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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Friends

Was it ever possible that the factory produced 4 wheel drum brakes with something more that just a single master can. I remember my high school mates car, he could lock up the brakes on his 4 drums and I dont remember if he had any power equipment.

Is there a design where I can improve braking and I dont need to plumb new brake lines for my single can master . 289 v8 auto.
 

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Yes! The 65-66 cars were available with power drum brakes, and you can get an aftermarket booster to work with yours BUT you don't have to have power assist to lock them up if they're adjusted correctly, the brakes are actually more efficient just before locking up, and most recommend replacing the single bowl master cylinder with a dual bowl. Yes, a power assist dual bowl setup is also available in the aftermarket to work with your existing lines. Just be sure to include and correctly adjust a proportioning valve in line.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes! The 65-66 cars were available with power drum brakes, and you can get an aftermarket booster to work with yours BUT you don't have to have power assist to lock them up if they're adjusted correctly, the brakes are actually more efficient just before locking up, and most recommend replacing the single bowl master cylinder with a dual bowl. Yes, a power assist dual bowl setup is also available in the aftermarket to work with your existing lines. Just be sure to include and correctly adjust a proportioning valve in line.


Well I seem to get advise telling me that I will have to re plumb new brake line connections. If its for the enclosed power unit below that you are talking about,



https://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-brake-booster-conversion-kit-dual-bowl-1965-1966/p/BBCK8/
 

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Is there a design where I can improve braking and I dont need to plumb new brake lines for my single can master . 289 v8 auto.
Yes. It's called properly functioning four wheel manual drum brakes. Really. If the wheel cylinders aren't stuck, you have decent friction material on the shoes, everything is adjusted per spec, it is quite easy to lock up all 4 corners....

Note: Power assist doesn't make the brakes work any better.... it just makes them work without as much pedal effort.

It's a known fact that "discount" brake shoes use cheap friction material. Check out Porterfield or, at a minimum, a quality name RIVETED brake shoe. Make sure the drum surface is not glazed. Check the wear "spots" (6 each) on each backing plate. If scored, smooth or weld up and grind flat to restore a gouged surface.
 

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Ford also sold power booster retrofit kits through the dealer network, so pretty much anything that was non-power could be made power.
 

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I have factory power drum brakes single master cylinder and they will lock up. That being said I also now have Porterfield R4-S brake shoes front and rear. Front ones help stopping maybe 20% better and rear ones maybe 5%. They also last much longer.

Try driving a 66 Mustang during rush hour in Los Angeles. Old brakes would last maybe 18 months. Make sure the backing plates aren't gouged by 50 years of use. I had to have mine welded back up and ground smooth to be like new again.
 

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Hey Friends

Was it ever possible that the factory produced 4 wheel drum brakes with something more that just a single master can. I remember my high school mates car, he could lock up the brakes on his 4 drums and I dont remember if he had any power equipment.

Is there a design where I can improve braking and I dont need to plumb new brake lines for my single can master . 289 v8 auto.
Just to be clear. The dual bowl power set up is only if you have front disks or all disks. There is no dual bowl power setup for drums all the way around. You can have a booster with the single bowl drum master though.


If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.


-Steve
 

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Just to be clear. The dual bowl power set up is only if you have front disks or all disks. There is no dual bowl power setup for drums all the way around. You can have a booster with the single bowl drum master though.


If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.


-Steve
You are wrong. LOL

Starting with the '67 model year, you could have manual drums, power drums, and power discs, all of which came with dual bowl master cylinders from the factory.
 

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Its hard to find riveted brake shoes anymore.

The bonding material is much better now and I hardly ever see a shoe separate from the lining.

I put Wagners all the way around on my 67, I cant say how good they are except I went from 9in brakes to 10in brakes when I went from 4 to 5 lug and the 10in stops much better than the 9in. The 9in were in proper working order so it wasnt a difference between worn and new shoes.

High dollar shoes are probably worth it if you stay 4 wheel drum, if you go front disc, I would stay with a brand name shoe on the rear, unless you have a super heavy car.
 

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My ‘67 A code had a dual master cyl with drums. My ‘65 vert has a single master cyl and I can lock em up without huge effort. I don’t tail gate so it’s rare; I maintain the brake system very well.
 

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Got me on that one!

You are wrong. LOL

Starting with the '67 model year, you could have manual drums, power drums, and power discs, all of which came with dual bowl master cylinders from the factory.


I tend to focus on 66 and earlier. I stand corrected.


-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can do way better than CJs price on that kit.

No new brake lines needed.

The rear line will detach from the 3 port block and be directly plumbed into the front port on the MC.

The now open port on the block will receive the line from the rear port on the MC.

This kit doesnt have the booster but has the needed lines.

https://leedbrakes.com/i-20507148-hydraulic-kit-manual-brakes-64-5-66-ford-mustang.html
Thanks bmcgc !!

Yes Cj I just use for reference I hate CJ.

This is something to look into! Did you do this conversion yourself on your car? It's hard to guess the turns on those lines but the text sells it like its plug and play. I doubt that. I guess I will contact the seller.


Would this new master be usable in the future for another modification. Changing to Front discs. I guess then I would need a proportion valve but I thought the master would need changing into a different unit.

Guess I would love to find out if you did this mod yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You can do way better than CJs price on that kit.

No new brake lines needed.

The rear line will detach from the 3 port block and be directly plumbed into the front port on the MC.

The now open port on the block will receive the line from the rear port on the MC.

This kit doesnt have the booster but has the needed lines.

https://leedbrakes.com/i-20507148-hydraulic-kit-manual-brakes-64-5-66-ford-mustang.html


Thanks BMcgc

I was wondering if anyone had experience with upgrading from a single round can Master Cylinder to a Dual bowl. Mr bmcgc offers / highlights a kit listed in the link below. Its a temping upgrade but I was curious if simply the non power master dual was enough of a upgrade to make a magic difference to brake improvements.





This kit doesnt have the booster but has the needed lines.

https://leedbrakes.com/i-20507148-hy...d-mustang.html
 

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Thanks BMcgc

I was wondering if anyone had experience with upgrading from a single round can Master Cylinder to a Dual bowl. Mr bmcgc offers / highlights a kit listed in the link below. Its a temping upgrade but I was curious if simply the non power master dual was enough of a upgrade to make a magic difference to brake improvements.

This kit doesnt have the booster but has the needed lines.

https://leedbrakes.com/i-20507148-hy...d-mustang.html
A change from a single bowl to a dual bowl master cylinder is going to make your brakes work ZERO percent better. In fact, they MAY work "less better".

Fix whatever is wrong with the brake system FIRST, then determine if you need to change to a power assist. The change to a dual bowl is a no-brainer from a safety standpoint, but should be independent of getting the system to work correctly, first.
 

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Some points to consider:

Your car has made it 50+ years on whats in it now.

You have a backup brake, your parking brake. Over the years I have had to stop a vehicle several times when I lost all brakes. Thats why i keep the parking brake in proper working order.

My 65 has been upgraded to manual disc/drum. It stops great, pedal pressure is fine, my wife has no issues driving it. Fairly common and simple mod to upgrade to disc and a dual bowl master. In 66 you could get a disc/drum manual setup from the factory and those parts are still available.
 
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