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Discussion Starter #1
Do strut rods go bad or just the bushings? What would make one bad?
 

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They have a certain fatigue life and are effected by corrosion.
The real question is whether what you're using as a replacement
is truly superior?

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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Do strut rods go bad or just the bushings? What would make one bad?
The strut rod itself is just a steel bar. The only way for it to 'go bad' is either thru corrosion (very common) or via mechanical damage (ie an accident). Corrosion can severely weaken the bar as well as render its attachment/adjustment threads useless. The bushings are rubber with steel support shells and are also subject to environmental effects which cause the rubber to soften, harden, crack, and disintegrate.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So on my 64.5 it would be best to buy new instead of pulling the old ones and powder coating them.
 

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So on my 64.5 it would be best to buy new instead of pulling the old ones and powder coating them.
Its a judgement call based on their apparent condition. If you have any doubts then the prudent thing would be to replace them.

Good luck
Paul
 

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I've seen photos of them shear off at the point where the bushings are.
Back in the mid-90's there were reproduction strut rods on the market that were not correctly tapered from the OD of the rod down to where the threads began. And they would shear-off right at that point (which is where the bushings ride). So if the photos you saw were of repro strut rods, I wouldn't apply the same degree of "danger" to factory rods. Sure, everything dies of fatigue and/or corrosion "eventually", but the reproduction back then were flat-out flawed. I had to engage in an enormous recall, not fun..

Also, the cross-section of the sheared repros showed evidence of hydrogen embrittlement, so they were doubly-doomed.

Rick
NPD
 

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So on my 64.5 it would be best to buy new instead of pulling the old ones and powder coating them.
I bought new, adjustable strut rods from Specialty Products http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=94220&region=USA&make=Ford&model=Mustang&year=1964 - 1966&from=USAFrom&to=USATo for $70 each, shipped. They look similar to stock with the added benefit of caster adjustability like later model Fords, at an economical price.

I suppose that you could powder coat your originals if they look solid and undamaged/unworn upon visual inspection. There is the danger that the powder coat will hide any stress cracks or micro fractures that may occur in the future. Years ago, I rebuilt two 1965 Harley-Davidson Sprint motorcycles (one was an "H" model and the other was a "C" model). These bikes were popular with vintage flat-track racers and that circle of experts advised me AGAINST powder coating the frames because I would end up hiding fractures. "Wet" paint could also hide these failures to some degree, I guess, but the powder coat is a little thicker. Just my two cents, for what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
semperfido, those look just like the regular strut rods. What am I missing?
 

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semperfido, those look just like the regular strut rods. What am I missing?
OEM 65/66 strut rods are not used to adjust caster/camber and only had threads on one side of the forward bushing pack. On 65/66 camber/caster is adjusted by using shims between the upper control arm and the body. On 67+ caster/camber is adjusted using the struts that have adjustment threads on both sides (thru threaded) of the rubber bushing pack.

The 'special' 65/66 strut rods in the above link have thru adjustment threads like the 67+.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So these are worth the extra 100 or so over just the bushings for my old ones? I'm in the process of adding gt coils shelby drop and bilsteins shocks. Heck why not...
 

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Well, considering that it's your suspension... I dunno. Personally, I chose to go with all-new (mostly stock) stuff. You did talk about powder coating the old units and that isn't really cheap.
 
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