Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Discussion Starter #1

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,260 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Pretty sure that I wouldn't trust any loop that was bolted to the thin sheet metal floor.

I used one similar but wider to the ebay piece (summit house brand.) I welded a small 5/16" thick plate to both the CE subframe connectors (within 6" of the ujoint yoke.) The loop arms bolt directly to the plates. Makes for a nice clean installation and its easily removable to service the transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,718 Posts
Here is what I did on my 70. It is actually a modified TinMan one that now bolts to the sub frame connectors that has nuts welded in. I did not trust bolting to the floor. Is definitely rigid. Note that per NHRA rules it must be 6" from front U-joint, as Dennis mentioned.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,746 Posts
I also have the Summit loop. It is nice in that it has multiple loop bolt positions so its "adjustable". I have not as yet tied mine in to the subframe connectors. I chose a position that puts the bolts through the floor pan and the seat floor supports and tacked down the top washer and bolt head to the seat supports. It had not occurred to me that this might not be strong enough but I've seen some crazy drive shaft catastrophes at the track. I may might need to make up some of those L brackets for mine too. Maybe I will put that somewhere on my list of a thousand things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
I used the summit loop too. I think I bolted mine to the floor; it was a long time ago. My logic was as long as it stays in the loop nothing is going to try to pull the loop away from the floor. Welding it to the subframe would have been a better idea.

Sent from my LG-D631 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Another problem if you bolt it directly to the floor is when you want to R&R the transmission you'll have added issues in removing the bolts/nuts.

The bolts on the mounts above go into threaded bar stock. They are short unmodified grade 8's from the hardware store. I can remove all 8 attaching bolts in less than 30 seconds from below with the air ratchet. I never need to separate the hoop itself as long as the driveshaft has been removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,597 Posts
I have one that looks exactly like this but paid nearly twice as much:surprise: Frankly feels heavier and stronger than needed.
You will have to cut a couple inches off of the upright of the L but there are plenty of bolt holes anyway. Also a bit of bending was needed but nothing major. I placed it where it didn't ride atop any of the indentations of the floor and it just so happened that the bolts went right through the lip of the seat pan giving a double layer of metal. A couple of big washers cut down on one side and i called it done.
All it needs to do is support the spinning driveshaft if the front u-joint breaks, right? I guess you could put a piece of strap steel on top of the floor if you felt it needed more or if you welded it might give another %% of strength to the chassis.
It will take away the option of tucking the exhaust up into that channel though. A real problem with big pipes on a low car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,808 Posts
I installed this one from Metco Motorsports, specially designed for a 67/68 Mustang and bolts through the trans tunnel.

 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top