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Hello everyone,

I am hoping to get others opinions on this crazy idea of mine. I have recently acquired a 1967 coupe with no engine/transmission. Its not a high optioned car, so I am contemplating the idea of a resto-mod. This is something I would want to daily drive as much as possible once the project is completed. I could of course go with a coyote swap, however I saw a few old forum post regarding the 2.3L 4-cylinder Ecoboost they put in the newer mustangs. Its been a few years now the Ecoboost have been out and about, I dont believe finding an engine/trans/ecu/wiring would be to difficult. I am hoping with the smaller size of the Ecoboost, I would not have to completely tear apart the front clip of the car to put a "mustang 2" front suspension. If so I would just spend the extra money for a Coyote 5.0 swap.

I might be dreaming to big, but 300 horsepower and an almost equal amount of torque with the increased MPG and reliability sounds really nice.

So many unanswered questions, but I dont want to get ahead of myself. I only thinking about the benefits of the swap and I need to find out the disadvantages/ obstacles that stand in my way. Would love your guys updated thoughts and ideas on the subject.

Thanks
 

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I’d do a 2.3 Ecoboost were I going to resto mod. They’re using them in some racing classes so they may not be dirt cheap but they’re available. With a few mods 500 hp is within reach if wanted. There are way more 1.5, 2.0 and 2.7 take outs. They have to be adapted for rear wheel drive. (though Ford does have 2.3 crate rear wheel for racing)

The trick is deciding what to do with the PCM. If you use stock harnesses and controllers you’ need to figure out how to make it co-exist without the other modules or features from the donor car. You can do it by being a CAN bus/ODB2 wizard. There are third party and race modules that don’t need the other features but depending on where you are if it needs smog it’s not going to pass.
 

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Anything is possible in the right hands. I work with a very smart instrument tech who owns a side business that builds and dyno tunes performance cars of all makes. One of his specialties is modifying stock harnesses into stand alone harnesses. You almost need to learn a new language to talk with him about this stuff.
 

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Hello everyone,

I am hoping to get others opinions on this crazy idea of mine. I have recently acquired a 1967 coupe with no engine/transmission. Its not a high optioned car, so I am contemplating the idea of a resto-mod. This is something I would want to daily drive as much as possible once the project is completed. I could of course go with a coyote swap, however I saw a few old forum post regarding the 2.3L 4-cylinder Ecoboost they put in the newer mustangs. Its been a few years now the Ecoboost have been out and about, I dont believe finding an engine/trans/ecu/wiring would be to difficult. I am hoping with the smaller size of the Ecoboost, I would not have to completely tear apart the front clip of the car to put a "mustang 2" front suspension. If so I would just spend the extra money for a Coyote 5.0 swap.

I might be dreaming to big, but 300 horsepower and an almost equal amount of torque with the increased MPG and reliability sounds really nice.

So many unanswered questions, but I dont want to get ahead of myself. I only thinking about the benefits of the swap and I need to find out the disadvantages/ obstacles that stand in my way. Would love your guys updated thoughts and ideas on the subject.

Thanks


Just because this guy cut apart the front end to fit the car doesnt mean its absolutely needed, but I suspect with the injection pump being where it is on the driver side, the only way its happening with the shock towers in place is if a custom turbo manifold is made to relocated the turbo forward...then the question is whether there will still be enough room to fold the downpipe back and out of the engine bay. In this case its not the width at the TOP of the shock towers that is the problem, but the width at the BOTTOM...you look at this picture and you can see the engine is offset towards the driver side...there is no reason anyone ever puts more weight on the driver side if they have any choice...something on the bottom passenger side is forcing that choice(most likely turbo and whatever else). As for electronics...you are looking at the same choices as the coyote...a stock wirig haring harness and ECU with PATS deleted and a headache...or an expensive ford Power-Pack harness and ECU. Aftermarket standalone systems arent really an option with a direct injection engine


I myself am swapping in the much un-loved 2012-2017 Mustang 3.7L v6. Being the same dimensions as a 351w width and height wise, it will fit for sure...and it also has 305HP and 287ft/lb of torque and 30mpg
 

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Following this as I have a junk 67 coupe parts car that my son is eyeing. Rather do the ecoboost swap than a coyote for a 16yo lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I do recall back in the 70s there were a few 4 cylinder classic Mustangs. Pinto engines with automatics swapped in. There were also a few Pintos with V8s.
 

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New Raptors have a 450 HP twin turbo V6, might be worth waiting for one to appear in a JY
 

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If you're going to cut the shock towers I think there's better options. If you didn't have to cut them it'd be pretty sweet.
 

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If you're going to cut the shock towers I think there's better options. If you didn't have to cut them it'd be pretty sweet.
That sums it up right there.

You might not be able to fit an Ecoboost 2.3L without cutting the shock towers...but there is always the Lima 2.3L Turbo engine(though its a heavy pig of 4 cylinder at 350lbs) that people have swapped in before...or the Duratec non-turbo 2.3L with conventional port injection can also be turbocharged and will fit better without an injection pump if looking for an alternative that will essentially be the same as an ecoboost by the time you are done
 

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I think putting a turbo on a Duratec has more allure than the EcoBoost. The EcoBoost is a cool engine in a new car, but other than some technology (which may actually present roadblocks for future modifications) it's not going to offer any better bang-for-your buck than dropping in a Duratec with home-built turbo system where you can control every aspect of how it is designed.
 

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They sell the 2.3 as a crate, or you can get one from a wreck. Will need an IFS style suspension to remove shock towers and a control pack. I suggest MTF for suspension.

Controls pack:

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...c-ecoboost-crate-engine-2015-2017/p/M601723T/
I didn’t know they had a street harness, 50 state no less. I’ve seen the race box and harness it’s not CARB compliant. For a couple grand, plug and play it’s well worth it. I looked last night and there are take outs from ‘16 VIN 8 for a couple grand but you need to voodoo the electronics. I looks like $7-8k new plug and play vs. $2-3k used plus pulling your hair out to make it work.

I don’t know the 4 inline will need any cutting. I’d reckon the 6s would but once the 4 is rotated it looks like it would fit. There would still be some fab though, mounts, plumbing, etc. Though were I doing it everything else would be changed too. Even with a Coyote you’d need brakes and a better suspension. I wouldn’t want 300 hp with stock suspension and brake.
 

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New Raptors have a 450 HP twin turbo V6, might be worth waiting for one to appear in a JY
Getting a truck 3.5EB to 450HP is a pretty simple task with some bolt ons and a tune. Grabbing a Gen-I EB and doing the upgrades is much easier than trying to get one of the Gen-2 Raptor motors to work, simply because you can get FMS control pack for the Gen-I.
 

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I think putting a turbo on a Duratec has more allure than the EcoBoost. The EcoBoost is a cool engine in a new car, but other than some technology (which may actually present roadblocks for future modifications) it's not going to offer any better bang-for-your buck than dropping in a Duratec with home-built turbo system where you can control every aspect of how it is designed.
Non boosted take outs are $500-600. Other than the Mazda L series block it’s a different engine. Head and fuel delivery are the most prominent. To boost and get comparable output to the Ecoboost it will be a fair amount of work. For a few grand for the donor engine and a tune it’s easy to bolt on enough performance parts to get just shy of 500 hp from a stock 2.3 Ecoboost. Nearly 800 has been done and sold as a kit and a few guys have done one offs with more than that. Except for circle track small displacement boosted engines have become the norm for performance.
 

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Hope this helps...
 

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I can't wrap my head around the words "4-cylinder" and "Mustang" being used together.

(Never mind the mustang II.)
 

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I can't wrap my head around the words "4-cylinder" and "Mustang" being used together.

(Never mind the mustang II.)
Yeah, its a bit of a culture shock for me as well... I'm used to boosted smallblocks. This little 4 banger is 350hp and equal torque stock so I'm willing to give it a go.

DSC01083.JPG If its a flop, I have a couple warmed over SBFs sitting about to fill the void.

Coop weighs in at 2500# so a nice light weight screamer should be fun. 118672173_10221236828485059_2295057538365210067_o.jpg

Trying to bridge the gap between my boosted 67 Cougar and my stroked 65 wagon as far as the pucker factor. 😁
 
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