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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after a long hiatus, I'm back to devoting some time to my mach and the one thing that has drove me nuts over the years of driving is the lackluster brakes. The fronts were granadas and the rears were stock drums, and a leaky rear wheel cylinder put me over the edge and decided to convert my brakes. I first did the Mustang Steve rear disc conversion using 2015-18 Mustang GT 13" rotors. The next step was to address the fronts, which I knew I wanted the 13.2" rotor from the 2010-14 GT but needed a caliper. I bought Wilwood Superlite calipers but the brake pads were so short that they were only covering half of the swept width of the rotor. I then stumbled upon some late model mustang guys using Brembo calipers from a Cadillac ATS on their 13" rotors, which got me thinking and decided to take the plunge. I started with disc brake spindles but to make a bracket would have required CNC, so luckily I had some drum spindles laying around that made it much easier. These brackets are modeled after what MustangSteve offers for other late model brake conversions, but not the exact same since these are obviously Brembos that didn't come on Mustangs.

I'll note that I'm not quite finished with the conversion, as I'm still waiting on brake hoses but feel I'm far enough along to get this on here in case anyone else was interested. I don't have early model spindles, so this is geared toward 69/70 mustangs. I want to stress that brakes are a serious matter and can kill you or others if you aren't careful. While this is intended to help you make your own brackets, you really need to know what you are doing with fabrication and tolerances to get these calipers to fit the rotors. I'm providing PDFs of the brackets I made, but take no responsibility in any failures or misfitments. These are guides to get you going in the right direction and will take some adjustments and clearancing. I will also mention that it may be good, should you do this conversion, to transfer the PDF paper cutsheets onto a 3/8" thick cutting board or MDF and test fit before going through the headache of cutting 3/8" plate steel. I went through quite a few iterations and steel before I thought about cutting board. Through numerous iterations some changes were made along the way, and I believe the PDF is my last iteration but would help to try it with easier-to-cut plastic first. There is a chance I didn't get all the mods into the CAD file. I will also note that the bracket shim I specify is 1/4" plate, but you will need to determine actual thickness and adjust accordingly so that the caliper is centered on the rotor. One final thought in fabrication, the Caddy Brembos are designed for 12.6" rotors and these are 13.2" so the arc is a bit sharper and you'll want to locate the caliper onto the rotor so that the brake pads are recessed enough onto the rotor but not so much that the caliper is touching the rotor. This was the biggest headache for me and finally just clamped the undrilled caliper bracket to the spindle bracket in the exact location and then used transfer punches to mark the hole location. What I found was that the bracket that fit on one side resulted in the caliper touching the rotor on the other side, thus locating/clamping before drilling holes.

Parts list for me thus far:
NEW Brembo Calipers - 2013-19 Cadillac ATS from Rock Auto (no core charge) = $125 each
Caliper paint & clear plus vinyl decals from ebay = $30
13.2" rotors for 2010-14 Mustang GT - Powerstop AR85144XPR from Rock Auto = $133/pair
Steel plates - 3/8" brackets and 1/4" shim = $25
Brake Pads, Pins and Clips - I went with Power Stop Carbon Fiber Z23-1001 = $43
Bolts, washers, and nuts - I used flange bolts from Menards. Mix of 14mmx35 metric for calipers, 1/2-13 x 1 1/2 for caliper bracket-to-spindle bracket, and some 3/8" bolts for spindle-to-spindle bracket = $15ish
Drum brake spindles and hubs (replaced inner and outer pairs of hub bearings and seals = $50)
Stainless brake hoses - I went with Inline Tube's 18" long with 3/16 brake line fitting and 10mm banjo bolt fitting = $24/ea
GM 10mm banjo bolts and crush washers - $10
If going with new rear discs, I replaced my disc/drum distribution block with a tee on the fronts and wilwood adjustable prop valve for the rears (260-10922 for $45). I fabricated my own stainless lines since the stock ones won't work in that configuration without some tedious rebending.
I am reusing my stock disc/drum M/C on my stock booster. I confirmed no residual valves on this one and the smaller drum bowl isn't an issue for me on a non-daily driver

So all in, I'm at $650 which is about half of most aftermarket 13" rotor packages but there was a ton of time involved for me to develop the brackets and dealing with the sandblasting and painting of parts.

Now for the pictures!

What I started with:
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Looks so tiny with those 17" wheels. Those rotors were barely larger than the wheel hub!
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Mocking up brackets with the Caddy calipers and rotors. I didn't get any pics of the white cutting board that I used. A bit flimsy to get true measurements for shims, but helpful in verifying bolt hole locations and overall fitment. Also note the spread of the caliper bolts puts them close to the spindle arms, which a socket barely fits to tighten them. One way around that is to put the caliper at the front, but I figured that might look odd (even though its done on some cars)

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Mounted to wheel to verify clearances. Don't worry, that Caddy emblem will get painted over:

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Fitment now verified, so then comes paint and install (dont' forget the Loctite and torque specs!):

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Attached is the PDF file for the spindle bracket, shim, and caliper bracket. Be sure to verify the 1" scale in the PDF measures exact. When you print, choose "Actual Size". The spindle and caliper brackets are 3/8" steel and shim is roughly 1/4" but to be verified. The spindle hole is 2 3/4", which barely fits the hub and I chamfered the opening. You could go with a 3" hole saw but it only reduces the amount of steel between the 4 bolts and the large hole. For the bolt holes, they are drawn as actual bolt diameters of 3/8" and 1/2" for the spindle brackets and 1/2" and 9/16" for the caliper brackets. I typically drill 1/16" larger than the bolt size for variance in fabrication tolerances, but you are welcome to start with bolt diameters first and ream larger for ones that need increased to fit. Any larger than 1/16" and bolt slip can occur so I'd recommend making a new bracket with the hole relocated (in my opinion). Again, these are starting points and you'll want to verify hole alignment and fitment first before going with steel plates.

Pics of wheels mounted and clearances to my wheels:
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Some CAD pics for you drafting geeks:
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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Well crap. I was totally going to do this. Seriously! But I am overwhelmed with other stuff.
Plan A was to use some Touareg/Cayenne Brembo calipers but they are NOT attractive in the traditional Brembo style. Then I spotted some ATS calipers in a junkyard and plan B came about. I've gotten rotors and some some spindles. Less the calipers and time/energy to get the ball rolling.
Bright side is that now I don't have to forge a new path. Downside is that's part of the fun! Anyway, you've done a great job it looks like and thanks ever so much for posting this.

Bonus info, Brembo calipers are "optional" and in two styles on the ATS cars. Ones with the "J55" option are what you want. If you ask for regular ATS calipers you won't get the nice ones. There are also calipers for the twin turbo "ATS-V" which I suspect to also be Brembos but don't actually know. In any case those are scarcer than hen's teeth and tend to be stupid expensive which is all I needed to know.

I was originally inspired to look into this by one of our Euro members who successfully transplanted some spiffy brakes off a Citroen or something that we don't have over here.
 
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I have 2014 Mustang GT Front Brakes on My 1966 using Mustang Steve's kit. I'd be curious to see how close the mustang GT calipers are to the Brembo calipers from the ATS as using MS's kit would simplify using these calipers significantly. Overall, nice job, and it looks great. Which master cylinder are you planning on using?
 

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Great job and thank you for sharing!!!! Very impressive.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have 2014 Mustang GT Front Brakes on My 1966 using Mustang Steve's kit. I'd be curious to see how close the mustang GT calipers are to the Brembo calipers from the ATS as using MS's kit would simplify using these calipers significantly. Overall, nice job, and it looks great. Which master cylinder are you planning on using?
Not sure how they compare. If you already have the MS brackets, print out my PDF and lay the MS brackets on top to compare. Bolt spacing of the calipers and how far the calipers sit down on the rotor would be the two likely differences. One could probably start with MS spindle bracket and then fab the caliper bracket accordingly....

Master cylinder is the same stock disc/drum (is only 6mo old), stock distribution block removed,, brads tee for front lines and adjustable prop valve for rear lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well crap. I was totally going to do this. Seriously! But I am overwhelmed with other stuff.
Plan A was to use some Touareg/Cayenne Brembo calipers but they are NOT attractive in the traditional Brembo style. Then I spotted some ATS calipers in a junkyard and plan B came about. I've gotten rotors and some some spindles. Less the calipers and time/energy to get the ball rolling.
Bright side is that now I don't have to forge a new path. Downside is that's part of the fun! Anyway, you've done a great job it looks like and thanks ever so much for posting this.

Bonus info, Brembo calipers are "optional" and in two styles on the ATS cars. Ones with the "J55" option are what you want. If you ask for regular ATS calipers you won't get the nice ones. There are also calipers for the twin turbo "ATS-V" which I suspect to also be Brembos but don't actually know. In any case those are scarcer than hen's teeth and tend to be stupid expensive which is all I needed to know.
Thanks! The ATS J55 has the 12.6" Brembo and the ATS-V has 14.6" Brembos (plus Brembo rears). I mention Rock Auto not only because its relatively cheap for new calipers BUT they also do not have a core charge unlike most places.
 

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I have he vintage venom 99-04 brake kit, just bough my self a set of 2000 Cobra R calipers, hoping to swap the 2 piston calipers with the brembos, from what I read the pbr brake mount points are the same as the brembos and utilize the same 13" rotor.

good to know your mod fits well, hoping my mod will be the same.
 

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Outstanding as usual Jeremy. Thanks for sharing with us, instead of keeping it a secret.
 

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That is some nice work mate! Thanks for the details and sharing.
 

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Will this work with most 17" rims? I noted your spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Will this work with most 17" rims? I noted your spacers.
In my situation the spacers were due to the 17" rim lip interference with the UCA balljoint lip, not the calipers. Adding these brakes did not require spacing them out further than what is needed for UCA clearance

I did install new SPC tubular arms which gave me an extra 1/4" or so but not enough for me to buy thinner spacers.
 

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In my situation the spacers were due to the 17" rim lip interference with the UCA balljoint lip, not the calipers. Adding these brakes did not require spacing them out further than what is needed for UCA clearance

I did install new SPC tubular arms which gave me an extra 1/4" or so but not enough for me to buy thinner spacers.
Thank you for responding. I just got into the hotel for the evening. Long flight day.
I have the 17" Shelby 10 spokes from Legendary wheel. There seems to be a decent amount room. The KH disk are lack-luster and don't shut a 600 HP big block car down quickly. I have been contemplating the Trans Am conversion but I simply can't justify 2200.00 for them.
Your work here was brilliant. I am at the juncture that I want to change my fronts being I actually drive my Shelby at least once a week.
This type of sharing of information is exactly what these forums should be about. I appreciate you making the the information you assembled free to others. Braking is probably about the worst part of driving my car. Too many idiots on cell phones and pre-occupied millennials on electronics while driving.
If I can gather up the parts and get the brackets I may do a Youtube tutorial to share with the group here for installation purposes.
 

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Thank you for responding. I just got into the hotel for the evening. Long flight day.
I have the 17" Shelby 10 spoke from Legendary wheel. There seems to be a decent amount room. The KH disk are lack-luster and don't shut a 600 HP big block car down quickly. I have been contemplating the Trans Am conversion but I simply can't justify 2200.00 for them.
Your work here was brilliant. I am at the juncture that I want to change my fronts being I actually drive my Shelby at least once a week.
This type of sharing of information is exactly what these forums should be about. I appreciate you making the the information you assembled free to others. Braking is probably about the worst part of driving my car. Too many idiots on cell phones and pre-occupied millennials on electronic while driving.
If I can gather up the parts and get the brackets I may do a Youtube tutorial to share with the group here for installation purposes.
I couldn't agree more about the sharing of info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks everyone! If anyone ventures down this path and has questions, hit me up! Happy to help in any way. I used a band saw to cut these plates and also used a hole saw (2 3/4") in a drill press for the larger hole. With the right TPI blade in the band saw and lots of cutting oil and subsequent mess under the drill press, it wasn't all that bad to make the brackets.

I updated my signature to include this in the other DIY posts I've created in the past. Take a look in case you weren't aware of them already.
 
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