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Incorporated Sell Out
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, thanks again to my brother. He popped down to MD today to help out with DT and we got the motor out.

http://www.dodgestang.com/images/repull4.jpg

It only took a couple of hours, so we think we are becoming old pros at the whole cleveland in a 65 deal ;) Plus we managed to get it out with the tranny left in place :) which was a big plus.

So we pulled the heads. :(
And found a blown head gasket, prior to pulling the motor, we had fired the motor again and it starting spitting water out the exhasut leak, so we pesimistically thought uhh ohh cracked head/block or both. So when we pulled the head off and found this, we felt much better.

http://www.dodgestang.com/images/repull1.jpg
http://www.dodgestang.com/images/repull2.jpg

While inspecting the bores, we noticed one of the cylinders showed the indication that the ring hadn't seated, and sure enough, cylinder 5 had a bad first row ring, luckily everything was ok :)

So then we started pulling rob bearing caps. And also on cylinder #5, the bearing was spun. So it follows logically that this spun bearing probly occured at the dyno or on the way homa and that would explain the low oil pressure reading at idle. Everything else looks good and the bearings themsalves aren't rshowing any damage. So the plan is to replace the rings on #5, replace the bearings, and botl it back together.
 

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Hate to bust your bubble but #5's rod will need to be resized if nothing else . Id also replace the rod bolts on #5 . The crank likely will need to be polished or reground for #5's journal .
Id also worry about your block deck being flat and the head being flat . Leave the pistons in if they are and measure them to find the dept in the block they are riding so you can have the block decked if needed . Id put a straight edge across the block and head to check it (use a feeler gauge) . Id also think of upgrading your hardware . You might think of using screw in studs for the heads (I prefer ARP Fastners) and using the ARP wave-loc's on the rods and get them resized when doing so .
 

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Well, it is good to hear that you have a plan.......

At the MCA show in Dearborn, Mi this weekend there was an early Mustang with a Cleveland in it. It had stock exhaust manifolds on it and the shock towers were flattened just a bit. They did a very nice job with it. Everything fit very nicely.......

Gary......::
 

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Nick,

I would follow Lemondrop's advise. There's a reason why the HG on #5 let go. Find it now, or we'll again be exchanging emails in a few months. I would suggest that it would be a very good investment to pull the crank, have it sized and polished, size all the rods, and install all new bearings. Check that the deck and heads are flat. Make certain that the bores were not nicked with debris. You've done all the dirty work, don't try to save a few bucks now.

You had also mentioned something about a cam in a prior post. Some professional C headwork and a cam would make a night-and-day difference in that motor. You've got a very easy 100rwhp waiting to be unleashed. Might as well turn a negative into a positive..
 

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Just wanted to add, since you'll have #5 out to re-ring and re-size the rod, make sure you re-hone the bore with a proper grit flexhone for the prospective ring package you'll be using.

Also, be sure to inspect the crank carefully where the bearing spun.
 

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if you DON'T go COMPLETELY through that engine and recheck everything you'll be wasting your time, trust me! and may I suggest you get a set of GAPLESS rings for it if you didn't already have them. they are expensive but well worth it as I can attest to it in the 331 stroker I built for my falcon. we had a similiar problem(the bearing was actually the wrong undersize) and I just took everything back to the machine shop to have it ALL checked. after the RE-rebuild I used the GAPLESS rings and it made a BIG difference in OIL consumption and they keep the compression where it belongs, in the chamber!! but at least have the crank polished again and check that block and the heads, they may need milled a little. a little extra time well spent now will mean less hassle later. my .02
 

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oh and be careful on the head "stud" idea because I think they might interfere with the shock tower. they tend to "stick up" a bit more than bolts. new ARP bolts maybe ? oh and be sure to check the cam bearings after an oiling problem, they may need replaced also(I would)
 

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Just when I start thinking about rebuilding a motor myself (something I have never done) I read a post like this........
 

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Incorporated Sell Out
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Discussion Starter #10
There isn't much bad news in this post.
The thing to remember by building this motor ourselves, we saved well in excess fo $2000-2500 in labor charges.
The $400 or so in additional machine shop charges for this little problem still leave us well below that level ;)
 

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Do it right or sweat everytime you approach red line. Why defer a desired cam change if you already have the engine out and apart? Just do it! (as Arnold would say).

Re: the rings, do you know if they were installed dry?

PS I'm reringing, micropolishing, etc. right now myself after my dizzy gear suicide-bombed my new cam, so I'm with you in spirit (one of the empty engine-bay crowd).
 
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