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I didn't like lowering blocks on mine. It was a big improvement to just go with some mid-eye leafs from Mustangs Unlimited (RIP LOL)
 

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I didn't like lowering blocks on mine. It was a big improvement to just go with some mid-eye leafs from Mustangs Unlimited (RIP LOL)
Neither did I. I have the Scott Drake mid eye 4.5 leaf. When I put the 1" blocks in my car sat dead level with a level on the door sill. It actually looked odd sitting level to me. The deal breaker for me was my first drive and the bottoming out in the rear. That was a big no no. Before putting the blocks in there was 4.25" between the axle tube and bump stop, obviously 3.25" with the blocks. That 1" made a big difference. So no blocks for me.

This is how my car sat with 1" blocks in back
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Have you done the Arning drop to the upper A arms? If not, do that first. Then you could try cutting the coil springs down. 1/4-1/2 a coil at a time. Cut, reinstall, drive car so it all settles. Rinse and repeat till you’re happy.


Mark
The Arning is not a drop. It;s a steering geometry correction. I got NO DROP from doing it.
 

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The Arning is not a drop. It;s a steering geometry correction. I got NO DROP from doing it.
Drilling new holes 1” down for the upper arm absolutely drops the upper arm down 1”. What it actually ends up at the fender lip varies. Yes, it changes the steering geometry. That’s why we all suggest doing it. It would be stupid to cut the springs first.


Mark
 

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I have the kit and it didn't do mine but 1/2 inch. I don't consider that a drop but maybe you do.
Don't cut your springs yes you will get the drop but along with your drop you're weakening your spring tensile strength. We did this in the 50's and 60's when there was no drop spindles available. it would be smarter if your set on going that route take it to a shop that can harden what you've weakened by the heat applied.
 

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@MyFirstCar

Forgive me if I missed it, but did you provide stock or Arning drop-specific alignment specs to the shop? Usually what seems right to them ain’t necessarily right.


Also, what leaf springs did you put on the rear? That ride height is pretty tough, and can’t be an accurate stock facsimile, since they tended to ride low in the back originally.

I tried cutting the springs but didn't like the ride. I ended up going with 480# springs and a spacer. I think my stance is about perfect now with the 60 series tires.
From my experience, if you don’t like the ride with mildly-cut springs, something else may be the problem.

This is subjective of course, but I found that the spring height didn’t have a big impact on compliance. Worth noting that I changed more than one variable: added better spring perches. The later addition of Bilstien Sport shocks made it even better.

I only point this out to say that cut coil springs does not equal a harsh ride
 

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@BlakeTX I used what were supposed to be stock 66 GT 289 with AC springs front and rear. Side by side, the old and new rear have a nearly identical arc but once installed, the new rear picked up the rear end quite a bit. My son likes it after having a car that sagged so long, it rides great and handles fine in the rear, so I'm less concerned about that right now. I gotta get them to do something with the front though. I gave them the street-driven specs listed so many times on VMF and identical to what is available from Daze Cars and so many others, but it's OBVIOUS the car is nowhere near zero to a half-degree of negative camber, and the wheels are toe out instead of toe in. It's much better than when the incompetent fool left the strut rods barely tightened (lucky it didn't break one or both) but it still feels twitchy to me after driving my manual steer car that handles so well for over 30 years. I just have to be off work, during business hours, and past the Thanksgiving holiday for them to open. Hopefully I can get it over there this morning.
 
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