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I am in the process of upgrading my brake hoses to braided stainless steel, and it's come to my attention that apparently I still have the single exhaust rear brake line setup. It's not something I ever really took note of because the line has always cleared just fine. But now I'm reading stuff about how the frame bracket should be moved outboard (not happening, no welder) and the dual exhaust hose bracket should be used to give the hose more clearance.

Currently as-is, the stock hose has about 3" of clearance with the exhaust. It has no witness marks on it or anything, indicating that it has never ever hit the exhaust in a long history of me bottoming out the suspension and/or slamming the exhaust into the bottom of the trunk. It does lay on the side of the pumpkin but doesn't appear to be rubbed. Here's a few kind of crappy photos, bit of a tight spot.

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I think it may be important to note that I have a 1956 9" rear end (yes, a decade older than the car) in case the bolt mount is further inboard than one would normally expect. Looking at my rear end vs. photos of stock Mustang rear ends with dual exhaust, it looks like my junction block is REALLY close to the pumpkin, vs about midway along the axle on a Mustang rear end. As you can see in my photos, the junction block is about 2" away from the pumpkin so maybe that's why it clears better and was never an issue for me.

At any rate, I just want to know if swapping to a dual exhaust brake hose with the drop bracket will be of any use at all. To me, it looks like it would just get it closer to the exhaust since I am on the inboard side of the exhaust/shocks. But maybe it would help it clear the pumpkin better? Can't swap to the outboard side as I don't have a welder available nor am I really that interested. I could always stick another hose clamp bracket on that part of the floorboard more towards the outboard side and have the hose do a right angle across that part of the pan towards the outboard side of the car, then route it up and to the axle outboard of the exhaust, but... not sure how much slack there would be as I don't know how much length would be needed to do that.

So what's the verdict: Go with a replacement single-exhaust hose, or add a dual exhaust hose?
 

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When I bought my car back in 1980, it already had a dual exhaust on it, but still had the single exhaust setup for the rear brakes. Never had an issue with it. When I moved up to headers and ran the exhaust out through the valance instead of under the valance, still kept the single exhaust setup. In fact, I didn't even know there was a single/dual exhaust brake system at the rear until I joined this forum. Guess what? I'm still running the single exhaust brake setup in the rear. Another case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
 

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It's only necessary to clear the dual exhaust pipe as it rises over the rear end. If you can clear your dual exhaust currently, dont worry about it. You'll appreciate those SS brake lines when you're done.
 

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Just before COVID shut things down I was working on this exact same issue on my car. Originally single. With a 2" dual system I was ok, I had used a light spring to pull slightly on the hose to give a little extra margin. Now with 2.50" mandrel bent pipes with larger bends became a issue. Looking at your photos you should be fine. The 8" single is more away to the left then yours. The hose also comes out at 90°, not angled like yours. The factory dual exhaust hose looks similar to yours but moves the block forward and down in front of the axle tube. Also on factory dual exhaust, the hard line mounting tab on the floor pan is more in the middle of the floor pan and not on the edge of the tunnel
 

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Huskinhano, Do you have a picture of that? Exhaust and brake line? I have a complete floor that I put in and along with wrong emergency brake brackets,seat belt brackets in the wrong place, I need to know if the brake line bracket is correct or not..And yes I’m going to have duel exhaust..Thanks
 

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I actually relocated my rear end distribution block to one of the studs holding the pumpkin on, 9" with 2 1/2" magnaglow exhaust
 

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I had my dual exhaust for years running with the regular single exhaust brake line as well. Once I installed the panhard it became irrelevant as I had to lop it off in front of the axle but I never had any issues with where it was located and actually drilled and put it in the same spot for my 9 inch upgrade.
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Yes, your hole looks some inches inside of where a proper block and vent hole would be so i wouldn't count on buying any Mustang hose. Looks like its not even really a vent. The orientation of the lines are also unique.
On ebay there is an outfit that makes nice DOT SS hoses, stock and custom, available with a choice of colored ends and covers for a fair price. I would just decide how you want to run the hose and measure for more or less hose than you have now. I got one for a '70s truck that is about 4" longer than the original.
I'd get a hose strap and catch it on one of the pumpkin studs with another nut to keep any flopping around under control.
 

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the hose seems to clear the exhaust just fine ,but the way it seams to lay on the chunk stud/nut is a little concerning
 

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My car -originally single exhaust, converted by PO - had a spring holding the hose away from the exhaust pipe.
I replaced that hose with one from a early 70's Ford truck, it's much longer so I turned the bracket on the axle around the other way. Now the hose stays high and has a big loop to the back of the axle.
 

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Kelly, your hose block is mounted farther inboard than stock, and is angled 45° inward further increasing clearance from the left tailpipe. Somewhat unconventional, but seems to work for you.
 

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With the dual exhaust hose you would probably have to get the dual exhaust hard lines too. That includes the rear lines to the brakes and the intermediate line since the connect point has been exteended. I didn't even try to make my old lines work because I put all new stainless lines in anyway. The dual exhaust hose moves the hook up block for the rear brakes off the rear end. It is kind of nice for it to all be correct under there even if I am the only one who appreciates it on my car. When I was restoring the under carriage I found a few things like this that I had to fix.

photo is not my car but somebody's on the VMF


It is not that hard to tack that bracket on under there(could start a fire if you're not careful though) but the one in the photo above looks to have been "re-oriented" from the stock set up. Ford even put a couple of raised lines in a right angle to indicate the correct location for the factory welder to tack that thing on.

 
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