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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to remove the other door to make a matched set. My door alignment woes continue. I spent another 4 hours last night trying to reattach the passenger door with no success. Responses to my last post said that the best way to align a door is to take the front fender off. Before I do that can anyone tell me how to take the fender off so that I don't have alignment problems putting it back on when the door is aligned. I have never removed a fender and I don't want to screw things up any worse than they already are.

Thanks,
Mike Boyle

My car is a Winter Blue 1969 convertible with black standard interior. It has an original (untouched) 302 2V C4 with ~53,000 miles on it.

1994 F150 Extended Cab 4x4
2000 Taurus
 
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Ok, the hinge to door bolts allow up/down, in/out, and rotation of the door. The hinge to car bolts allow
forward/backward and tilt of the door. So if you remove the door leaving the hinges on the car you can
reinstall the door without removing the fender. If or when you remove the hinges from the car, either scribe
the exact location of both or drill two small holes thru each hinge (top and bottom of each hinge) into the
car. When you put the hinge back on the car you use the drill bits ( takes 2 or anything that is same size
as the drill bit you used ) to align each hinge. Alignment holes is the way I did mine and the only adjusment
was some in and out of the door to hinge adjustment. Also, if you have an engine hoist, you can rig up rope
or nylon straps and use it to hold the door, have never done it myself, but watched an old man change
hinges on a 70's T-bird ( 7 feet long and 500 lbs) using one. Both doors, 4 hinges in an hour. Forgot to add
that he had an engine leveler on the hoist. I ask him if he needed any help and told me to just sit in the
corner and have some coffee as I'd be in the way.

66 Coupe, 289/2v, C4, CA Red<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by tjbatzli on 04/05/01 08:37 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately, I have already removed the door and I did not scribe alignment marks or drill holes in the hinges for realigning before I removed the hinges from the body. Your suggestions are exactly what I should have done. I wish I had posted the question before I removed the door and the hinges from the body. I need to know how to take the fender off and not have any realignment problems.

Thanks,
Mike Boyle

My car is a Winter Blue 1969 convertible with black standard interior. It has an original (untouched) 302 2V C4 with ~53,000 miles on it.

1994 F150 Extended Cab 4x4
2000 Taurus
 
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Wished I could help you there but I don't know jack fiddle about a 69 fender. Where is the alignment off?
May take awhile but start with the fore/aft position and fore/aft tilt first, (hinge to car bolts) use your
other door as a gage and paint paddles to measure gaps. Once you get that you can adjust the up/down,
in/out and port/starboard tilt of the door. It's gonna be pure trial and error with the fender on but may be
less work than pulling the fender.

66 Coupe, 289/2v, C4, CA Red
 

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Mike, will the hinges come off of the door so that you can mount them and then mount the door? if this will work then you can mount the hinges about in the center of all adjustments Then install the door keeping everything snug but not tight then work the door slowly and adjust. John

Opal frost pearl metallic 67 coupe http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/febef75b01.JPG
also have a 95 opal frost pearl G/T BOSS edition convertible belongs to swmbo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, The hinges are separate from the door. I pulled the hinges to replace the pins and bushing. I figured that it would be easier to work on the hinges at my bench. I will probably try one more night to align the door without removing the fender. If I don't get it right or even close tonight, I will pull the fender and try it that way.

Thanks,
Mike Boyle

My car is a Winter Blue 1969 convertible with black standard interior. It has an original (untouched) 302 2V C4 with ~53,000 miles on it.

1994 F150 Extended Cab 4x4
2000 Taurus
 

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I thinsk you are likely to have another unsuccessful night trying to go it again with the fender on, believe me. If you don't get the full instructions from someone else this is what I remember:
I couldn't figure out how the headlight buckets come off but the rest of the fender was simple. When I got to the body shop they had taken the buckets off and I could see they are held on by only three nuts going on to three studs from the buckets, the trick will be finding them, best try and get someone to post a picture of a disassembled bucket, you might try ebay there also. The fender is then held on by bolts along the top inside the engine bay, one up above the top door hinge screwed in forward, on underneath the fender by the door screwed in upward and a few in side the fender at the front (to brakets and the front valence) and in side the fender at the back to the firewall I guess. It took me about 15 minutes to get the fender off once that bucket was off. For alignment put some masking tape along the edge of the engine bay against the still bolted down fender and along the fender against that join also, draw some lines across the two for front-back references and the tape position should get you straight in-out.

Hope this helps some. I am going to check the pictures I got while the car was at the body shop and see if any would help the mystery. If I got some I will email you.

69 Sportsroof, 351C, 4spd toploader, Restomod BOSS 429 clone - the one and only (?) 1969 BOSS 351

http://home.swbell.net/boss351/mustang/boss1.jpg
http://stangnet.cardomain.com/user/adamg69
 
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Do you not still have an impression of where the hinge used to be? If not, I'd rough center it and work out from there. I have found a floor jack on the outer end to be helpful. I've reinstalled a few by myself. Never completely removed the hinge though, I've always left at least one starting point intact.

http://members.tripod.com/tangdar/
'67 Coupe project car (Did I say project car? I meant pile of rust)
http://www.americainter.net/~fevans/tangdar_flintstone.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't have any marks on the body to indicate where the hinges were originally attached because I thought that while I was fixing the hinges I would clean and paint the body where the hinges attach. Stupid me!!

Mike Boyle

My car is a Winter Blue 1969 convertible with black standard interior. It has an original (untouched) 302 2V C4 with ~53,000 miles on it.

1994 F150 Extended Cab 4x4
2000 Taurus
 
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By the way, you don't need to take the front fender extension off to remove the fender. I would advise keeping it attached to the fender cause it can be a real bear to put on and line up after the fender is installed.

1970 Mach 1, soon to be finished, 351 4V, Calypso Coral, top loader
 

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70MOC_WON, I was looking at the dismantled front pictures of my car last night trying to figure out how that extension was causing me problems on getting the fender off. If you don't have to take the extension off (I guess your'e right) I think that the fender is attached to it by at least 1 bolt, as I didn't do this part maybe you could give us the locations of the bolts that have to come off, I remember it being a pain discovering all the fender bolt locations, and to add to the list above I now remember two more going to the inside of the engine compartment by the battery tray (I think),

69 Sportsroof, 351C, 4spd toploader, Restomod BOSS 429 clone - the one and only (?) 1969 BOSS 351

http://home.swbell.net/boss351/mustang/boss1.jpg
http://stangnet.cardomain.com/user/adamg69
 
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