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Duraspark 2 Install

1415 Views 52 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  frankstang65
Ok everyone so after going back and forth on whether to buy the pertronix 3 module and deal with that again or doing the Duraspark 2 conversion I have decided to covert to Duraspark 2. I just have a few questions to ask.

  1. Can I still use my coil? Pertronix 40,000 Volt 1.5 OHM with the Duraspark 2 setup?
  2. Do I need to disconnect the Pink Resistor from the ignition switch and run a new 12 volt line?
  3. Can I use the (Distributor Part # 12127) that my brother gave me on a 1987 5.0 roller converted to carburetor? I think the gear " Steel" is compatible. Correct me if I'm wrong?
  4. Is it worth buying the Painless Harness? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812
  5. Is there a difference between these two modules besides price?
  6. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-lx203t
  7. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/ignition-modules?fr=part-
  8. type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=dy893
  9. These are the specs of the motor that it will be feeding. Any benefits to getting the distributor recurved or should i just leave it alone and see how it runs?
Stock bottom end
Ford Motorsport E-303 cam
Ford Motorsport 1.72 roller Rockers
Heads are World products Windsor Jr. Heads – 1.94/1.60, 58cc chamber

I'm I missing anything else?

Thanks in advance(y)
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Ok everyone so after going back and forth on whether to buy the pertronix 3 module and deal with that again or doing the Duraspark 2 conversion I have decided to covert to Duraspark 2. I just have a few questions to ask.

1. Can I still use my coil? Pertronix 40,000 Volt 1.5 OHM with the Duraspark 2 setup?
Yes.

2. Do I need to disconnect the Pink Resistor from the ignition switch No, Leave all that stuff alone. ...and run a new 12 volt line? Yes, but just to your ECU, whether it be a DurasparkII, GM or Mopar. Bring a new wire from the Ignition switch "C" terminal through the firewall or use a relay triggered by a "switched ignition" source, such as the back-feed to the solenoid "I" terminal.

3. Can I use the (Distributor Part # 12127) that my brother gave me on a 1987 5.0 roller converted to carburetor? I think the gear " Steel" is compatible. Correct me if I'm wrong?
As long as it's a DurasparkII, with a vacuum advance unit.

4. Is it worth buying the Painless Harness? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812
Not in my opinion, plus you can't use the coil connector with your Pertronix Coil.

5. Is there a difference between these two modules besides price?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-lx203t
https://www.summitracing.com/search...eywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=dy893
Yes. One is a "DIY-er Grade" and the other is a genuine Ford product. Be sure you get the right ECU for the distributor being used. There are 5-pin modules for distributors with a 3-pin plug and 8-pin modules for distributors with a 4-pin plug.

6. These are the specs of the motor that it will be feeding. Any benefits to getting the distributor recurved or should i just leave it alone and see how it runs?
There are ALWAYS benefits to having the advance curves tailored to the specific build.

Stock bottom end
Ford Motorsport E-303 cam
Ford Motorsport 1.72 roller Rockers
Heads are World products Windsor Jr. Heads – 1.94/1.60, 58cc chamber

I'm I missing anything else?

Thanks in advance(y)
If going the Ford route.
Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram Schematic



If going the Mopar route.
Font Parallel Schematic Illustration Engineering
 

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There’s a white wire on the Duraspark plug. It’s to retard the timing while cranking. Don’t connect it. When I did it would only fire the coil while cranking and of course the engine ran. As soon as I released the key to run, it died. It starts fine. In all honesty I never pursued it or what the difference is or where. It’s potentially a nice feature and maybe one day I’ll look into it.
 

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There’s a white wire on the Duraspark plug. It’s to retard the timing while cranking. Don’t connect it. When I did it would only fire the coil while cranking and of course the engine ran. As soon as I released the key to run, it died. It starts fine.
IIMO, this is poor advice. There are 2 ignition circuits - one for starting/cranking, one for running. The starting circuit powers the coil from the brown wire that comes from the solenoid. This provides a full 12V while cranking. The white wire to the module should be connected to this circuit. The red wire should go to a 12V "accessory" power source that is active when the key is in "on" or "acc". This is the power source that will be active for the engine to run. If you only have the module white wire connected to the brown wire circuit, the engine will crank and fire, but will shut off when you release the key to the "on" position.
 

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@Woodchuck has it correct. The white wire goes to the “S” post of the solenoid, not the “I” post/brown wire. The “I” post will always have ~6v when running as it’s connected to the coil’s positive post. “Seeing” 6v might make the box think that you’re trying to start the engine and retard the spark when you don’t want that.
 

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So does it look like I could possibly find new connectors for this setup? And is it worth using the distributor in the video?
It's probably easier (and cheaper) on a "conversion" to buy the individual plugs ("repair connectors") and make up your own harness. You'll need the 4-pin and 2-pin female module connectors and the 3-pin female distributor connector, a ring terminal or 90* push-on for the ignition coil and, if I were doing it, male and female bullet connectors for the connection to the existing under-hood wiring.

As for the distributor in the video, it's lacking the vacuum advance unit and I'd pull the breaker plate to see what's flopping around below that seems to be catching something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's probably easier (and cheaper) on a "conversion" to buy the individual plugs ("repair connectors") and make up your own harness. You'll need the 4-pin and 2-pin female module connectors and the 3-pin female distributor connector, a ring terminal or 90* push-on for the ignition coil and, if I were doing it, male and female bullet connectors for the connection to the existing under-hood wiring.

Would you happen to have some part numbers I could use to order those module connectors?


As for the distributor in the video, it's lacking the vacuum advance unit and I'd pull the breaker plate to see what's flopping around below that seems to be catching something.
I have pulled the vacuum advance unit to clean it up. I will be pulling the breaker plate to see what's going on.

Thanks again Bart for your help!! (y)(y)
 

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+1 on all of Woodchuck's input.
After my third MSD failure in 15 years I switched over to a Duraspark system. I love it, especially the white 'retard' wire.
I have to ask - why the Summit boxes? I used Ford blue grommet boxes and repair connectors from RockAuto.com. I haven't compared, but I bet they are cheaper. After all of the MSD issues I went off the shelf so I can get parts anywhere - even a junkyard if need be.
 

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IIMO, this is poor advice. There are 2 ignition circuits - one for starting/cranking, one for running. The starting circuit powers the coil from the brown wire that comes from the solenoid. This provides a full 12V while cranking. The white wire to the module should be connected to this circuit. The red wire should go to a 12V "accessory" power source that is active when the key is in "on" or "acc". This is the power source that will be active for the engine to run. If you only have the module white wire connected to the brown wire circuit, the engine will crank and fire, but will shut off when you release the key to the "on" position.
The S terminal on the solenoid only has 12 volt when the key is in “start”. When key is is in “run” no power to it. 12 volt to the coil when starting is a function of the ignition switch. So when the key is in start, 12 volt is supplied to the S terminal to engage the solenoid and feed the coil. No I did not have the white wire connected to brown. Wired like it’s shown to the S terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea I was kind of disappointed with the quality of the Pertronix 3 Distributor. After talking to the tech guy yesterday which he was very helpful the final outcome was just replacing the damaged module. As of right now there is no one to field test those yet..
+1 on all of Woodchuck's input.
After my third MSD failure in 15 years I switched over to a Duraspark system. I love it, especially the white 'retard' wire.
I have to ask - why the Summit boxes? I used Ford blue grommet boxes and repair connectors from RockAuto.com. I haven't compared, but I bet they are cheaper. After all of the MSD issues I went off the shelf so I can get parts anywhere - even a junkyard if need be.
I looked up my Rockauto order for the Duraspark conversion; here's what I used:

Module: More Information for MOTORCRAFT DY893

4 pin connectors: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP4735

3 pin connector: More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP3935
Is there any other connectors I need to order?
 

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I'm running duraspark off the pink wire...no issues. I use the white wire for cranking retard. I made my own connectors using advice from woodchuck...or someone on using a 4 flat trailer plug to make conections. I put a 4 flat on box and on dizzy, then use a 4 flat extension harness to connect the two harnesses together. It makes it easy to switch out boxes if one goes bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm running duraspark off the pink wire...no issues. I use the white wire for cranking retard. I made my own connectors using advice from woodchuck...or someone on using a 4 flat trailer plug to make conections. I put a 4 flat on box and on dizzy, then use a 4 flat extension harness to connect the two harnesses together. It makes it easy to switch out boxes if one goes bad.
Do you have any pictures of your setup/ wiring?
 

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I will need to take some pics after work today...or tomorrow. I am using the mustang steve wiring diagram... but I use the pink wire and power the box and coil from the pink wire.

I use these on the dizzy and box

Product Font Screenshot Rectangle Wood

And I use one of these to connect box and dizzy once I have added the 4 flat to them:

Circuit component Electronic component Cable Electric blue Wire


I run the 3 wires of dizzy thru the plug and I think also the ground wire. I run a separate wire for power that splits from the box and coil and plugs into the pink resistor elbow boot. I use a bullet connector and cram it in there.
 
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