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Discussion Starter #1
I have strange problem with std distributor (67' 289). I have rebuild all engine and changed a cam for that set:
with following camshaft (tapped):

I have also rebuild distributor by cleaning it, changing springs and all top of it. I haven't touched or removed a gear.
Now I can not install it in the block. It stopped ca 1" above. I have watched YT DIYs, read forums and done all suggestion like, rotating distributor shaft, engine shaft, pushing down, etc. It always stops on same height.
My oil pump with drive has been not installed yet, but I think it has nothing with it.
Camshaft gear looks like in good position via distributor hole, also I didn't have any issue with camshaft installation.
Any suggestion before I will remove timing set cover ?
Is it possible that camshaft gear is diff then stock one ?
 

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It won't seat even if you rotate the engine at the crank? Usually the issue is misalignment with the oil pump drive; when I have that issue I will rotate the crank and it will just fall into place. If the pump and the drive pin are not installed it be some other issue causing the interference. I take it the oil pan is not installed? you may be able to see what it's hitting on from the bottom?
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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If the only thing you really changed was the cam it's kind of hard not to blame it. It would be pretty unusual for the gear on the cam to be wrong unless the cam is somehow for another engine but fits in your block anyway.

At this point I would break out my tiny USB camera. If the intake is off there's a hole that front of the block it would fit through and hopefully let me see something before I had to take things all apart again.

My preferred USB cameras (if you don't have one) is like $20 off eBay or Amazon. They kind with a "semi-rigid" cable-that's important. The ones they sell now fit micro and regular USB so they fit tablets, phones, laptops, whatever you want. Unless you have Apple hardware, then buy whatever fits that. Harbor Freight (for example) sells an all in one such borescope if you like. I don't really see the point of that style since I'm already carrying a viewing screen in my pocket. But some people prefer them. Bonus is that you can run down there and buy one. Not one place around me sells the small USB borescopes I like so I have to wait for delivery.
 
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Since you don't have the oil pump drive shaft installed I would say there may be some corrosion on the distributor housing where it fits tightly in the block. Stories abound on this forum from guys who removed the hold down clamp and were unable to even rotate the distributor, much less remove it from the block.
I'd look into using steel wool or fine grit sandpaper to polish the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It won't seat even if you rotate the engine at the crank? Usually the issue is misalignment with the oil pump drive; when I have that issue I will rotate the crank and it will just fall into place. If the pump and the drive pin are not installed it be some other issue causing the interference. I take it the oil pan is not installed? you may be able to see what it's hitting on from the bottom?
Yep, I have done few full rotation at the crank, no change. Even I can not feel that it tooth in the gear is trying to match. Oil pan is screwed, and engine is placed on wood pallet, so I can not remove it, since I don't have a crank. Probably I will be to open timing cover, but it is already installed with gasket and this special glue.

If the only thing you really changed was the cam it's kind of hard not to blame it. It would be pretty unusual for the gear on the cam to be wrong unless the cam is somehow for another engine but fits in your block anyway.

At this point I would break out my tiny USB camera. If the intake is off there's a hole that front of the block it would fit through and hopefully let me see something before I had to take things all apart again.
No only cam, since all engine was rebuild. I have endoscope on USB, but in diff place. Maybe it is good idea to use it. I need look for that hole.

Since you don't have the oil pump drive shaft installed I would say there may be some corrosion on the distributor housing where it fits tightly in the block. Stories abound on this forum from guys who removed the hold down clamp and were unable to even rotate the distributor, much less remove it from the block.
I'd look into using steel wool or fine grit sandpaper to polish the housing.
To be honest, my first idea is that it stuck on block, because it always seat in some way and same height. When I rotate I don't feel gear rotating by another. There is no corrosion, block was renovated:

764474
 

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I'd pull it out and polish that "ring" that's down inside the block in your photo. While you're at it polish that upper ring (above the rubber o-ring) also.
 

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Is your engine set to TDC?
 

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Just tossing this out there...distributors are different between big and small blocks and don't inter-change. Brian
 

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To the op, pop the cap off and see if you can turn the rotor. That should tell us if its binding on the gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Distributor is from that engine, I have check numbers and it is correct.

I'd pull it out and polish that "ring" that's down inside the block in your photo. While you're at it polish that upper ring (above the rubber o-ring) also.
@awhtx You won virtual beer🍺🍺 👍, you were very close and suggest me a solution. So I started polish that ring inside a block, but then I measured the depth where distributor stack and it looks that it is block between shaft and hole which keep it near the gear. Then I saw that end of shaft is a little bit wider (why ??) (like 0.5mm) I have sanded angle (last mm of the shaft) and finally polished. It helped and distributor went dipper. Why it is so ?? I have no idea, distributor was out of engine for almost a year.

Thank you all guys for your suggestion !! It safe me a lot of work.
 
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