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I was out of line on how I worded my response, sorry. I would be afraid to have fuel lines at 58 psi in my trunk. Super easy to change the pump though!
^^ I agree, there is literally no reason to put fuel lines in your trunk when you have aftermarket tanks that use the stock sender location. The only time this changes is if you are making more than 450HP...5/16" lines can supply up to 600HP worth of fuel so at 75% capacity is when you need to start thinking about upgrading...even then, its preferable to mod the sender unit for a larger line than run lines into your trunk....they are often just soldered or brazed into place on the sender "cap". As far as vents go...if you want a vent, you can always install one on a new tank without too much work. The only time the top-mount tanks become worth it is in high HP applications. I have also never been a fan of unnecessary bulkhead fittings in fuel systems(and you do need a bulkhead fitting so you dont risk chafing) since its just another place for a potential leak.
 

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^^ I agree, there is literally no reason to put fuel lines in your trunk when you have aftermarket tanks that use the stock sender location. The only time this changes is if you are making more than 450HP...5/16" lines can supply up to 600HP worth of fuel so at 75% capacity is when you need to start thinking about upgrading...even then, its preferable to mod the sender unit for a larger line than run lines into your trunk....they are often just soldered or brazed into place on the sender "cap". As far as vents go...if you want a vent, you can always install one on a new tank without too much work. The only time the top-mount tanks become worth it is in high HP applications. I have also never been a fan of unnecessary bulkhead fittings in fuel systems(and you do need a bulkhead fitting so you dont risk chafing) since its just another place for a potential leak.
Aeromotive makes a tank with 6AN fittings out the bottom of the tank for early mustangs. It should feed all but the extreme builds, and makes plumbing a breeze.
 

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Here's mine. I'm fabbing a 18ga sheet metal cover that will go over the top of the tank and hide all the plumbing. I used AN-8 bulkhead fittings to go through the side wall. The rubber line goes to the vent/rollover valve
 

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I hope everyone is using PTFE (Teflon) lined hoses. I've made 3 sets of hoses. First out of stainless braid I had laying around, it seeped vapours straight away.
Second out of braided nitrile rubber hose, it seeped vapours after a week.
 

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I hope everyone is using PTFE (Teflon) lined hoses. I've made 3 sets of hoses. First out of stainless braid I had laying around, it seeped vapours straight away.
Second out of braided nitrile rubber hose, it seeped vapours after a week.
Mine are all Fragola PTFE or stainless steel hard lines, except for the rubber vent line.
 

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Before I moved to the Aeromotive Stealth II tank which has the output lines in the OEM location, I had a tank with out lines coming out of the trunk. I feel that, if done properly, the lines coming out of the trunk can be as safe as the stock locations.

I originally used PTFE lines.. note that most of those have a useable life of 7 to 10 years. When I had to replace the original PTFE lines I went with NiCopp (Copper/Nickel) hard lines with JIC fittings. The cost for NiCopp lines is A LOT less than a high quality PTFE line, but it might involve more initial setup cost if you don't have a tool to flare the lines. I personally use Eastwood's flare tool since I usually bent my own brake lines and fuel lines, but there are less expensive options if you only need it for this job.

NiCopp lines are EASY to bend and will last longer than the rest of the car. JIC fittings are interchangeable with AN fittings but are 50% (or more) less money. JIC Fitting Info

-Shannon
 
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