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Discussion Starter #1
Hey! I have 2 questions so please bear with me.
I have a 66 mustang with the 200ci engine. I've just about finished the restoration so I decided to take her out for a test drive. Going about 40mph the car just cuts off and about a second later it came back on like nothing happened. A few seconds later it cut off again but wouldn't come back on while cranking it for about 15 seconds. It started right up when I used some gasoline to prime the carb and then it stated running. Prior to testing it I had replaced the coil, fuel line, fuel tank, fuel filter, had the timing done and fixed the vacuum line. There is a small leak in the vacuum advance diaphram but I am not too sure that would effect the car while staying at a constant speed. I also just rebuilt the carb and it is the autolite 1100. Are there any thoughts on this? I think the issue is fuel, either the carb emptied or got flooded.

My second question is in the picture I attached, is that blocked off valve important? I think it is supposed to run to the PVC, but I am not sure.
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That blocked off port is usually the PCV valve. Normally the PCV valve is stuck into the back of the valve cover. I think 66 would be too late to have the old road draft tube.

Do you have a filter on your fuel pump? I don't see one on the carb so it's possible you've got some junk in there clogging it up.

Just cutting off like that without sputtering sounds more like electrical to me (not that I'm an expert). Make sure the wires are good and tight on your coil and the distributor. Just a thought.
 

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First, fix those two obvious issues (PCV and Vac leak). Assuming you are running points, check the points condition, looking for excessive pitting. Replace the condenser and set the points to specs. Also, there is a tiny copper wire between the points and the distributor connector on the side, insure this is not broken and is terminated correctly.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
That blocked off port is usually the PCV valve. Normally the PCV valve is stuck into the back of the valve cover. I think 66 would be too late to have the old road draft tube.

Do you have a filter on your fuel pump? I don't see one on the carb so it's possible you've got some junk in there clogging it up.

Just cutting off like that without sputtering sounds more like electrical to me (not that I'm an expert). Make sure the wires are good and tight on your coil and the distributor. Just a thought.
I do have a fuel filter, it is just inline in between the fuel pump and fuel tank. My engine did come from an earlier model and does have theroad draft tube. Is it worth it to remove the breather on top of my valve cover and replace it with a PVC that runs to the bottom of the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First, fix those two obvious issues (PCV and Vac leak). Assuming you are running points, check the points condition, looking for excessive pitting. Replace the condenser and set the points to specs. Also, there is a tiny copper wire between the points and the distributor connector on the side, insure this is not broken and is terminated correctly.
I checked the points and they look pretty good. I am hopefully going to get that vacuum leak fixed this week when the part comes in. Is the PVC pretty necessary or is it fine to keep blocked off?
 

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It sounds electrical. Make sure all the wiring connections are tight and the coil is properly mounted. I forgot to tighten the coil bracket once and the coil would move around and occasionally ground out the wiring. check ground wire, wires to and from the coil and distributor. Check for look ignition wires especially on the coil and distributor.

You may have a sticking needle valve or float. When the car dies, take off the air cleaner and look down the carb while moving the throttle linkage to full. You should see a good squirt of fuel. If no the carb is empty.

remove the road draft tube and switch to PCV. It’s better for the environment and smalls better too. What is the black stuff that looks like it is running down the valve cover. Could be paint, but looks like oil from the breather cap. That would be a sign of back pressure in the system. PCV will help this, but could be a sign of leaking rings.
 

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First, I would replace the fuel pump. ITs always good to have a new fuel pump on a motor, the rubber gets old - one relatively cheap thing to keep you from being on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck. I would get into the carb float bowl and see if there is crud in there. Did you replace the fuel tank, have you been in it to see what condition it is in? Once they rust inside they become a constant source of crud in the system. One other point of failure on these is the distributor where the wire from the points goes through the housing. There are fiber washers and a plastic insulator to keep the screw where the wire from the coil attaches from grounding on the case as it passes from outside to inside the dizzy. That one will drive a guy NUTZ!!!

It is best to have the fuel filter downstream of the fuel pump. If you can find one, the best fuel pumps have a removable glass before it with a water / crud separator that can be cleaned easily. Its just a screen that catches the big stuff, anything smaller likely won't hurt the fuel pump and will get caught in the filter before the carb.

If it has a ground breather, leave it for now till you get this solved. Then if you have a consistence regarding the environment, AND if you drive the car much, put in a PVC system and block the vent. Fix or plug the hose to the vacuum advance, the car will run lean with the air leak and likely not idle right. In the end, you're better off WITH the vacuum advance.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It sounds electrical. Make sure all the wiring connections are tight and the coil is properly mounted. I forgot to tighten the coil bracket once and the coil would move around and occasionally ground out the wiring. check ground wire, wires to and from the coil and distributor. Check for look ignition wires especially on the coil and distributor.

You may have a sticking needle valve or float. When the car dies, take off the air cleaner and look down the carb while moving the throttle linkage to full. You should see a good squirt of fuel. If no the carb is empty.

remove the road draft tube and switch to PCV. It’s better for the environment and smalls better too. What is the black stuff that looks like it is running down the valve cover. Could be paint, but looks like oil from the breather cap. That would be a sign of back pressure in the system. PCV will help this, but could be a sign of leaking rings.
Thanks, when I switch to PVC would I still need a breather like the road draft tube? Or would the only thing going to the valve cover be the PVC? I have another valve cover that might have both openings if that is what is needed. That black stuff on the calve cover is just paint, there hasnt been any leaking so far
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First, I would replace the fuel pump. ITs always good to have a new fuel pump on a motor, the rubber gets old - one relatively cheap thing to keep you from being on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck. I would get into the carb float bowl and see if there is crud in there. Did you replace the fuel tank, have you been in it to see what condition it is in? Once they rust inside they become a constant source of crud in the system. One other point of failure on these is the distributor where the wire from the points goes through the housing. There are fiber washers and a plastic insulator to keep the screw where the wire from the coil attaches from grounding on the case as it passes from outside to inside the dizzy. That one will drive a guy NUTZ!!!

It is best to have the fuel filter downstream of the fuel pump. If you can find one, the best fuel pumps have a removable glass before it with a water / crud separator that can be cleaned easily. Its just a screen that catches the big stuff, anything smaller likely won't hurt the fuel pump and will get caught in the filter before the carb.

If it has a ground breather, leave it for now till you get this solved. Then if you have a consistence regarding the environment, AND if you drive the car much, put in a PVC system and block the vent. Fix or plug the hose to the vacuum advance, the car will run lean with the air leak and likely not idle right. In the end, you're better off WITH the vacuum advance.

Good luck
Thank you. I did take the car out last night to see if I could troubleshoot it further. Got to about 65 with no issues. I am thinking ot coukd have been a 1 time thing shutting off, but I am still going to move the fuel filter to the carb, add the PVC and change the fuel pump. I have not checked the inside of the fuel tank since installing, but after filling up yesterday I discovered a leak and am going to have to try and fix that again...
 

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Did you install a blue streak 1.5 ohm coil
Most parts guys will sell you the generic .85 ohm coil

I had nothing but cut out issues until Bart schooled me on coils
 

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Did you install a blue streak 1.5 ohm coil
Most parts guys will sell you the generic .85 ohm coil

I had nothing but cut out issues until Bart schooled me on coils
Yes, I just installed a blue streak resistor prior to taking it for the test drive. I am not too sure of its ohm rating though..
 

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Thanks, when I switch to PVC would I still need a breather like the road draft tube? Or would the only thing going to the valve cover be the PVC? I have another valve cover that might have both openings if that is what is needed. That black stuff on the calve cover is just paint, there hasnt been any leaking so far
Yes you need the breather to let clean air in and the PCV to pull fumes out.
 
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