[Guest]

I need to replace my starter motor, and I was able to remove the bolts fairly easily. However, there isn't enough room to wriggle/twist/remove it. The AT fluid lines and steering linkages are pretty much in the way. So, I have to remove one of them first, right? (Duh!) Which would be better?

I would guess the AT lines, if I can easily drain and replace the fluid... Alternatively, I have to remove the ball joints, then have the alignment checked later...?

Any words of wisdom would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

 

[Guest]

I just dropped the steering linkage on the passenger side of the car and the starter dropped right out. I don't think I messed with the tranny lines at all. Good luck!
Phord

 

[Guest]

It just occured to me that my 351c has headers. I don't know if that makes a difference but I'll bet it does
Phord

 

[jimk351c]

I had the same problem when I still had my FMX automatic bolted to my 351C. I had to carefully push the tranny lines out of the way, but did not have to unbolt anything. Of course, now that I have a T5-Z, changing the starter is a snap

 

[Guest]

I tried again, and this time was a little more aggressive pushing the AT lines out of the way, and I got it out ok. I guess I didn't want to risk damaging them. Thanks for the encouragement!

I've been having starting problems similar to other postings, so I hope this fixes it. The C6 was rebuilt, and the neutral-start safety switch is a bit problematic, too.

 

[jimk351c]

Great! Are your headers ceramic coated? I've never had hot start problems with ceramic coated headers, but had it regularly with non-coated headers. If you have non-coated headers, consider some sort of heat shield for the starter. Summit Racing sells this.