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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone:
I just got an edelbrock 600CFM performer series carb (1406)... but before I install it, I have some questions.
1. I have a 1968 fastback with a 289 pretty much stock engine. The intake manifild is an edelbrock RPM. I read on edelbrocks website that it is not recommended to use it with this intake. I´m kind of low in budget right now, can i use that intake? what problems would i find?
2. Where can I hook the positive wire of the electrick choke? in the video says fuse box, what do you think. some say alternator as well
3. Any suggestions about the metering jets and rods? stock settings would work fine? or shoul I tune it?
Thanks to all
Ed
 

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That's strange they would say not to use it with that intake, do they say why?

Hook up the choke to the stator post on the alternator. It's only 7v but it works fine, that's where a lot of people hook it up, myself included. As for the metering rods and jets, Edelbrocks are usually good to go right out of the box. Unless you're way above sea level or you just really feel like you need to, I wouldn't mess with them.
 

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The 1406 is the emission version 0f the 600 CFM carbs. The one that I think they want you to use is the 1405 which comes with a manual choke and richer calibration. I'm running a 1406 on my stock 302 with 289 cast iron intake. I had to richen it up 1.5% by swapping metering rods. The 1406 is better suited to the Performer 289 intake. In the end, no big deal. You'd been better off with the 500 CFM carb ideally but still the Edelbrocks are pretty forgiving. You'll be fine though.

I know on the 65-66's there's only one place to get a switched 12V source. That's on the ignition switch just before the pink resistor wire. You'll have to splice in before this point. Not sure if your car is the same. I also wonder if there is enough power at this point to satisfactory supply enough power for the choke. The wire is a very small gauge, I suspect there would be quite a bit of voltage drop to both the choke and ignition coil effecting the spark quality. On my car I plan on using relays for both the choke and my new HEI distributor to supply enough power. I'm going to run 14 gauge wire to both off a aux fuse block I bought at Autozone.
 

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The red wire on the coil comes from the ignition switch. It only takes a short length of wire spliced into that to stretch over to the choke (at least, it is on my '64, with the coil sitting right in front of the carb). It's switched, it's 12v, and it's handy.
As far as the 600, I think it will work fine, although I agree that a 500 draws better fuel with more vacuum (carbs run on vacuum. The bigger the carb, the less vacuum you have). Here's the rub: If you're even close to the right carb size, it should work pretty well right out of the box. That being said, the only way to be sure that it's calibrated perfectly is to have it DYNO-TUNED. Find a tuner who is willing (and capable) to work with the carb style that you've already purchased. Most will try to start every job by selling you the carb they are most comfortable with. Down here in Georgia, all the boys love Holleys. Either way, a dyno-tuned engine wins every time.
Brian
 

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I run a 600cfm manual choke Eddy on a Perf. RPM. It is a very nice combo. It was an install and go setup after adjusting mixture and idle. My engine is not stock (little split duration cam, worked heads, re-curved distributor, exhaust, etc; through a T5 and 3:40 TL rear. I'm very happy with it. After the build I tried an iron 4v intake and 480cfm 4100. Like the Eddy stuff much better. I did need a phenolic spacer between carb and intake on the Edelbock to avoid the gas percolating...
 

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1) Yes, it'll be fine.
2) Full 12v is required, follow directions and never hook anything besides a tach trigger to ignition circuit.
3) See how it runs. Keep an eye on your plugs for rich/lean condition and change rods/springs/jets accordingly. It'll probably run a little rich.
 

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You should be fine...I'm running a 1405 on a mildly built 306 along with an old school Torker 289 intake (single plane) with recurved dual point distributor, and the engine runs super hard, spools up fast, etc. My 1405 carb tends to run a little rich, so a 1406 would probably be real close to spot on.

You can also buy the $50 jet kit for the carb, I did and you can then dial it in to your application.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone... I will install the carb this weekend and will let you know how it went (hope you can help me if i come up with any problem)... I ended up buying the 1406 as a recommendation from a friend, hope it will work fine.
Tom, which metering rods did you use? that could help if i have a problem...
About the wiring, i think i might go for the stator post in the alternator, i think it may be the easiest way.
I really hope it will be an easy installation.
If you have any more sugestions, they are more than welcome... i´m not very good at mechanics, this will be my first carb install
 

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Discussion Starter #9
B2BigAL,
Nop they don´t say why...
This is what they say:
EDELBROCK PERFORMER SERIES 600 CFM, ELECTRIC CHOKE CARBURETORS
CALIBRATED FOR FUEL ECONOMY
Designed for small-block and small displacement big-block engines, these carbs are recommended only for stock to Performer level applications. They are not recommended for use on RPM or Torker II intake manifolds. Match with an Edelbrock Performer or Performer EPS manifold and other brands of similar design. Calibrated 2% leaner than #1405. Includes both timed and full vacuum ports for ignition advance. Comes with: Metering Jets - Primary .098, Secondary .095; Metering Rods - .075 x .047; Step-Up Spring - yellow (4" Hg). Use our Carb Stud Kits #8008 or #8024 if needed, see Installation Items. For auto trans throttle lever adapters and more, see Tuning Accessories.
Hope this helps
 

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Thanks everyone... I will install the carb this weekend and will let you know how it went (hope you can help me if i come up with any problem)... I ended up buying the 1406 as a recommendation from a friend, hope it will work fine.
Tom, which metering rods did you use? that could help if i have a problem...
About the wiring, i think i might go for the stator post in the alternator, i think it may be the easiest way.
I really hope it will be an easy installation.
If you have any more sugestions, they are more than welcome... i´m not very good at mechanics, this will be my first carb install
Currently everything is bone stock in my 1405. Runs rich at idle (burning eyes), but no black smoke or anything like that...my plan as soon as the snow leaves is to move 1 stage lean and see where I'm at..not sure yet on what I will do to get there (rods, springs, both, etc) I love to experiment).
Tom
 

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Not sure which Tom you're asking about richening up. I went up 1.5%. I also have the 1406, I switched from the #1459 rod, (075 X 047) to the #1455 (073 X 042) rod. Seems to run OK but Im having some other issues ( 2 dead cylinders ). Before I was sooo lean, big bog and just fell on it's face. Throttle response is much, much better but until I find the cause of #'s 3&4 not firing at idle I can't really fine tune it. Yes I did check the plug wires and they're correct and I do have spark at the plug. Oh yeah, forgot to mention my accelerator pump is in the middle hole, move it from the out side hole which has the smallest shot.
 
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