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Well, I guess I should have been a little more thorough in my explaining what was going on. I called the police and filed a report, the officer who came to the house has seen the car and knows what it looked like before. (his wife loves the car and pointed it out) He also knows the owner of the company so he went to the owner and told him he should contact me as there was damage to two cars. But that I was only concerned with fixing one. The second car was the Mach 1, which has cement (mixed and wet) splashed on it. I called my insurance company (collector car) and reported it yesterday. They had an adjuster here today and agreed to pay for paint and even added in time to remove and polish all chrome and glass on the car. The adjuster went heavy on the time because it is an original never restored car. He is sending a report to the company tomorrow and mailing out a copy to me. He said to take this to the body shop of my choice and have them look it over and if they have a problem with the amount to call him and he will work with them. So it looks like its going to be repainted, it won't be original anymore but will look a whole lot better. John
 

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Congrats! Sad to lose an original paint job, but great to get a first class new one.
 

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Do you know where that company is pouring cement next? My car could use a paint job.
hehe

congrats.
 

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I think that this situation is being approached all wrong. First try washing the car with a moderatly weak solution of muratic acid. That is how cement is removed from glass. I would test the same on the paint. Another thing for paint is simply rub it out.There is also a cleaning clay that is used to clean paint before it is buffed out. Any thing is better than the half backed paint job you will end up with.

Just my opinion Don
 

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I've been told that you can get a high end power washer and it will take hardened cement off of a car. If you can get the actual cement deposits off, you should be able to rub out the stains and keep th eoriginal paint. I would say try powerwashing and then sand out the car with 2000 grit, then 3000 grit paper, then polish with the heavy cut then fine cut Maguires polishing compounds, followed with a good wax. I used a 13 hp pressure washer to blow a cheap paint job off of most of my 65. The factor paint stayed on the car, just the cheap stuiff on top washed off. Original paint usually adds 15-20% to the valiue of your car. So, if you have to get a repaint, you should be compensated noty only fo rthe repair, but the permanent depreciated value of your car. Just some thoughts. good luck.
 

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Hmmmmm

I think that if they bodu shop will use Sikkens, PPG or Glasurit then you are in the clear......

Original paint is a nice thing to still have.....but.....a nice shiny paint job is a good makeover for a vintage ford.

on another note.....did you guys know it is illegal for manufacturers to paint sports cars brown in California? serious!!!! WHy do you think you don't see brown cadillacs? nissan Z cars or Brown mustangs?

It was a good laugh.

good luck with your stang!!!
 

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Acid on the glass ok, muratic on the chrome will induce rust, phosphoric is ok on chrome. If the concrete sat on the paint more than 20 minutes, it's too late, the lye has penetrated the pours of the paint and will show up in a couple of years. If they used calcium in the concrete (a drying agent), that's as bad a lye on the paint. Since the insurance agent is sympethetic, and you get your choice of shops, I doubt very, very much if the paint job will be crappy......it sounds like people are trying to make things right. (hmm, sounds like a young'in here with little experience or had a crappy insurance agent experience one time and didn't know the ins and outs). Sorry in advance, just an observation.
 
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