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Well, I've finally gotten my car back together after what has been a crazy long ride called this summer.

I started the teardown back in late May / Early June. My plan was to install the 67 dual chamber master cylinder and a Wilwood prop valve to replace my stock single chamber MC and the K-H prop valve. I would custom bend the necessary lines to make all the connections.

Well, this thing called work has been a continuing 'get in the way' problem and I finally got around to working on this over the last few weeks.
I fabricated an aluminum adapter plate to mount the Wilwood prop valve using the existing holes of the K-H prop valve and bent all the lines to fit (line to rear breaks only needed bending and fit into Wilwood prop valve without cuts or serious bends).
Saturday, I got it all together including bench bleeding the master cylinder first with denatured alcohol (to get the DOT 3 out) and then with DOT 6 fluid.
Yesterday, HWMOBOU assisted in bleeding the brakes and I did a road test on it. Pedal is so firm - it is great. Also, had to set the prop valve one turn from minimum pressure to rear end to get all 4 tires to squeal under panic stop.

I'm taking the car to LA today for work and we'll see how it goes...
 

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this thing called work has been a continuing 'get in the way' problem
I HATE it when that happens :p

Way to go on the brakes ::
 

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Good deal, Steve. I thought of you yesterday when I put my new PowerMaster alternator into my '66. Since you have to clock it differently from the way it ships to have the power post clear the engine block, it reminded me of you and your alternator problems at the Knotts show. And, yes, I used the paper clip trick to hold the brushes in place ::
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glad the trick assisted you.

I have since ditched my Powermaster alternator as I've had numerous bearing problems with it. I've since installed an Autolite heavy duty alternator that is clocked exactly the way I need. It appears to be working out well.
 
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