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Discussion Starter #1
in case anyone is wondering, i was out of town for a week and have still not gotten that damper off of my I6. Im going to rent the puller again tomorrow and give it another go, but here's a pic of the setup from last time - was i doing something wrong? can anyone tell?
as you may recall, the thing wouldnt budge at all and i ended up stripping the threads on the puller bolt as well as my damper bolt inside threads(yow) on the crank.
also, i know to really grease up the puller bolt to prevent binding.
wish me luck?
mike o

http://mike-o.home.att.net/Mustang_Damper.gif


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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The pic looks like it's all set up right except for having the bolt in the crank for the puller to run up against like we talked about before.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

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Well, that's the right puller, and installed correctly. Are you sure that's not a washer we're looking at, though, in the center?

Try Doug's (I think it was Doug's) suggestion of putting a good socket on the end of the foot of the puller to put more surface area on the end of the crank. Try to use a socket just small enough to slide through the hole of the dampner.

Just remmber that the puller can only be pushing against the crank shaft. It's if it's pushing against the dampner, you are trying to break the iron instead of pull it off, and the puller is going to loose that battle.

DO NOT PRY ON IT. You mentioned that you did in the other thread. The outer ring will come off fairly easily with a little prying and then you get to rebuild the dampner on top of the other problems.

If you always do what you've always done,
You'll always get what you've always got

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like the puller threads are feeding into the crankshaft itself. Put something between the puler shaft and crank. i.e. grade 8 washer or socket

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What Johnpro said, but I'd use a cheap socket if you have one or a bigger end attachment on the puller. I think if you do that, you'll be surprised how easy it'll come off. Good luck!

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
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The end of the crankshaft also looks rusted. I would also spray some PB Blaster in there and let it 'percolate' for a while. Also do the other recommendations.


Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

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Discussion Starter #8
hal,
replying to an old post here, but with an update....
used your suggestions on pulling that damper-well, round two brought victory(eventually).
as i mentioned before, the first encounter with the puller stripped the first few threads in the crank snout. i bought a 5/8x18 tap and went for it. it worked and the bolt went back in!
i went ahead and sent the damper out to Damper Dudes for a rebuild since all the rubber was crusty.
now i can resume putting this thing back together!
thanks
mike o

[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>

http://mike-o.home.att.net/coupe.jpg
 
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