Anyone have any experience with BMW E90 Sport seats? Got a good price on a set close by, would need recovering but sound like they may be worth it. Going to check them out shortly and see how they feel.
@4ocious or anyone who has put modern, Beemer seats in particular, in a vintage car:
Airbag- what did you do? I did get these seats and they are airbag equipped. What is suggested way to handle? Remove and put on Fleabay? Tape off the wires and leave them in place?
Heaters- these seat are heated and I know that will be a plus with my wife. Can I simply install switches and send power to them or is there some sort of control box required?
There are several occupancy sensors, just tape off the wires?
They are full power, I really prefer manual but they really nice. Not sure if I will have to modify seat risers or not. I installed the one piece convertible seat riser so the position is lower than stock. I set one in the car and sat in it, it is a little on the high side but the seat is not in its lowest position. I will have to rig up power to the motor and lower it to really see how it sits.
Airbag- what did you do? I did get these seats and they are airbag equipped. What is suggested way to handle? Remove and put on Fleabay? Tape off the wires and leave them in place? I tried Acura RSX seats before going with BMW E30 Sport Seats. I left the RSX seat mounted side airbags in place but located the gas charge cylinders and removed them (carefully).
Heaters- these seat are heated and I know that will be a plus with my wife. Can I simply install switches and send power to them or is there some sort of control box required? Most all 3 series seats I've known had two stage heating. Lo/Off/Hi switches with indicator lights on the center console. You would need those or something similar, and of course a wiring circuit that can support them.
There are several occupancy sensors, just tape off the wires? That would do it.
They are full power, I really prefer manual but they really nice. Again, another circuit and/or relay. At some point you may need to see about alternator suitability.
Not sure if I will have to modify seat risers or not. I installed the one piece convertible seat riser so the position is lower than stock. I set one in the car and sat in it, it is a little on the high side but the seat is not in its lowest position. I will have to rig up power to the motor and lower it to really see how it sits. Here's where it can get troublesome, and trust me on this, you're gonna want those E90 seats just as low as you can get them for the sake of ample headroom and not feeling "perched" to the point you have to duck to see if the light is green yet. I'm all about ergonomics and was hell-bent to have superior driving position flexibility for both tall and shorter folk (swmbo). The track width of the seats determines how low you can get them because the center tunnel in your car is sloped and cheats to the driver's side. I removed the seat risers entirely, welded steel straps horizontally on the tunnel and the inner rockers, then bent and welded reinforced steel straps across between them as low as I could get them and just barely above the floor pans. By "reinforced" I mean I welded .5" square steel box tubes under all four straps to provide more strength. Because the seat risers are an important part of the unibody SOMETHING needs to shore that up. The lowest level seating position possible is dictated by the lowest point you can get on the driver's side REAR RIGHT (inside) seat track bolt. All else stems from that point, and the lower it goes the more the slope of the tunnel moves the seat out toward the door where it MIGHT INTERFERE WITH THE DOOR ARMREST. The whole process requires quite a bit of measuring and planning to be optimum, both front/rear and side to side.
I bought some BMW seats a couple years ago but don't remember what kind they were. I was checking that all the seat controls worked and discovered they would work for only about 15 seconds. After lots of searching on the interwebs, I figured out that the seat controls needed to be able to talk to the BMW CAN bus system in order to work. So I decided it was either 1) make a whole new wiring harness to bypass the seat's computer system and hopefully get the voltage right and not burn out a motor or 2) sell them and get something else. I went with option #2 and bought seats from a '91 mustang convertible. I wish I knew what year and model those seats came from but unfortunately I didn't write it down anywhere in my notes. Hopefully yours don't have that problem.
Looking into piecing together a basic underdash A/C system for my 68 coupe using a Mark IV type evaporator. Vintage Air has a nice reproduction unit that Summit has for $300. There are also many cheaper underdash evaporators on the market.
Mocking up the exhaust system n my 67 coupe and thought I would pass on some key findings:
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