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I've read posts that say v8 head bolts need that silicone goop on them when installed to prevent coolant leaks. Do I need it too? I rebuilt my cyl head a year ago (about 8000mi, daily driver) and now I'm losing a gallon or so of coolant every week or so, none through hose leaks or radiator. At the same time the engine's been missing on acceleration. I've decided to replace the head gasket tomorrow morning as the first time I may have gouged the gasket trying to lay the head on by my back breakin' self. Only girlfriend to help and she's strongly resisting.
Any install tips? I was going to clean the head bolts and use anti-seize compound and torque with a beam wrench in 5 stages per sequence. Can I use Aviation-Form-Gasket on the head gasket (Fel-Pro) even though it says not to? The head is milled flat but there's always been a weeping leak for the last 10 years.
 
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If your head was milled flat then it is probably your block that needs to be decked in order to correct the leakage. When you torque the head follow the instructions and sequence in the manual. You will only need to apply sealer to two bolts. The driver's side rear bolt and the passenger's side front bolt are the only two that pass into the water jacket on the 200.

Do not use any other type of sealer on the head gasket. You only need a drop on the threads of those two bolts even. Make sure you clean the deck and the head surface before the install. I like to clean everything with a little brake parts cleaner first. That stuff workd great to remove oil, carbon, water, and old gasket material.

John

[color:blue]'68 Coupe
250/C4, 221 Argentine Head
Breakaway Converter, 9", 3.50's/T-lock</font color=blue>
 

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As far as sealing the threads goes, it's not necessary as the bolt holes are blind and don't go into water.I would recommend using a light oil on the threads just to be sure that they don't gall as you torque them. And as for the head gasket, make sure the surfaces are clean and dry and use no sealer. Also, you might want to scrap that antique beam torque wrench and step up to a more modern,more acurate click type. I have seen the beam type be off as much as 15 ft. lbs. and that may also contribute to your problem.

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