[buening]

For those that are cheap like me and like to make your own things that are simple to make (more time in the shop is a bonus!), I thought I'd post up dimensions to make your own camber eccentric plates similar to what Pro Motorsports and TCP carries. There are multiple variations of these out there, ranging from multiple individual plates with single hole, to single plates with two holes, to this version with a single plate with three holes. I don't see any strength concerns with having more holes, and if I had multiple plates I had to store they would likely get lost over time. So anyways, below is a picture of what the plates look like finished (from TCP website), and attached is a PDF with dimensions to make your own. Two plates per control arm are needed, and the hole in the lower left corner of the plate is to help you keep orientation of the plates on each side of the control arm. You want the hole to be in the same corner so that the bolt is straight.

The dimensions were taken from an older iteration of the Pro Motorsports plates.The current ones use two holes instead of three like mine. Since this is from an old version and it appears other companies have stolen the same idea, I don't see it being an issue in posting these drawings. You will likely want to up the thickness of the plates to 0.25" since it is more common, and I highly recommend adding the number markings so that you can keep track of the increments. Either use a number punch, scribe the number, or even a permanent marker. As you can see in the TCP version below, they don't include these marks nor do they have the reference hole. I would think the TCP version would be a pain to keep track of.

Hope this helps other DIY guys.

 

[tweet66]

Beuing, thanks for the info. I've been making sets of these for my toys for a while now but your dimensions have me wanting to make a few changes. Thanks again.

 

[buening]

Not a problem tweet, glad they can be of some help!

 

[kd4pwh]

Wow thanks! Good job!

 

[GypsyR]

Nice! Thanks a lot. Now that I don't have to guesstimate the hole spacings these just jumped way up on my "to-do" list.

 

[buening]

:lol: Not a problem! Any more items I can push up on your to-do list?

 

[yellowoctupus]

Ha, no way! You drew up your plate at almost the same time I drew up mine! Maybe one of us could have saved the other the trouble. (Well, in all fairness I checked my print date, you've got me beat by a month...)

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/654213-1000-challenge-2.html#post4450816

 

[buening]

Haha, nice! Great minds think alike

Just an FYI, your plates may not work with the 67-later cars due to the plates being 2" wide. Mine are roughly 1.75" and barely fit on the stock brackets of my car. Excellent work by the way! I like the Solidworks or whatever 3d drawing that you did of the setup.

 

[yellowoctupus]

Oh, I wasn't going for 67 and up, just for my 65, which has 0 factory adjustment on the LCA (ie, no stock brackets). That is a good thing to keep in mind though, in-case someone else tries to make those inner plates and stick them on their 67+ car.

BTW, I was using Pro-Engineer. It has a cool function where you can easily toggle on and off part transparencies to get a clearer look 'inside' of your assembly without doing cumbersome cross sections all of the time.

 

[buening]

That's a nice program. Caterpillar uses it a lot on their structural designs from what I recall.

 

[Dans68]

What should I set the camber when installing these? I have the one in Shelby drop.

 

[Huskinhano]

What should I set the camber when installing these? I have the one in Shelby drop.

I'd go 1/2° negative camber. I run 1 & 1/8° negative camber mostly for tire clearance and not noticing any abnormal tire wire.

 

[Dans68]

So hole “2” ?

 

[dobrostang]

Haha, nice! Great minds think alike

Just an FYI, your plates may not work with the 67-later cars due to the plates being 2" wide. Mine are roughly 1.75" and barely fit on the stock brackets of my car. Excellent work by the way! I like the Solidworks or whatever 3d drawing that you did of the setup.

Good to see you back B, what am I missing on a 66, how are these plates used? THere has to be more to this system right?

 

[69GT350H]

Once someone has the material and made the jig (if one is used), might anyone willing to make these plates for others?

 

[Huskinhano]

Good to see you back B, what am I missing on a 66, how are these plates used? THere has to be more to this system right?

You half to weld saddles on and grind open the cross member. Here's mine when I was installing the kit. In the photo it looks like I didn't grind it open all the way and left a lip. That's the back side you're seeing. However you don't have to grind open the chassis all the way to match the saddle like I did. It's not going to hurt anything. Only useful if you're going to run positive camber, lol. I wasn't thinking and could have cut my grinding time in half!

 

[Dans68]

Would love a clear explanation of what each number means in relation to degrees. Does “1” equal 0 degrees? 2 = -.5 ??

total control products specs doesn’t give clear instructions unfortunately.

 

[Niko7]

Hi guys. I did the conversion according to your data here in Germany on my '68 Mustang. Thanks for the technical drawing. I did cut the metal myself. Which bolt do I need for the lower control arm? I can't find anything. We should fix this information here in the chat. diameter and length. And how big does the thread free area have to be? What strength does the bolt need to have? Thanks in advance.
Niko from Germany.

 

[Niko7]

Nobody that can help out?

 

[tweet66]

Niko, in my situation I originally used the stock 1/2" grade 8 bolt. When I built the New cross member I ended up using a 1/2" x 5" grade 8, with 1. 5/8" of free thread, to tie the lower control arms and cross member together. Stock bolt is 3 1/4" long with 1" of free thread, 66 specs obviously.