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I have a 1966 coupe that came equipped with 4 wheel manual brakes with a single master cylinder. I purchased a stainless steel front disc brake conversion kit from mustangs plus with a dual master cylinder. The problem I have is that when i installed the new dual master cylinder, and went to install the hard line fromt the master cylinder to the distribution block i found that the size of the nuts arent the same. The size of the pre bent line is 3/8 and the size of the port on the distribution block that connected to the old single master cylinder is 7/16. Do i need to get a new distribution block? Or can I change the way the distribution block is arranged. If i understand the instructions correctly i should be disconectting the rear line from the distribution block and connecting it in line with the proportioning valve directly to the master cylinder. I should be able to put the line from the master cylinder into that port that was for the rear and block off the other one. Although i am not too keen on jury rigging the brakes like that. Is there a way around this or do i need to get a different distribution block?

Chris
 

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The 65/66 distribution block is just a common union for all of the ports. You could connect either of the front brake lines and the front MC line to *any* of the ports and get exactly the same result. There are male/female adapters that will step up or down (depending on your presepctive) a size or two. Buy one of these and a plug (for the port you don't use) and you are all set to go. (I myself would buy a dual circuit system's distribution block, but most do as you've done and just connect the rear line to the MC directly.

John Harvey
 

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If I understand you correctly, you are using the Drum plumbing on a Disc conversion. If that is correct, the recommended upgrade should include a Proportioning valve before the rear distribution block. This will allow you to adjust the bias (right word?) between the front and rear brakes to keep your fronts from locking up before your rears. Original disc cars had 2 blocks, one for the front and one for the rear that handled this "splitting" of the lines. The front block was the distribution valve. Today, there are adjustable valves that will allow you to "tune" your brakes for your preferences.

I would highly recommend that you separate your front and rear brakes, as that is what the Dual Master Cylinder is for - to keep some fluid in the line in the event one set of brakes goes out.
 

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John is correct. Most people, including me that do this swap have:

Unhooked the hard line going to the rear brakes from the distribution block under the hood and put a plug in that port.

Hook that hard line directly to an adjustable proportional valve.
Run a new line from the new master cylinder to the proportional valve.
Hook the other port on the new master cylinder back to the distribution block.

Personally I wasn't able to use any of my old lines in front, as they were just the wrong length to do anything with.

You can buy new hard line in various lengths at any autoparts store, along with adaptors and fittings to go from one size to another.

You'll need a tubing cutter, a tubing bender, and a double flaring kit to cut and shape the new lines for your hook up. They sell cheapies on these at autoparts stores. I bought mine online at Northern Tools.

Pay attention to what kind of fitting you are using. Remember that pipe threads need a little pipe dope or teflon tape. Flared ends NEVER should have any pipe dope or teflon tape.

Good luck and if in doubt post back with more quesitons!

Phil

p.s. I used the Wilwood kit with the TransAm booster assembly and documented it HERE if you're at all interested. Some of it will apply to your project.
 

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I installed the SSB system in the 66 Fastback. The port in the distribution block that fed the rear brakes was plugged. The input port in the distribution block that is fed by the master cylinder required a fitting (purchased locally) to reduce the thread size so that the supplied "master cylinder-to-distribution block" line could be fitted. I cannot understand why they didn't supply this reducing fitting in the kit. As others had stated, the rear brake port on the master cylinder (physically the most forward port on my master cylinder) connects directly to the input port on the proportioning valve. The output of the proportioning valve is where the rear line brake connects.
 

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Here are pictures of the SSB install complete.

Dual Chamber MC, larger bowl (rear) resovoir plumb into old distribution block for the front brakes, and Smaller bowl (front) plumbed into the prop. valve and then a line run to rear axles were another distrubtion block is bolted on the axle.

The SSB kit comes with two small pre-bent lines with red caps. On line has a larger fitting for screwing into the MC and then into the prop valve, and the other is a bent just right to plumb the other bowl to the distribution block.

Once you unplug the rear line from the distrution block the kit comes with a small plug to screw in, this line can then be re-bent slighly and you can mount your prop valve right below the distribution block.

I installed all new lines at the same time, but I bought Mplus pre-bent lines for $160 and they were identical to the ones I removed.

http://users.zoominternet.net/~dodgeram/images/01mastercylinderinstall.jpg
 
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