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Discussion Starter #1
is nearly impossible. I have pulled it off before on some thinner brake lines, but my new lines have a thicker wall. No matter how tight I clamp the line in the vice it slides right through. Have not even gotten the opportunity to bend the insert yet (as always seems to happen).

Any tricks here... it's 3/16" line... I even tried one machine shop today and they said they could not do it as well as a brake shop.

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1967 351W Convertible
2000 Mustang GT
 
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I may be misunderstanding you that you clamp the LINE in the vise. If you are talking about clamping a brakeline in a bench vise, I do not know that method. If you are referring to the clamping tool that holds the line, try putting that whole thing in the bench vise and tightening it down on the CLAMP which the line fits in. I think I paid $10 or $12 for my flaring tool and I can tighten that piddly wingnut only so tight. Then I put the whole mess in the bench vise and tighten that. It worked for some pretty thick 3/16" brake line. Good luck.

Dan
Be a good dad to your kids and phone your mom twice a week...
 

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I ended up having to warm up the mat'l and flaring it in stages....just a little at a time with that double flare insert...

I made a half dozen of them (inserts) because they were so easily bent or broken...ended up making one out of annealed 4140....that seemed to do the trick...

I took a little material off the tube holder mating surfaces so the combination of the wingnut and my big C2 Wilton would hold the tube in place....the tube ended up just slightly necked down under the flare but has been acceptable in service...

Definitely not an easy task....

Annealing the tubing a bit with the propane torch seemed to help...

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 
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Whoa! I got "warm up" and "flaring". I even halfway understood "tube holder mating surfaces" (well, first I got excited, then I figgered out what you meant). But "annealing"? Way too compound for my complex brain...(*lol*)

Dan
Be a good dad to your kids and phone your mom twice a week...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried the method you described, of course I abandoned it because I could not get the C clamp type tool to go around the 'holder' while it was in the vice. Perhaps I need to change the angle or the vice clamping point so I can still get the 'C' around it.

This is a real pain, the last thing I wanna have to do is heat that sucker up. I assumed a machine shop could handle a job like this, maybe I just picked the wrong one?

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1967 351W Convertible
2000 Mustang GT
 

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hehehe....that's like warming up the tube, except to a point between straw and blue in color and then letting it cool slowly...

Usually, brake tubing comes annealed but you never know...*G*

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 

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Well as long as you have a "double flaring" tool there should be no problem doing stainless. When you tighten the "block" you use the flaring tool handle to cinch down the wing nuts of the block. Then you follow the procedure for making the double flare. Remember you need the double flare insert to complete the curl. Hope this helps.
 

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Double flaring...yeah, that was the insert I was talking about...I've been making my own for years...got tired of replacing the 3/16" inserts

Sometimes my supplier gets me annealed 304 tubing; sometimes it's normalized....I never know until I start flaring..*G*

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 
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