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1966 coupe 289 with a newer 302
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi y’all. I’d like to drop the front of my mustang with about 2 inches. The rear looks great already.

Can you advice me what’s the best way to go from a ride quality and ease of install perspective. Which exact parts do you recommend for me to buy?

The car has 400hp with my brand new 347.
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After the Arning drop, a Supercharger might get you where you need to be, otherwise you cut coils. Its close to 2 to 1, cut 1" to drop 2" but I would cut conservatively and try it - and I mean drive the car and let everythng settle before cutting again or you may end up too low. work your way methodically to teh final height. USe a cutoff wheel or saw, no torches unless you use water to cool the rest of the spring.
 

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I would start with the Shelby drop. That will lower you front and improve handling. After that cutting the springs.
 
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Definitely the Shelby drop first. Then evaluate. When I did mine I got about a 3/4" drop. I tried cutting the springs but didn't like the ride. I ended up going with 480# springs and a spacer. I think my stance is about perfect now with the 60 series tires.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Definitely the Shelby drop first. Then evaluate. When I did mine I got about a 3/4" drop. I tried cutting the springs but didn't like the ride. I ended up going with 480# springs and a spacer. I think my stance is about perfect now with the 60 series tires. View attachment 818651
The result looks excellent yes!
 

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I was amazed at how much the front of my son's car lowered even with brand new GT springs and all other components by doing the Shelby drop and loosening the lower control arm bolts, allowing the car to level itself as it sat, then tightening those bolts. We won't even be cutting the coil as I anticipated.
 

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In addition to lowering the car, the Arning drop will significantly improve cornering. Hands down the best suspension mod I've done, especially considering it costs about $20--and that's if you buy the template.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was amazed at how much the front of my son's car lowered even with brand new GT springs and all other components by doing the Shelby drop and loosening the lower control arm bolts, allowing the car to level itself as it sat, then tightening those bolts. We won't even be cutting the coil as I anticipated.
did you measure how much it dropped or do you have an estimate?
 

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1965 Coupe C-Code
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Definitely the Shelby drop first. Then evaluate. When I did mine I got about a 3/4" drop. I tried cutting the springs but didn't like the ride. I ended up going with 480# springs and a spacer. I think my stance is about perfect now with the 60 series tires. View attachment 818651
You are not wrong. That’s one sweet stance.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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This was years ago, but I bought 620 coil springs that were advertised 1” lower than stock and did the Arning mod. I am biased, but I think my front sat perfect with 215/60-15 tires
.
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The Arning drop on the upper control arm will lower the front by about 5/8". You can cut the springs but as SilverblueBP said, do a 1/4 to no more 1/2 coil at a time. Increasing caster will also slightly lower the front. In the end it becomes the sum total of a bunch of things. This is my 66 with the Arning drop, .621", 600# springs with a half coil cut (i run this heavy spring because i have tubular control arms with bearings. I need a stiffer spring to overcome binding from rubber bushings). My car sits a little lower then I had intended. It settled more then I thought with just a half coil. In hindsight I would probably left the spring uncut. But hey i have never bottomed out or scraped anything. I actually have to jack the front up a little bit to put a drain pan under to change oil.
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Before the suspension rebuild...
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After the rebuild / before the alignment...
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And after the alignment...definitely lower...and with much negative camber...
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Thanks for the compliments!
Yes, it was low at all four corners with the completely worn-out factory springs. The front coils even had some twist-in coil spacers and STILL sagged like somebody's grandma's...ummm...buns.
After I rebuilt all of it, including the drop, the front was a lot higher. I think that was due to me just tightening things up as they were just to get it to the shop a couple miles away and the lower control arms need to be fully tightened after the suspension is supporting all the car's weight. Once the alignment was done, the control arms were cranked down at the frame so that is its natural resting position.
The problem isn't the ride height (some rake is nice) it's the negative camber like a bow-leg rice-burner that needs to be corrected. I think once the tire is at zero camber, or at flat, the full tread will be in the contact patch and the tire will bring things up just a hair. The main concerns are SAFETY, handling and not destroying the new tires.
As far as the rear, it is sitting about an inch higher in the rear than my 66. When I get the camber and toe dialed in, a spare and a tank of fuel in the car, we'll see where the ride height is and consider some lowering blocks.
 
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