Vintage Mustang Forums banner

361 - 379 of 379 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #361
Still working on fender and door gaps/alignment.

Getting pretty close to calling it done. My plan is to get it to 90% and let the body shop worry about the last 10%. They'll knock out that 10% in a day and it will take me weeks.

After doing some welding/grinding/sanding, I put some primer on so it's all one color and I can see how the gap looks.







Have more work to do on the driver side door, so I'll tackle that soon. Then I need to do some filing of the bolt holes for the taillight buckets so they slide in. After that, I think I'm about ready to get some lizard skin sprayed inside and put a coating under the car (was going to use lizard skin for that too...but will do more research first) and I should be ready for it to go to a body shop
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #362
Progress on the driver side door gap. Still have some grinding to do, but I think I’m getting good at this part.

Anyone looking to hire Door Gap Dan? I don’t like this work, so I won’t come cheap. :)





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #365
Not much to report.
Going to use corvette filter regulator to manage fuel pressure for my efi setup, and mount it back by the tank (nice short return line).

Couldn’t find an aftermarket bracket that would match the curve of the trunk floor, so I made one. I had an extra rear torque box in my bin, so I cut that up and made it. The filter will be held in place with a hose clamp.

Got to put the engine back in the car so I can make sure my fuel lines don’t get too close to the headers since I want to run it up the firewall.

Sometimes when I get down on the project, it helps to do something like this to get back in the mood to get back at it.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,518 Posts
Pretty cool! What did you use to form the curve?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #368
I had a short section of 2” od roll bar tube so I used that and beat on it with a hammer to get it close. Then opened up the curve a bit so the 2 1/4” filter would fit. Did the same thing on the other end to get the curve right to match the floor.

All the wrong tools, so it was a PITA but it came out fine



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,518 Posts
Nice! I'm supposed to be getting a slip roll for Christmas, it won't handle the heavy gauge stuff but will do sheet metal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #371 (Edited)
Getting some things done before I get the car shipped out for paint.

Sprayed the underside with Lizard Skin this weekend. Going to do the interior after I order another bucket for the inside.





Gotta paint the 4 link brackets before the rear goes back in. Have a lot of taping to do to get the interior ready for spraying too.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Did you use the spray cans or a HVLP type setup? I am wanting to underspray my 66'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,566 Posts
I might hire you! Been working on mine, they look ok, seems like I could work on them forever and never be satisfied.

I plan to paint the car myself and reassemble it after. I'm trying to think of a way to get the doors back in the same spot after everything is painted. Seems like a potential daunting task with everything finished painted.

You have any thoughts on that? Leave the hinges on the car? On the door? One on the car, and one the door?


Progress on the driver side door gap. Still have some grinding to do, but I think I’m getting good at this part.

Anyone looking to hire Door Gap Dan? I don’t like this work, so I won’t come cheap. :)





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
737 Posts
An alignment method I have seen used is to drill 1/8" holes through the hinge and metal behind it in a couple of places. This provides a reference to permit reinstalling the hinge in the exact same position it was in before removal. I have never done this, but it makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
An alignment method I have seen used is to drill 1/8" holes through the hinge and metal behind it in a couple of places. This provides a reference to permit reinstalling the hinge in the exact same position it was in before removal. I have never done this, but it makes sense.

I’ve seen this on TV, but then, don’t you have a bunch of little holes all over? Seems odd to put so much time and attention to a build and then have weird random holes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,556 Posts
I sprayed epoxy primer under my hinges on the posts. Once I had everything aligned they will not be coming off. I plan on painting the door jams and the inside portion of the doors off the car then bolting the doors back on. I mask the door and jams off, you will have to look real hard to see a paint line. There are masking techniques for doing this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #378
As far as hiring me, come paint my car and I'll fly up to you and will line up your doors. Sounds like a fair trade. :)

I'm still spraying lizard skin sound control. Underside of the car is done.

I've got 2 coats on most spots inside. After work tonight, I'll hit the last few areas that need a second coat (roof, firewall behind the dash and part of rear quarters in the trunk) and then I'll be ready to spray the heat control.

I have a 2 gallon bucket of the ceramic spray, so I'll probably just focus on the floors, firewall and roof. If I have extra, I'll hit other spots on the interior...but I don't think that's going to be necessary.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Discussion Starter #379
All done spraying the lizard skin.

Not as easy to do as they show in the videos...but it looks great and I’m sure it will help a lot with sound and heat insulation.



The glossy section in the middle is still wet.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
361 - 379 of 379 Posts
Top