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Discussion Starter #1
IIRC several years ago I heard of somebody doing this and it suposedly worked out well. I was under Savannah's van last night doing her yearly oil change (joke) and took a long look at the rack. Initialy it looks pretty close to the major measurements that would be required.

Has anybody done this one or have info on someone that has?
 

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I forget the guys name that did it, but I will find it and post it.

Almost every rack out there has about 5 inches of travel, stop to stop. Even the TCP rack has about 6 inches, but compared to the stock steering travel of just over 7 inches, it still falls short. What we need is a spindle with a shorter arm (1.5" to 2" shorter) on it to compensate for this lack of travel.

By the way, my Taurus rack is still performing flawlessly. I can't make really sharp turns during parking manuvers, but, with practice, you get used to it quickly and can drive accordingly. You live in CA don't you? Maybe if I am in your area some time we can arrange a "test drive" and you can drive my Mustang to see what it feels like. That way I can get an outsiders opinion on how bad it really is.
 

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I started to install a GM R/P from a Grand Am on my 65 fastback but I have put it off until next winter. I have seen pics of this R/P installed on a 70 mustang. I think his user name is Lilhos on mustang steve's site. I can double check on that if needed. This GM rack can be purchased with a 2.5 and a 2.8 lock to lock turn. The rack mounts to the GM car in a way that will allow you to clamp the rack to the mustang frame much the same as the TCP unit does. The rack has around 5.5 or 5.75 inches of travel. Can't remember for sure. From what I have read and looked into so far this would be the best rack to use on a 65 to 66 mustang because the width is not an issue like the other racks. You would also make a bracket much like the TCP unit for your inner tie rods to mount to. I did not have the power steering lines in at the time of fitting it in my car but it did clear my headers and my cable conversion very well. I believe there would be room for the power lines as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Dave, I'll check out alaroque. Yes, If we could get spindles with a shorter arm that would cure the problem. I'll look into the choices there.

I'm up in Oregon but I would realy like to see the Taurus rack conversion. Do you have any pics up on the web?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd be interested in more info about that one also. There has to be a way that is less complicated then the aftermarket one. I know, the TCP one works great. I just am not thrilled about all the extra gear to make it work and the price. I just want to build a mount, bolt it up and build a coluum conector and end links. Then when it's done it's just R&P like any other R&P on a car.
 

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It's hard to explain if you haven't try to install a couple under your car or should I say trail fit the racks. It will be just like the TCP unit. You need to make your own inner tie rod mounting bar and brackets to mount it to the frame. Just fill in the pieces as you go. Thats my plan when I do it this winter, I hope. I would go to the junk yard and and but a couple of core units like I did and try them out. That is the best way to get a good idea of what will work out best for you.

What I found out along the way is that moving the inner tie rod mounting point will have a big impact on how the steering will act. There is a happy spot that you must stay with in to keep the steering correct from bump steer and i am sure there is more. A Taraus rack I think is to wide and you may have to offset it to one side of the car. This gives you an improper inner tie rod location let alone being different on both sides. The GM rack you have full control over the location of every thing. You can measure where your current inner tie rod location is and make you bracket from there. Measurements will need to be from the car frame.
 
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