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I'm in Denver so its about 5,300ft where I live. The biggest thing is the Density Altitude changes at the drop of a hat and the system has been performing great!
 

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I know your not a big poster, but I have to know where you got the black distributor cap and collar. I know the distributor is an un badged MSD unit but the red is driving me nuts!
MSD makes black caps as well as red. Just look on Summit. That is where I bought mine. They sell them with or without the top wire clamp. I agree the red caps just look way out of place.
762252
 

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More progress. EFI wiring complete. ECU power wires and fuel pump relay coil wires run to trunk through the passengers door sill. Fan relay wiring complete. Firewall grommet installed. Shameless copy of NailBender's idea.

Other progress includes stock engine compartment wiring replaced, brake lines, master, prop valve installed. I got a the adjustable voltage regulator from Dimension Engineering and got the gauges to read right at 10 and 73ohms. Getting there.


762575


762576
 
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1966 Mustang GT 4sp Nightmist Blue
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Looking good!!

Chris
 
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68 Mustang Coupe
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More progress. EFI wiring complete. ECU power wires and fuel pump relay coil wires run to trunk through the passengers door sill. Fan relay wiring complete. Firewall grommet installed. Shameless copy of NailBender's idea.

Other progress includes stock engine compartment wiring replaced, brake lines, master, prop valve installed. I got a the adjustable voltage regulator from Dimension Engineering and got the gauges to read right at 10 and 73ohms. Getting there.


View attachment 762575

View attachment 762576
Had to give that first pic a second look, the rear axle laying there made me question my eye sight. LOL
 
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Axle photobomb! lol I haven't installed it yet as I want to get the tank, lines, and filter done first.

I had to send the tank back to Aeromotive. The sender was bad.

I'm trying to figure out where to put the filter. The filter I'm using it big in diameter (2" OD). It's a Mercedes OEM filter. They're cheap and 5 micron. A Bosch dealer in NY makes ends to convert it to AN6. So I was thinking the area on the rear frame rail near where the front leaf spring bolts in. The trunk panel in front of the tank is another option, but I have a rear sway bar that goes through there taking up some space. The third option I looked at is in the front fender well on the frame rail. But I'd have to build a protective box around it (no biggie).
 

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I also figured out mounting the tablet. This car has never had a radio while I've had it.

The car has a console. The wires hanging down are for the console lighting and a small bluetooth stereo amp that I'm going to put in the console to drive a RetroSound Speaker that I just put in the dash. It'll be mostly for GPS directions. Music in a car this loud is a waste of time. lol

762588


762589
 

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More progress. EFI wiring complete. ECU power wires and fuel pump relay coil wires run to trunk through the passengers door sill. Fan relay wiring complete. Firewall grommet installed. Shameless copy of NailBender's idea.

Other progress includes stock engine compartment wiring replaced, brake lines, master, prop valve installed. I got a the adjustable voltage regulator from Dimension Engineering and got the gauges to read right at 10 and 73ohms. Getting there.


View attachment 762575
I like the water tight fitting location, should be more stealthy than mine! My excuse is the engine was already back in the car. The radio delete plate isn't very structural in its attachment to the dash fyi. You may end up needing to beef it up.

Looking good!

762595
 

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Yeah! lol The radio delete plate isn't the strongest option. This one is an ancient original one that I picked out of the trash 30 years ago. It had a broken off stud in the back and I epoxied a flat head bolt to it. lol. We'll see if it holds up. If it doesn't, I'll fix it. Maybe a layer or two of carbon to the back side.
 

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68 Mustang Coupe
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1966 Mustang GT 4sp Nightmist Blue
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I'm not running a proflo, but a similar MPI injection setup. I went with an aeromotive stealth tank with the fittings in the stock location. I also used my stock feed as a return line and plumbed my rails dead head so there is only 1 line from regulator to rails. I ordered a roll of 25ft black ptfe fragola hose and only have about 3ft left.
 
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This is what I used as well. If you're REALLY good you can probably do it with one roll.. I ... was not. :)

-Shannon
Two rolls it is then... :LOL:
 

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I removed the fuel rails to port match the intake and just a piece of advise based on that.

The bolts that hold the fuel rails down are black oxide and they're into and through aluminium and face upward. They're a perfect corrosion opportunity. A piece of advise to anyone with one of these would be to pull these bolts one at a time and coat them all the way from the head down to the threads with antiseize.

-Kyle
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289, TKO 5-spd, EFI, 4-discs, TCP coilovers
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I also figured out mounting the tablet. This car has never had a radio while I've had it.

The car has a console. The wires hanging down are for the console lighting and a small bluetooth stereo amp that I'm going to put in the console to drive a RetroSound Speaker that I just put in the dash. It'll be mostly for GPS directions. Music in a car this loud is a waste of time. lol

View attachment 762588

View attachment 762589
My car has (had) the original radio, and I went to ridiculous extreme of installing a new RetroSound AM / FM / Bluetooth unit, which as you point out is completely useless (but looks nice). I configured two ways to support the Pro Flo 4 phablet, one involving a cupholder setup that slides into the stock ash tray tracks and the other that attaches (reversibly and non-destructively) through the cigarette butt extinguisher in the original ash tray. Both of these work well for the EFI phablet (and my wi-fi backup camera in the license plate frame), but hide the new radio (which isn't used).

Phablet Config 2.jpg Phablet Config 1.jpg
 

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I think the best part of the PF4 is the fact that my tablet is in my glove box with probably a dead battery. The last time I used it was when was fiddling with the throttle pedal location and wanted to be sure I had 100% throttle available.

765581


I was always screwing around with the FiTech controller and am happy to be rid of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #239
I have the app on my Samsung S20 and wedge it in landscape fashion between the lip of the ash tray and the buttons on the radio. Works perfect and stays put.
 

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What are you guys using for the heater elbow? The one I just tried was too tall to clear the fuel rail. And it's not very tall ...

Also the linkage appears to be drilled for 7/32" and is hardened. So much so that my cobalt bits and mill file wouldnt scratch it. Standard linkage is usually 1/4" or 3/16" (#10). What are you guys with the old school linkage using? I can turn a bushing to adapt it.
 
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