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Discussion Starter #1
My son's high school buddy is performing a Duraspark conversion on his Mustang. He asked me if connecting the red power wire from the module directly to the positive battery post (+) would suffice as the "constant" 12V source (similar to how my MSD 6AL box gets its power) rather than using the ignition "run" post.

Thanks for your help
 

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No. It needs to be a keyed source. Not saying it won't work temporarily, but the control module probably won't like 12v being applied 24-7.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - that's what I assumed but was not certain. Any other options besides feeding off the ignition switch (such as the voltage regulator)?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. I gave him Mustang Steve's conversion schematic which he was working off of when he asked me about connecting to the battery. Which post/wire from the voltage regulator did you use?
 

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I just looked at the car....I tapped the green wire with the red stripe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just looked at the car....I tapped the green wire with the red stripe.
He tested this wire today at the voltage regulator on his car is it does NOT have power during the "start" function. So I guess we're back to where we started from - doing it the Mustang Steve way. However, it is truly necessary to disconnect the pink wire or can we just tap into it and run the red power wire to the module and still have 12V? I've seen two different versions of the Mustang Steve diagrahm (pink removed and pink tapped). In addition, I've read posts on this forum of wiring it both ways (disconnecting the pink and tapping into it).

Don't mean to stir things up, but what's truly correct?
 

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Mustang Steve's wiring is correct, but notice it is using a high performance coil. The box doesn't care about the resistor wire, it's the coil. If you use a coil that has it's own built in resistance the pink wire is not needed. Here is the correct way of wiring it, but does involve getting back to the ignition switch. Granted, a pain in the tail with a Mustang. Using a MSD box is another story.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mustang Steve's wiring is correct, but notice it is using a high performance coil. The box doesn't care about the resistor wire, it's the coil. If you use a coil that has it's own built in resistance the pink wire is not needed.
Now that explains why there are two different Mustang Steve wiring schematics - I hadn't noticed that until now - thank you.

In summary, if his coil is a high performance unit, he is disconnecting the pink wire altogether from the ignition and running a new power wire (red) to the ignition module and + side of the coil and disconnecting the brown from the "I" side of the starter relay and red/green from the + side of the coil - correct? Otherwise if he has a stock coil, just tap into the pink wire to power the ignition module.
 

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Almost. The module needs the full 12v applied to the red(or red/blue) wire for start and to the blue(or white) in the run positon. The wire colors vary from module to module but it is the 2 wire plug. I looked over the Mustang diagram and see no other way to pick up correct power anywhere beside the switch. This is all for the stock blue strain relief module. There are at least four different modules I know of and are wired somwhat different. I've converted probably a dozen of these things. Mustang just seems to be the hardest to get to the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Almost. The module needs the full 12v applied to the red(or red/blue) wire for start and to the blue(or white) in the run positon.
OK. I'll have him wire it using the Mustang Steve high performance coil way regardless of which coil he has. I'll help him remove the switch and get-r-dun. Thanks for your help.
 
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