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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My body guy has paint the car and put the doors back on and is putting the whole thing together. My question is, if I don't like a gap where the rear of the door meets the body, and in my opinion it is too wide, can this be adjusted later without removal of the fender? I was thinking if it bother me that much, I could open the door real wide, remove the bolts and shim between the door and hinge, then rebolt. Just to move it back about 1/8" to 1/4". To me the gap looks to wide, but the body guy said he wanted a bit more space there to not chip paint. But as i went through all my pictures of before it was taken apart, the gaps appear to be a lot less wide. Although I have mentioned this to him previously, and I will try to do so now, I really don't want him to think I am questioning him, which I am not, therefore pissing him off. Last thing I want is someone working on my car angry at me. I hate to bother people and then feel like they won't do as well or as much for me either. Can someone tell me what the measurement of the door to rear body panel gap is on their car for reference? My car is 67 fastback. Thanks.
 

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Stick a paint stirring stick in the gap.... 3/16" is pretty darn good for the rear door gap.

Adjusting this gap later is not a simple procedure. Although you can see the hinge bolts by opening the door, getting a wrench/socket on them easily is another story.

Door gaps get set before moving on to the fenders.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
in all honesty, I think it might be double that. If later I need to do it, can the door just be shimmed on the door to hinge side as opposed to the hinge to body side though? I agree with you it should be adjusted before fenders, but again, this may or may not happen and I have gone through the entire story with you, so you know the details.
 

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Jon,

You shouldn't need to use shims when adjusting these doors. The hinge mounting points have adjustability built-into them. To move the door backwards, the (6) hinge to A pillar bolts would need to be loosened. These are a PITA to get to with the fenders installed.

Dave
 

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And the doors have to be right BEFORE the fenders are mounted and aligned to the hood/doors.
 

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I would take your body guy a copy of the shop manual, it lists the gap specs, tell him thats what you want, its your dime.
 

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If you are paying him to do your car you should make no bones about telling him how you want your gaps.

I can see the front gap being a tad wider but the rear should be little more than a paint stick.

Sluggo
 

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Pissing him off should not be a concern. Is this the lowest bidder collision shop?
Hopefully it's not too late to adress body panel gaps. This should be checked out
before all the work and expense of the final paint job.
 

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Any painter is going to be worried about doing major adjustment AFTER the car is painted and the panels are on. If HE chips it HE fixes it on his nickel. If he can get you to take is as-is, problem solved.

As far as adjustment, NO you can NOT adjust the doors SAFELY without gauranteeing you will not chip the paint. I'd say there is maybe a 20% chance you can get away with it but even if you do it is real ahrd to get all of the bolts tight again so it won't sag later. If the front end is not all put together with grille and headlights, etc then it would be easier and safer to take the fenders back off.

You COULD also loosen the hinges on the door side and shim them a touch but again, you risk them losening up over time if you can't get them tight enough with the shims in there. But the process of loosening the top three hinge bolts on the door just enough to get three shims in (one on each bolt) then repeat on the bottom hinge would be much easier.
 

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This topic started with "my body guy...". IMHO fit comes before finish!
 

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My body/paint person had the fenders/doors off twice to get all body/metal work and fit done. Before painting, I had to ok the fit was acceptable (which I appreciated).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I appreciate all the feedback. However, at this time, the paint has already been done. Most of the car and fitting was done and I never got to see a lot of it. He came highly recommended. The reality of pissing off a guy is real because I feel there are a lot of body guys like this. I think that some feel if you don't trust or believe them, then you are questioning their skill. I know what you might be thinking....this should not be the case...you are a paying customer and should have it done your way. Well, sometimes I think they feel they know the right wayt to do it and they are doing it that way. Since I don't restore cars all the time, what do I know. I did mention this to another person helping me with this, and they said it would be easy enough to shim without a lot of trouble afterward. Just like someone said above, just loosen bolts, and then add in U shaped shims. Should not be a big issue, since all the lines line up and it would just need to be shifted back a little bit. I will see what happens and let you all know. I only wish I was asked for approval on everything including fitment. That would have been a dream setup for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can someone tell me what the manual says is the correct gap spec? Thanks.
 

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My '68 Ford shop manual shows the gaps and tolerance for each body panel gap.
It varies by location. The smallest is .12 +/- .06 biggest is .30 +/- .06 (hood to cowl).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am guessing the .12 +/- .06 is the rear gap from door to body? so that would be .12 inches with variance of + or - .06 inches correct? I just want to make sure I am reading this correct. Thanks.
 

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The .12+/- .06 is trunk lid to quarter panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for clarifying. I will get these specs to the shop and see what can be done. Dave...I sent you an email about this, so when you get it, just ignore it. I will try to post some more pictures when I can, but we will see when I can get down there. So are there any plans to make your way up to this area or is Ellie coming by at any time? I am assuming not since winter is upon us. If for some reason you are traveling through or coming up this area, let me know. More than welcome to stop by anytime and check things out. Appreciate the help all.
 

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Jon,

I assume that my son will be driving his Ecar through your area in May. Hopefully by then, your dealings with this crotchedy old body guy will be a distant memory.

I'll be coming through in late June/early July, but driving something more practical as we're ultimately heading for Yellowstone/Grand Canyon. I'll definitely get up with you to check out the car when the time comes.

Dave
 

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Just a friendly suggestion. Please don't take this as piling on. In fact this applies
to many VMF'rs. Most of us spend well over $10,000 on our Mustang. Seems like
there's a hesitation to spend $45 for a new repro shop manual, often nice originals
availible on ebay for $30 or less. This kind of info is there for the looking! :p
 
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