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Discussion Starter #1
I know lots of you are running EFI systems with dual lines, and most EFI fuel tanks or cells have the lines running to the top of the tank.

I'm running a pair of braided lines (-6AN) from the engine to the rear and the only question I have is:
What is the best way, or where should I penetrate existing metal, to get the lines from the outside of the car into the trunk?

Don't think it matters but this is a '67 Convertible, there is less space behind the back seat area.
 

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I have a return style carbed system, using an Aeromotive EFI tank and a Aeromotive FPR designed to take the 39PSI down to 6 PSI. I ran the feed and return lines along the Passenger side subframe connector, then went through the trunk floor with some bulkhead connectors. I have a piece of 18 gauge steel that will go over the tank and lines And screw into the trunk floor just above the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Why not look for a fuel system where you don't need to cut up the trunk?
I have that now :)

I did look at in-tank pumps that use the stock "outlet" that also contains the sending unit, even found one with provision for a return. But I didn't like the small inlet/outlet openings, I think they were 5/16th and 1/4, and none of those allow for a vent other than the spring in my pop-open gas "cap".
then went through the trunk floor with some bulkhead connectors
You came straight up through the floor on what, the raised area to the side of the well the tank sits in? Guess I could use some angled connectors and do that, probably a pair of 60-degree connectors.

My external pump inlet/outlet/vent is designed to have lines coming out flat, say 90 degrees parallel to the road. Didn't want it leaving the trunk near the driveshaft tunnel since I have the exhaust near that on the centerline. If I do too far over to the passenger side I could run into suspension (springs and tracbars), so I was thinking of leaving the trunk heading towards the quarter window, but I have hydraulic lines and rams, plus the convertible arms.

I got plenty to do while I figure this out, but I need to decide before I can cut the fuel lines to the right length.

If anyone has done this I'd love to hear details and see pictures if you have them.
 

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I have that now :)

I did look at in-tank pumps that use the stock "outlet" that also contains the sending unit, even found one with provision for a return. But I didn't like the small inlet/outlet openings, I think they were 5/16th and 1/4, and none of those allow for a vent other than the spring in my pop-open gas "cap".

You came straight up through the floor on what, the raised area to the side of the well the tank sits in? Guess I could use some angled connectors and do that, probably a pair of 60-degree connectors.

My external pump inlet/outlet/vent is designed to have lines coming out flat, say 90 degrees parallel to the road. Didn't want it leaving the trunk near the driveshaft tunnel since I have the exhaust near that on the centerline. If I do too far over to the passenger side I could run into suspension (springs and tracbars), so I was thinking of leaving the trunk heading towards the quarter window, but I have hydraulic lines and rams, plus the convertible arms.

I got plenty to do while I figure this out, but I need to decide before I can cut the fuel lines to the right length.

If anyone has done this I'd love to hear details and see pictures if you have them.
I went through on the side just above the tank, used a pair AN-8 90° bulkhead fittings. This is what I did for the roll over valve/vent:
 

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Mine was put in on the wall in front of the tank. Still need to install a grommet around the lines
90.jpg
 
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My last tank had the lines positioned in the center/front of the top of the tank. The first iteration of the fuel lines had them going out of the trunk directly in front of the tank (see Pic 1 below).. That setup was great until I realized that the differential was hitting the fuel line fitting when I hit a nice bump in the road. After that fun little discovery, I offset the trunk exit to one side so it wouldn't interfere with the differential pumpkin. Sorry, I don't have a pic of the revised offset exit lines.

Although I now have a tank with the exit in the stock location, the way I am running the lines to the engine hasn't changed much. Currently, I have all the lines running behind the subframe connectors on the passenger side (see Pic 2 below).

Things I learned:
  • If you can, use the copper-nickel alloy lines. You will never need to replace them and they are easy to bend
  • Don't waste money on AN fittings unless your just looking for bling. Get JIC fittings instead. JIC fittings is a hydraulic industry standard. And while the standard isn't rated for aircraft like the AN standard is, JIC fittings are more than adequate for fuel lines for a car... they also cost less then half what an AN fitting will set you back and that adds up over the cost of a fuel system. I got all my stuff at www.discounthydraulichose.com
  • If I had to do it over again, I'd run the fuel lines through the transmission tunnel like OEM
  • Getting a high quality flare tool (if you use the copper-nickel lines) is the best purchase you'll ever make. Since I also bend my own brake lines, I got the Eastwood flaring tool for professionals, but there are other tools that don't cost as much.
Hope this helps.
-Shannon


Pic 1: Old version of Fuel lines:


Pic 2: Current fuel lines.. note fuel filter on the far right mounted to the frame.
 

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Do you know about this kind of tank? It has an internal regulator and not one hole anywhere on the car will need to be cut for this system. Uses one 3/8 fuel line. You might need to provide more venting. Holley Sniper VK040044 1964-1970 Mustang/Cougar Fuel Tank and EFI Module Combo with 22 Gallon Tank
I think the Aeromotive Stealth II is a better setup and all your lines come out in the stock location. I also like that if you need to service the pump, it still comes out the top. Thats what I put in my 64 and am Very happy with it.
 

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I think the Aeromotive Stealth II is a better setup and all your lines come out in the stock location. I also like that if you need to service the pump, it still comes out the top. Thats what I put in my 64 and am Very happy with it.
I prefer the earlier style Aeromotive tank because I prefer to keep the fuel lines and brake lines out of the driveshaft tunnel. The tunnel is small and a 3.5" driveshaft will take up most of the room. Also the stock location fuel lines can interfere with the Watts link frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is the fuel tank I'm replacing my stock 16 gallon OEM style tank with...
763338

It is a 69/70 tank at 22 gallons that fits the same bolt pattern including fill neck.

The pump I'm installing is a new generation Hyperfuel (Fitech) that fits the smaller bolt pattern...

763339

I have my battery mounted behind the RR wheel, I think I can get the lines through the little "shelf" (raised area) on each side of the well the tank sits in. Will have to measure it to be sure.

763340
 

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That is a slick install!
Rusty

I went through on the side just above the tank, used a pair AN-8 90° bulkhead fittings. This is what I did for the roll over valve/vent:
 

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I prefer the earlier style Aeromotive tank because I prefer to keep the fuel lines and brake lines out of the driveshaft tunnel. The tunnel is small and a 3.5" driveshaft will take up most of the room. Also the stock location fuel lines can interfere with the Watts link frame.
I reused the stock feed line as my return and just ziptied my new braided feed to the original feed line about every 4 inches. No holes to drill and plenty of room, I'm a big fan of the factory location on the tank for lines. On my 69 Mach I'm running a Spectra tank because it was the first to have everything in a stock location, the Spectra tank though has other issues to deal with so I went Aeromotive this time.
 
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