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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, this may have been outlined on here somewhere, but the search function on this site is absolutely horrible...

What is the proper original factory physical appearance of the 64-66 headlight doors?

In 5 out of 10 1964-66 Mustangs I view online and see at shows, the passenger headlight door, the shape of the upper edge or “brow” appears to dip down towards front grille, while the right side appears to be “straight” with no “brow dip”.

On some 64-66’s, both headlight doors are straight at the tops, but then it seems that the front corners of the hood curveture don’t align to the headlight doors...

I can’t seem to grasp the thought that when restoring a 64-66 that folks either overlook this, don’t realize there is a difference in the headlight doors, don’t care the hood is not matching or that the parts vendors have been selling mismatched headlight doors for eons...

So what is the “original” factory look, did the left and right headlight doors not have the same “brow” from the actual tooling mold - or is that mismatched look from a restoration aspect just accepted?

Is there a specific vendor part to use for a matched set or are they not to be matched?

OCD OCD -symmetrical-not- OCD OCD.... LOL!!!

In my attached example is an image of an “original” 66 (per internet listing)... In the 2nd image I’ve outlined the visible differences in the passenger vs driver headlight doors when looking at the car straight on.
23C3F539-532B-43E5-9FD5-EC96CF33B782.jpeg
FD915336-6B35-42E4-99CF-A5F490621803.jpeg
 

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They should be symmetrical regardless of year. And I have seen restorations that screwed up things far worse than the headlight doors. Most, not all "64 1/2" cars had the eyebrow style. Later cars should not. Surely this has been screwed up more than once.

Heck, the first 1974 Vega GT I saw had such a mistake from the factory. The guy had the car maybe three days, and I asked why he had one chrome headlight door, and one black one. He walked around to the front and exclaimed "holy *!"
 

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Bring on the heat, the cut-off wheels, and the Muggyweld....
 

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I can’t seem to grasp the thought that when restoring a 64-66 that folks either overlook this, don’t realize there is a difference in the headlight doors, don’t care the hood is not matching...
And yet, this is exactly the case. The headlight doors are cast pot metal, and therefore so brittle that if they were bent in this area, they would likely crack/break.

It has more to do with the fact that there’s a lot coming together in that area from a panel alignment standpoint, and in most of these cars long histories, they were not lovingly and meticulously restored. They were slapped together for resale, poorly fixed after a fender bender, last dealt with by the young and/or inexperienced or simply messed with by someone who doesn’t have your discerning eye for OCD, uh, I mean... detail. Lol

I personally can’t be bothered that much. I smile at any classic on the road. It’s been a long, long time since I did any body or paint work on mine, and there are definitely details I missed when I was younger and dumber. Each one is part of the car’s personality now and I love those imperfections for that.
 

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the hood is too high on the drivers side and headlight bucket needs to come down a smiget after hood is leveled out-just look at the spaces above the fog lamps to get my view. Wes
 

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Check the part numbers on the back. There is a -A -B -C -D IMHO of old age brain, there is a difference in the angle of the point, The -A's work best with the 64 1/2 bezel.
 

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First off, the hood is slightly out of adjustment (side to side) and/or the driver's side fender. Also, you have to remember to adjust your headlights. The driver's side should point slightly down and straight ahead (to keep your headlight from pointing into the oncoming driver's eyes). The passenger side should be straight ahead and slightly to the right. Or, better yet, adjust the headlights according to the Factory Specs (especially if you've modified/changed suspension etc.).
 

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Let’s play a game, shall we? Anyone see a perfect match?
754178
 

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Maybe tomorrow-I think the left side pairs were Ford, the right side pair and single weren’t. That was just 2 milk crates of them up in the shop. I think I have as many or more down in the barn. I sent a box of them to Dan Babb to pick through for ones that fit, then he sent the rest back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good replies!

First, the pics are not of my car - it’s from the net where a dead on front view showed the variances in the headlight doors. I do realize the bumper and lower valence is skewed on that car (not part of the topic though).

Second - true, the headlight bulbs could be skewed as well - but again, a skewed headlight bulb does not equal the physical differences in the uppper brow of the headlight doors. The hood could also be (and is) skewed but still does not count for the physical appearance of the headlight doors.

@gt350sr

Excellent pic!! That also shows the visible differences in the top brow of the headlight doors! That image displays how a passenger side and driver side vary in the actual “mold” of the part.

Were the headlight doors to be totally symmetrical through all years (64-66), or was there a factory supplied part issue where as built, the wrong or slightly different headlight doors were used during original production?

So along with the headlight door discussion - was there a part revision or difference with the scalloped outer grille sheet metal that met both headlight doors? Or did this part stay the same from 64-66?
 

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@gt350srSo along with the headlight door discussion - was there a part revision or difference with the scalloped outer grille sheet metal that met both headlight doors? Or did this part stay the same from 64-66?
[/QUOTE]
That part of the assembly did not change.

As for the differences in the above doors, I have done wonders for them with a small soft plastic mallet. They are easy to bend, too easy. The inboard end gets bent inward, and the corners top and bottom pinch toward each other. Simply tightening the screws too much can do it.
 

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Here's the deal. There were two different parts. The early ones (1964-1/2's if you will) carried Part Number C4ZZ-13064-A (LH), and C4ZZ-13064-B (RH). Interestingly, the numbers cast into the back (Engineering or Assembly Line numbers) were C4ZB-A (LH) and C4ZB-13052-A (RH). Sometime before January of 1965 (most likely when "True" 1965 Production began), the Headlight Door Part Number became C5ZZ-13064-A ad -B. The casting numbers became C4ZBi13064-C (LH), and C4ZB-13052-C (RH).The "-C's" are what are on my November, 1965 built, 66 Mustang .
Interestingly, in Ford's OSI (Obsolete-Superseded-Interchange) Book, Ford did not give it a "r/b" (replaced by) designation, but a "mw"(mix with) designation. MW usually was used to designate a part that is not identical to the part it is replacing, but "will work".This could explain why one might see one of each on the 64-1/2's. In looking at the two side by side, they appear to be identical, but there are subtle differences.

Hope this helps.

Bob
 

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I took the best ones from the box I got from Ray (gt350r) and still cut and muggy-welded them to fit my car (which has aftermarket fenders and a fiberglass hood).

Before:


Cut:


After:


I probably obsess with this more than other guys...probably because I spent so much time getting mine to look good.
 

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I'll try to remember to get pics of the pn#s on mine when I get home. I know some must be aftermarket parts as they have non ford type stampings on them. I'm curious as per Bob's info now as to how many different factory part #'s I have. I'll probably find out there's a super rare (ie expensive) # from like a promo car or similiar...… and it's the one Dan took! lol Results and pics soon to follow! -J
 

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I forgot to mention that the early, "-A" ones had FoMoCo in the oval, and the later, "-C" ones had FoMoCo in the rectangle. Just so you know what to be looking for.

Bob
 

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Here are 3 of the SAME part number but all different. Whenever I see changes in items cast / molded / stamped. if could mean tooling or subcontract manufacturers have changed. Notice how 1 is crossways to the other 2, and the lack of detail on the 3rd one.

The -A and -C are the same side, and there is also a late Ford with no -letter at all. There is also blank (Repo ) and Ford part number (repo) ones out there.
 

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