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Discussion Starter #1
This is a dumb question, I get that. But I need to attach a door VIN plate to a car I purchased to get the vin inspection done. Hopefully tomorrow. The replacment plate from ford (marti) is with it, old one lost when painted. Buck plate is there with correct vin, but I need to get this door plate attached.

This is a 69 mach 1, not that that matter, but just in case. I have been asking around for a rivet tool, but havent found someone yet.

Is the rivet snd tool all one standard size? I have very limited experience with rivets and rivet tools.

Is this just a quick attach with standard rivet gun?

Please let me know if there is anything I should know before attempting.

Thanks.
 

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No rivet tool is required. A flat ended rod, bolt, or pin is all that's needed. What you need to do is flatten, not pierce, the hump inside the rivet.

However, you are laboring under a misconception. The plate on the door is NOT a VIN plate, and in fact has no legal status whatsoever. It even says so, right on the tag, which in reality is a Warranty Tag, used only by dealers to identify trim, paint, and certain options...

738577


The legal VIN on a 69 Mustang is at the front edge of the dash pad, visible through the windshield.

738578
 

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I thought Marti also sold the "correct" rivets for the door plate.?? If correct doesn't matter a normal rivet should work.
Fyi. In CA, they didn't really pay Attention to a vin on the door since that can be replaced. Mine door doesn't even match my apron vin.
 

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What 22Gt said. Did you get two rivets from Marti? They are unique.
As long as you have the vin plate on the dash, you shouldn't need the door tag, cos it's not a legal vin.
 

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The OEM-correct warranty rivets are a common item. Available from most any Mustang supplier, or data plate maker, such as AG Backeast.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I understand what you are all saying, but the winshield tag is not visable. Whether it got trapped when the new dashpad was done or not, there is not one visable.

The DMV wants to do a vin inspection. And with the door plate and buck tag I am thinking that that is sufficient. I was told by the DMV some time ago it would be, but we will see.

I would have to see the rivets to see how you mean to install them. And it is poasible the rivets are with them. I will have to check again.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Assuming that you have the rivets and that you truly must attach a Data Plate, simply turn around any old 3/16" drill bit and place the blunt end in the rivet. Give the other end a gentle tap with a hammer.
The good old way. :)
 

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You would be WAY better off observing the partial VIN stamped in the fender apron.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Super.

Well they can see the buck plate and you can see part of the vin, but the engine code doesnt match, altho everything else does.

Title matches, marti, buck plate, door tag, and most of fender vin with exception the engine part. This is a 351 windsor car and the vin on fender appears to have an S.
 

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Title matches, Marti, buck plate, door tag, and most of fender vin with exception the engine part. This is a 351 Windsor car and the vin on fender appears to have an S.
So it's an H or M code. Sounds like a factory apron stamping "oopsie" and those happened on occasion.
I understand what you are all saying, but the windshield tag is not visible. Whether it got trapped when the new dashpad was done or not, there isn't one visible.
Pull the pad and see if it's there on the driver's side. As 22GT already pointed out, that's the legal VIN.
 

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No way I'd show them a vin that doesn't match the title. Depending on your state that could cause all kinds of issues/questions. A vin inspector should be looking the verify the legal vin on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And I guess the question is what if the VIN tag isnt there, and the buck plate is all we have.

The car was registered snd titled before as it is. I am hoping the vin inspection looks at the buck plate and door tag.

Reality is they may not know better anyway. On my 67 there is no windshield tag at all. Just s door tag if i am correct. How would some kid at the dmv know that 69 is any different. I can just telk them that to my knowlwdge the tag is on door and buck plate. End of sentence.

See what happens.

Not sure what they will say but who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And i was trying to run over to dmv to get the registration after rhe car is delivered from transport this morning.

Maybe a lot to cram in, but was gonna try since it is being delivered bear dmv.

Sounds like I may need to get it back first and look under dash pad.

How difficult is that gonna be to check? I cant imagine thats a quick process.
 

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The dash pad should have a cut-out for the visible VIN. If you're missing the windshield VIN then pray the DMV inspector doesn't know his job. This can also come to haunt you down the road should you decide to sell the car some day. It also doesn't matter what is installed for an engine.... what the DMV is looking for is a VIN on the chassis that matches the documentation (title, bills of sale, etc.).
 

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The dash pad should have a cut-out for the visible VIN. If you're missing the windshield VIN then pray the DMV inspector doesn't know his job. This can also come to haunt you down the road should you decide to sell the car some day. It also doesn't matter what is installed for an engine.... what the DMV is looking for is a VIN on the chassis that matches the documentation (title, bills of sale, etc.).
69/70 does not have a dash pad cutout for the VIN. Its just a tin tab riveted to the upper inner cowl. It can be bent and go under the dash pad when the pad is installed so it will not show. the pad is easy to remove, but has a few screws that have to be removed. Warning, someone may have done this on purpose to hide the VIN.

3 across the top edge close to the windshield.
On each side, the trim needs to be removed, 2 screws each trim, that exposes the 1 screw that holds the end of the pad down.
2 screws above the radio that holds the center section down.
3 screws each side, the upper edge of the instrument cluster and the passenger clock module.

The pad lifts up and pulls back.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks. Just got the car today. Going to try to take a look at this on monday when I can get back over to it. I will try to remove thebpad if i can do it in a reasonable amount of time.

If not, I may end up just putti g the door plate on it and going with that and a buck tag.

So for the first time I was able to get a good look at the fender VIN, and the character that is wrong, is foe sure a "6" where the "M" code normally would be. Every other number is correct, except that. Seems strange?

The dash pad removsl should take what? 20 mins?

Thanks again.
 
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