal no fire. Good luck!!
 

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Not enough info yet, but some clues. None of these may be the issue, and are generic to EFI, but are signs to follow. Video colors and frame-rate are poor online, but what sparks I can see are not confidence-building in color or consistency. Check and test your signal wiring connections (coil(-) or sensor). Verify your crank timing matches the program timing (if controlled) or distributor timing with a timing light.

Your injector pulse width is large, at about 10x what should be typical. This may be a tune corruption, or photo during a throttle movement, or other factor I can't see from here. Cold enrichment is only 117% (17% above normal), so it's not that. [EDIT] Disconnect and blow though the return hose. Max restriction is ±3 psi, about what you can do with your lungs. Don't breathe or suck in. :rolleyes:

I can't see your throttle position, but with EFI you either don't touch the pedal for starting, or floor it and hold if flooded to disable injectors. You can use this flood-clear function to test for over-rich or flooded condition, by holding the pedal on the floor, then cranking to clear fuel. Do not move the pedal when cranking, or more fuel will inject. If the engine tries to fire, or the AFRs show clearing, it's going in the right direction. Let the starter cool for a minute, then repeat until it fires.

If possible, I would let it sit a while or overnight (on battery charger) before trying this, in order to let the fuel clear naturally first. After several attempts, but no joy, release the pedal fully while still cranking. If it pops, sputters or jumps but won't start, it was flooded, cleared, and re-flooded. Solve the flooding issue.

Look for other signs of fueling, good injection pattern in the bores, rapid loss of pressure (bad ragulator or stuck injector), and so on. More clues help to focus the effort. Read-up on reviewing and saving your tune (Global Configs), clearing the ECM, and reloading in-case it has corrupted. The Holley forums can hit you with lots of pre-prepped info easier than we can. Post your progress!
 

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1970 Sportroof Mustang Grabber Value Package
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That pressure reading has nothing to do with gas pressure supplied to the Sniper . Your bet bet is to install an electronic fuel pressure gas inside where you can see the pump pressure to the Sniper, it's got to be approx 59 psi . The gauge from glowshift works great .

Charge the battery, get someone to help you. Look down the Sniper while you have them turn the switch on only ,you should hear the pump start up & stop when its pressurized ,you should also see the Sniper deliver the fuel prime squirt into the eng .

When you turn the key on the handheld should light up with all the info, if it goes off at any time during trying to.crank it that's a bad problem as the system will be rebooting . It's got to.have a constant 12 v supply ign on & starting . Got to have a 12 volt or better charge on the battery .

I read a lot about the filter in the pressure regulator getting full of crap. Your tank & pump look to be a good install .
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A lot of the Sniper issues are diretley tied to improper wireing or o2 sensor problems caused by exhaust system leaks .The 2300 on the 200 in my 67 has been fine for the most part other than o2 problems from exhaust leaks .

Look on the Holley Sniper forum .lots of info on there with some pretty smart people . You have to just look over all the I hate that piece of crap Sniper people .

I've had mine on close to 3 years & no way I would take it off to put a carb back on .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not sure if this would have any impact but the - side of my battery goes down to a ground attached to the engine block. This cable is showing exposed wires. The end of the cable is a loop where multiple items are grounding there with a bolt into the block. Assume I should correct this with a new end? Could this be causing the/any issue?

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