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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 89 5.0 in a '65. I converted it to a v belt system--alternator and the Classic Auto Air add on system. Trouble is I cannot get the crank pulley-an original '65 3 groove crank pulley, to line up with the water pump pulley(an original '65 two groove pulley). I am about .130" off--such a little amount makes quite a difference! All the spacers that are available are at least .250", and my machine shop(great bunch of guys) looked at one of these spacers and said they couldn't machine it down, because then the pulley register(circular indentation) would be gone. I went to NPD, and bought fancy aluminum (and expensive) pulleys for a '65, still same problem. I am using a Romac balancer with the early 65-69 hub width--3 inches. Finally, one machine shop guy said it could be due to the fact that my 5.0 motor's crank sprocket is slightly thinner than one for a 289, hence, my '65 water and crank pulleys won't line up--that's his guess. The water pump is a Stewart for 65-69 Ford small V-8. Machine shop used a Rollmaster timing set made for 85-93 5.0. Maybe we should have used a different one? So, as it is I can't run the brand new motor because we can't figure out how to get these pulleys to line up, and still utilize the all important crank pulley registering lip that is built into 65-68 289/302 crank pulleys to center pulley on balancer :confused: . I am stumped, never had this happen before on an engine rebuild, but without those pulleys lining up, no going forward. Any thoughts/possible solutions would be appreciated. Happy New Year.
 

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I take it that your crank pulley is 0.130" inside your water pump pulley. What might work is take your balancer and have a machine shop take 0.120" off the back of it where it touches the timing gear and then use the 0.250" spacer on it. Should match right up then. Just make sure you have the room to have the balancer cut and it will not hit anything.
 

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I'm not sure which way your misaligned?..When I put my 408 together I had about a .250 mismatch on the pulleys(crank pulley too far forward)Since I was using a new to me combination I thought I had the wrong pulleys and searched high and low for some that would line up. ..I finally had a machine shop machine some off the rear of my balancer to bring things back inline...I agree this was a very frustrating problem to correct.
 

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Your post is a little confusing as to whether the crank pulley is too far forward or if your water pump pulley is. Here is another idea, instead of adding spacers, why don't you take the aluminum water pump pulley to a machinist and have them cut a little off of it? Or the reverse, take a little off your water pump where the pulley meets the face of the pump? Good luck and make sure you let us know what works!
 

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I have adjusted countless V belts by either changing out the spacer behind the waterpump pulley, changing the water pump pulley (have a box with 20+ pulleys in it, and there are countless offsets between mounting face and sheaves) or using a couple washers between the pulley and the spacer.

I bought a 66 Mustang cheap one time that had a crank pulley through the windshield. Guy had become so frustrated trying to get it to line up, bought multiple cranks and waterpumps, etc. he finally lost it.

I used to help out a local hot rod shop that when they went to put AC on a small block ford, they would call me to bring out the pulley box, and fix them up. Between Cast iron and steel crank pulleys, 3 and 4 bolts, power or no power steering, etc, they just decided it was easier to let me line up the belts. Part of the deal was I got all the old pulleys off the engines to go into the box.
 

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Pulley hell. If all else failos, take a look at Ford Motorsports catalog for their crank damper. It is drilled for both 3 and 4 bolt pulleys and has the locater ring machining. It lined up with my stock 69 WP and ALT pulleys.

I once had a David Bannister/Hulk scenario myself twenty years ago-I was tightening something on my Trans Am with a 1/2 drive ratchet and it slipped, opening a gash in my knuckles on a SS radiator clamp. I spun around and threw the ratchet in no particular direction (what a jerk!) as hard as I could. It probably was 70MPH or so and it went right THROUGH my father's garage door that had to be 50 feet away. Not the glass, one of the square wooden sections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry guys, I forgot to add that the crank pulley is about .130" in too far--doesn't stick out far enough to line up with water pump pulley. I even tried a two groove pulley for a '66 289 that I just bought from a forum member, and same thing. It's good to know I am not alone with respect to having this difficulty--it sure shuts down progress until it's resolved. Perhaps the best solution is to do what mod9 suggested-get an accurate measurement of how much the pulley needs to come out, say .130", and then subtract that from the .250" that the spacer will add, and grind .120" off of back of damper hub. I don't think it will cause the damper to hit anything, I just hope it won't goof up the 50 oz. imbalance factor that I need for the motor to stay in balance, by machining off, say, .120" off the end of the damper hub? Thanks for the help, and I sure wish I could look through MustangerBob1's pulley box. By the way, I don't care how cold and snowy it gets here in Mid-Michigan, God willing, I am going to get this Shelby clone on the road by this April. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Machine shop told me spacer cant be machined, as it will effectively eliminate the circular indentation built into it that is used as a register to locate the pulley dead center on the damper assembly.
 
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