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Discussion Starter #1
Nothing special about this pic...just happened to be available and aids this discussion:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-6...013QQitemZ230184575950QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Click on the picture that shows the end of the door with the latch assembly. Two questions:

1) Here's an example of the silver/cad finish on the visible side of the latch assembly. Is this correct? Again, the back side of my original 67 latch is gold in color. I cannot understand how one side would be plated dichromate and the visible side (once installed) was silver.

2) Was the latch installed prior to paint or has this door simply been repainted?
 

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I would suspect that the gold dichromate has worn off, leaving the original metal color showing. It's hard to tell with that particular photo.
 

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67 & 68 door latches were finished in zinc dichromate; however, the gold tone was very faint. This finish method has improved greatly since the 60s and the iridescent gold is very noticable.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pete, thanks a lot for the info! So, when new, there would have been a very faint hint of gold tone on the portion of the latch visible when the door was opened, correct?

Seems to me that this plating cannot be reproduced, since to do so would require dissassembly of the latch mechanism due to the small plastic and rubber parts that are riveted inside the part. Am I mistaken?
 

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I used Eastwood's Gold Cad System to restore the finish on mine, came out great...
 

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Ya, I've used the 3-can gold-cad paint system by Eastwood. Looks fairly good if applied correctly...I just don't like the poor durability of paint verses plating. I don't see a way to replate these due to the rubber and plastic parts that are integrated (rivited) into the assembly
 
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You can re-plate them, but you have to remove all the coiled springs and rubber pieces. Not too difficult. The earlier 65/66 plating was a deeper gold than 67.
 

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Angela said:
Ya, I've used the 3-can gold-cad paint system by Eastwood. Looks fairly good if applied correctly...I just don't like the poor durability of paint verses plating. I don't see a way to replate these due to the rubber and plastic parts that are integrated (rivited) into the assembly

I will probably be doing mine soon. I know of at least one other stanger who wants his done so I'm thinking of setting up to do several sets at the same time. If we can line them up for one big plating session it will save some $$$ and materials if you're interested.
 

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You may want to look at the backs again. I have noticed that the exterior, visible portion is silver and only some of the mechanisms in the back are goldish plated.
 

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You may want to look at the backs again. I have noticed that the exterior, visible portion is silver and only some of the mechanisms in the back are goldish plated. PLease not, I only look at 68s }:|
 

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1968KR said:
PLease not, I only look at 68s }:|
And mostly only NJ ones, I can relate. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So it sounds like some folks have seen these latch parts plated dichromate and others have seen them plated silver/cad. Further, perhaps some assemblies had some of the parts plated dichromate. Sounds like some of the traditional multiple supplier differences as with many other parts? :)

IF the plating was at least partially dichromate in 67, yet the plating was so light that we have a hard time discerning whether or not the entire assembly was plated, perhaps it's prudent not to replate them during restoration. I'd rather put something back the way i found it, than to plate something that never was fully plated to begin with. Just thinking out loud. :)
 

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As noted to Angela:

My son would be doing the plating. He already does powdercoating and polishing. For this plating we would have to buy the materials at a cost around $150. We would need to get enough people/parts to offset that cost and for him to make a few bucks. I don't know what to charge except by what the big shop platers charge and cut it by at least 50% I hope. Also hope to have quick turnaround as the big shops take weeks and weeks to get stuff back. This also depends on whether the parts are already dismantled and prepped by the sender.
 
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