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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 69 351w that I plan on running 12 volts to the coil splicing into the pink wire on the back of the ignition switch. I'm using a remans FORD Duraspark distributor and module with the proper curve. I need a coil and was wondering how many ohms it should have to avoid needing a ballast resistor?

I have heard the coil has to be 3.0 ohms of internal resistance or you would need a ballast resistor on the + side Or have also heard at least 1.5 ohms coil is what I need to not have a ballest resistor.

Can anyone clear this up for me?

Many Thanks
 

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I run both the box and coil off pink wire. No issues. Most will argue this. I’ve done the ignition switch/cut resistor. It’s a pain. Now I just use pink wire. I use the duraspark coil. No ballast.
 

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Yep, the pink (resistance) wire is Ford's answer to GM's ballast resistor.
 

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I have a 69 351w that I plan on running 12 volts to the coil splicing into the pink wire on the back of the ignition switch. WHY?
The DurasparkII system is designed to run with a ballast and the starter solenoid performs the same ignition bypass function as it does with a points-style ignition to maintain ignition system output during the heavy electrical draw of cranking the starter motor.

Increasing the voltage to the coil doesn't necessarily amount to any performance increase any more than running premium gas when your engine runs fine on regular, drinking expensive filtered city tap water sold under a fancy name devised by Coke or Pepsi, or thinking that if "a little catsup is good, twice the catsup must be twice as good" (only applies to french fries though).
 

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I use the pink-wire feed to also activate a relay to provide a full 12v to the Duraspark box. The wiring harness/kit I bought had a ballast resister with instructions to bypass the pink wire, but I did not do that. I don't have any problems.
Edit: Got the harness/kit and coil from NPD.
 

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Yep, the pink (resistance) wire is Ford's answer to GM's ballast resistor.
Ford used a ceramic ballast resistor when the 12V electrical system was introduced in the mid-50's up until they switched to the Pink wire in the early 60's. My '58 F600 with a Y-block had one. I don't know which year the Pink wire was introduced but obviously it was prior to '64.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are so many opinions its hard to keep it all straight, would appreicate clairity So are you guys saying I dont need to bypass the pink wire but just use it as it has the resistor in the wire? but then it wont get the full 12 volts. Or should I just go with first suggestion and bypass the pink wire and use the matching red grommet module and coil?
 

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Take your pick. How hard do you want to make it. I take power wire for box n coil, put them in a bullet connector and stick it in the boot of the pink wire and done....move on.
 

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The Red Grommet Duraspark is a completely different animal than the run of the mill blue grommet. About halfway down, George P explains it well.

 

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i use a 1969 duraspark 1 distributor with a msd 6al box. It works great and no need for a ballast resistor. I use the msd durspark adapter, the box plugs right into the box and nothing extra to wire except the msd box. Starts amazing and runs great
 
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