For those that are cheap like me and like to make your own things that are simple to make (more time in the shop is a bonus!), I thought I'd post up dimensions to make your own camber eccentric plates similar to what Pro Motorsports and TCP carries. There are multiple variations of these out there, ranging from multiple individual plates with single hole, to single plates with two holes, to this version with a single plate with three holes. I don't see any strength concerns with having more holes, and if I had multiple plates I had to store they would likely get lost over time. So anyways, below is a picture of what the plates look like finished (from TCP website), and attached is a PDF with dimensions to make your own. Two plates per control arm are needed, and the hole in the lower left corner of the plate is to help you keep orientation of the plates on each side of the control arm. You want the hole to be in the same corner so that the bolt is straight.
The dimensions were taken from an older iteration of the Pro Motorsports plates.The current ones use two holes instead of three like mine. Since this is from an old version and it appears other companies have stolen the same idea, I don't see it being an issue in posting these drawings. You will likely want to up the thickness of the plates to 0.25" since it is more common, and I highly recommend adding the number markings so that you can keep track of the increments. Either use a number punch, scribe the number, or even a permanent marker. As you can see in the TCP version below, they don't include these marks nor do they have the reference hole. I would think the TCP version would be a pain to keep track of.
Beuing, thanks for the info. I've been making sets of these for my toys for a while now but your dimensions have me wanting to make a few changes. Thanks again.
Ha, no way! You drew up your plate at almost the same time I drew up mine! Maybe one of us could have saved the other the trouble. (Well, in all fairness I checked my print date, you've got me beat by a month...)
Just an FYI, your plates may not work with the 67-later cars due to the plates being 2" wide. Mine are roughly 1.75" and barely fit on the stock brackets of my car. Excellent work by the way! I like the Solidworks or whatever 3d drawing that you did of the setup.
Oh, I wasn't going for 67 and up, just for my 65, which has 0 factory adjustment on the LCA (ie, no stock brackets). That is a good thing to keep in mind though, in-case someone else tries to make those inner plates and stick them on their 67+ car.
BTW, I was using Pro-Engineer. It has a cool function where you can easily toggle on and off part transparencies to get a clearer look 'inside' of your assembly without doing cumbersome cross sections all of the time.
Just an FYI, your plates may not work with the 67-later cars due to the plates being 2" wide. Mine are roughly 1.75" and barely fit on the stock brackets of my car. Excellent work by the way! I like the Solidworks or whatever 3d drawing that you did of the setup.
You half to weld saddles on and grind open the cross member. Here's mine when I was installing the kit. In the photo it looks like I didn't grind it open all the way and left a lip. That's the back side you're seeing. However you don't have to grind open the chassis all the way to match the saddle like I did. It's not going to hurt anything. Only useful if you're going to run positive camber, lol. I wasn't thinking and could have cut my grinding time in half!
I'm replacing the clutch in my 65, it has stock bell housing and clutch linkage with a T5 conversion. I have a stock flywheel as far as I know, on a 68 model 289 engine, so it is the 28oz. I have had a centerforce in it for over a dozen years, and it has finally given up. I went to just go...
I wanted to verify the fit of my driveshaft and universal joints before painting the shaft. I have SKF joints but just realized they are made in China, not really sure on the quality of these nowadays. Anyway I also bought a new transmission yoke, it is ACP brand part # C5DZ-A. U joint UJ507 is...
I see this on ebay and it seems interesting but lacking of history. Barn find with a clean engine. The interior paint makes me wonder what is going on underneath it. What is the feedback from those who have done this for a while...
All the videos online show installs of the ignition switches done from the bottom on cars with no AC.
There is very lil room to put it back in. The old one actually broke coming out and in pieces.
In another post somebody said that I might have a stuck solenoid that causing the starter to spin...
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