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I put 90 deg bulkhead fittings in the factory holes in the front apron where the original fuel line came in (there is one on the other side too). See my pic above.

They're kind of near where I expect the fuel rail front ends to be. I will make short hoses to connect those to the fuel rails on either side. Not as hidden as moving them to the back, but it should be easy to work on. And chicks dig braided stainless hoses, right? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #265
Wow, that’s a beautiful engine!
 
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It's coming along. My plan for the fuel lines worked out well. Phew! lol. I wondered how I was going to like it. I have a plan for the heater hose from the intake. There are molded U bend hoses. I need to add a restrictor to that hose anyway (aluminum heater core). So I will turn a splice/restrictor and use a U bend from the hose I have to the elbow.

770928
 

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I have another hair brained idea. lol

I've read that some of you found the throttle to be too sensitive with the PF4 and have converted to a cable setup to get a longer pedal throw.

I've set mine up with the stock lever linkage (with 1/4" rod ends on the horizontal link). But if it's too sensitive, I'm going to try using a clamping shaft collar that's been drilled and tapped 1/4-20 on the stock throttle lever (the vertical rod) so I can bolt the horizontal link rod end to the side of the shaft collar. That way I can slide the shaft collar down the vertical throttle lever until I find the sweet spot of pedal throw. Thoughts?

-Kyle
 

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It's coming along. My plan for the fuel lines worked out well. Phew! lol. I wondered how I was going to like it. I have a plan for the heater hose from the intake. There are molded U bend hoses. I need to add a restrictor to that hose anyway (aluminum heater core). So I will turn a splice/restrictor and use a U bend from the hose I have to the elbow.

View attachment 770928
That looks great. Did you have to extend the coil wires to get them up front or did you just pull that whole harness halfway under the manifold? What valve covers are those? Those are awesome.
 

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Thanks Bigred!

Yep, I had to extend the wires to the coil. The valve covers are Billet Specialties. I saw them on pics of Mac427's car here and had to have them! lol The only negative is the baffles come uninstalled and with flimsy sheet metal screws to attach them. I'm paranoid about things coming loose in an engine. So I drilled and tapped the bosses in the castings to use 10-32 screws and loctitied them in. No biggie.
 

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Getting there.

The offset air cleaner base seems to solve a few problems. I bought it just to mock up. It's a super cheap one and the bell mouth is way too square to flow best. I might look for one with similar dimensions but a more well rounded bell mouth.

The normal monte carlo bar fouls the distributor bad! lol I like Nailbender's idea. But in looking at the car there is a space between the distributor and the air cleaner that's a couple of inches rearward of where the normal bar would go. I mocked up the idea in green tape. Of course I will use proper black electrical tape for the final version. lol

Any thoughts about moving the monte carlo back like this? Seems like it'll work. The bar is actually more on the inner fender that the normal position.

771755


771756
 

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Getting there.

The offset air cleaner base seems to solve a few problems. I bought it just to mock up. It's a super cheap one and the bell mouth is way too square to flow best. I might look for one with similar dimensions but a more well rounded bell mouth.

The normal monte carlo bar fouls the distributor bad! lol I like Nailbender's idea. But in looking at the car there is a space between the distributor and the air cleaner that's a couple of inches rearward of where the normal bar would go. I mocked up the idea in green tape. Of course I will use proper black electrical tape for the final version. lol

Any thoughts about moving the monte carlo back like this? Seems like it'll work. The bar is actually more on the inner fender that the normal position.

View attachment 771755

View attachment 771756
I would imagine that this is a superior design. The closer you can get the monte bar mounting points to the tops of the shock tower, the better, since that is where all your load is.

I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.


Sent from the interwebs... where else?
 

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Discussion Starter #273
That looks pretty close to where the MC bars were on the GT350R.
 

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Thanks Bigred!

Yep, I had to extend the wires to the coil. The valve covers are Billet Specialties. I saw them on pics of Mac427's car here and had to have them! lol The only negative is the baffles come uninstalled and with flimsy sheet metal screws to attach them. I'm paranoid about things coming loose in an engine. So I drilled and tapped the bosses in the castings to use 10-32 screws and loctitied them in. No biggie.
Mac427 here: True about the baffles on the Billet Specialties valve covers. Mine are fine using the screws they came with but the above approach is lots better. I'm gonna change mine if I have occasion to remove my valve covers.
 

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The wire holders are these with some angle brackets I made to mount them to the valve cover bolts.

The offset air cleaner base is this one. But I have no idea how tall of a filter will clear the hood. It's gives a slight rise to the filter (about an 1/8"), but any lower would hit the linkage. It might not work. Just want to be clear that this was just an experiment for me. And like I said, the corners are too sharp to flow well.
 

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I used Billet Specialties holders. A little pricey but after some painstaking work with wire length they came out great. I found it easier to cut the wires to length at the distributor end rather than at the plug end.
I really like how your routing turned out - do you happen to have the part# for the holders you ended up using? Thanks!
 
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