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And probably another $300-400 for a fuel pump and accessories .
 

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I didnt know such a thing was available but should have seen it coming.
To me the only reason now to use the earlier version is to try and hide that its EFI, better is better right? I would assume the intake part is pretty much tuned to flow well for each application.
From the video I'd think the only thing I would like better is to have dual O2 sensors just to be more obsessive with it:)
That was a concern of mine. I want my car to appear stockish but have modern amenities. After seeing the pro flo on a few engines the rails don't stick out much and to the average person they wont notice them.
 

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It was mentioned in an earlier post, the additional expenses to support the Pro Flo install. Therefore, in an attempt to get the "on the street" cost, will not the following be needed?
Just guessing, these additional parts can easily add $300-500, to do it correctly.

BTW, feel free to add.....

1. Cost of the unit, itself
2. High pressure fuel pump?
3. Plumbing costs assoc. with the HP pump install
4. Return fuel line and cost
5. 02 Sensor bung welded in the header (if not yet installed)
 

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I have an iPhone, so it won't work on my car. :wink:
Big bright android phones are available cheap used everywhere, so you can just buy one, ask your friends if they've got an old one laying around, or buy a larger android tablet. I'd rather have a dedicated device for my EFI so my phone could do phone things.

I'd strongly recommend Samsung Galaxy android devices. A big Galaxy note would be a good choice, and bolt up a phone cradle holder to a flex stalk and make it easy to see or get creative...?
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
It was mentioned in an earlier post, the additional expenses to support the Pro Flo install. Therefore, in an attempt to get the "on the street" cost, will not the following be needed?
Just guessing, these additional parts can easily add $300-500, to do it correctly.

BTW, feel free to add.....

1. Cost of the unit, itself
2. High pressure fuel pump?
3. Plumbing costs assoc. with the HP pump install
4. Return fuel line and cost
5. 02 Sensor bung welded in the header (if not yet installed)
I think you’ve pretty much summed it up. But to be fair, you would have to purchase these items for the Holley too. Edelbrock also has a fuel sump that can be installed near the engine which eliminates the fuel return. But the instructions do indicate the need for a vent line to run to the gas tank, so I’m not sure what the real value is.

Also, remember that the Pro-Flo comes with a distributor, which the Holley does not.

The one drawback that sort of matters to me, but not so much is that with the Edelbrock, the fuel pump is external. I would prefer to have the pump in the tank for noise and heat reasons. You can add a relay and then use an internal pump, but that seems unnecessarily complicated to me. Holley has a very slick pump assembly that is a direct replacement for our cars, which includes a return fitting. I’ve been wondering if it could be used with the Edelbrock system. I’ve been meaning to call Edelbrock but just haven’t had the time.
 

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Fuel injection doesn't often add more peak power than a carb, but it can often deliver better average power and almost always better economy. As for throttle body injection vs. port injection? Port injection *usually* wins. You don't have to worry about fuel falling out of suspension, only airflow - and that makes it easier to get the gasoline and air where it's supposed to go. The long runners on a port injection setup can do a really good job with low end torque too.



Sometimes, though, throttle body injection can outperform, on the right intake setup. Reducing intake temps because of vaporization can produce a denser charge on some engines. Additionally, from a pure cosmetic point of view, hiding everything under the air cleaner and making an engine look stock can be fun too. Or running a 'ram air' setup that looks factory? Shaker hood scoop, etc? Hard to do with throttle body setups.


A really good carburetor like the 4100 or Summit M-series can often be *almost* as good as fuel injection, and still deliver top end that's equal to or even better than the very best EFI. You'll still never win when it comes to mileage though, because a carb just can't turn off the fuel when you're on decel and coast. Best you can hope for is 1-2 mpg difference.
 

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....The one drawback that sort of matters to me, but not so much is that with the Edelbrock, the fuel pump is external. I would prefer to have the pump in the tank for noise and heat reasons. You can add a relay and then use an internal pump, but that seems unnecessarily complicated to me. Holley has a very slick pump assembly that is a direct replacement for our cars, which includes a return fitting. I’ve been wondering if it could be used with the Edelbrock system. I’ve been meaning to call Edelbrock but just haven’t had the time.
Good point. I'd want the e-pump in the tank for sure. It's clearly superior. Are you talking about the slick Holley in-tank pump with that Hydra-mat pickup screen that does away with the need for slosh baffling in the stock tank? I need something like that but now for a carb now(doing away with the mechanical fuel pump in the timing cover due to packaging problems) and for possible efi in the future. Prob will require a totally different pump because of the pressure differences right?
 

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An in tank pump can be used with the pro flo 4 so long as it provides the correct psi. I'm am going to run the aeromotive stealth tank with the built in efi pump.
 

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Just found out today at the smoky mountian rod run from cfm motorsports that edelbrock currently has a promotion. If you buy the the pro flo 4 before Oct31 they will give you the fuel sump for free. A $400 high pressure fuel source for free does it for me and I'll have my pro flo ordered before the end of the month.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Fuel injection doesn't often add more peak power than a carb, but it can often deliver better average power and almost always better economy. As for throttle body injection vs. port injection? Port injection *usually* wins. You don't have to worry about fuel falling out of suspension, only airflow - and that makes it easier to get the gasoline and air where it's supposed to go. The long runners on a port injection setup can do a really good job with low end torque too.



Sometimes, though, throttle body injection can outperform, on the right intake setup. Reducing intake temps because of vaporization can produce a denser charge on some engines. Additionally, from a pure cosmetic point of view, hiding everything under the air cleaner and making an engine look stock can be fun too. Or running a 'ram air' setup that looks factory? Shaker hood scoop, etc? Hard to do with throttle body setups.


A really good carburetor like the 4100 or Summit M-series can often be *almost* as good as fuel injection, and still deliver top end that's equal to or even better than the very best EFI. You'll still never win when it comes to mileage though, because a carb just can't turn off the fuel when you're on decel and coast. Best you can hope for is 1-2 mpg difference.
My Edelbrock carb runs pretty well, I don’t have too many complaints. Sometimes it will randomly drop idle for a bit, but it usually corrects in a few minutes. I’m really just looking for increased reliability, idle adjustment when the a/c is on and to not have to tune the carb. Many on here are carb whispering tuning wizards, sadly I’m not one of them. Since the car is modded, I figure I might as well go for the new flashy tech. If I get a little better drivability and HP, well that will be a welcome bonus.

Good point. I'd want the e-pump in the tank for sure. It's clearly superior. Are you talking about the slick Holley in-tank pump with that Hydra-mat pickup screen that does away with the need for slosh baffling in the stock tank? I need something like that but now for a carb now(doing away with the mechanical fuel pump in the timing cover due to packaging problems) and for possible efi in the future. Prob will require a totally different pump because of the pressure differences right?
That’s the one. Very cool unit. The Holley and Edelbrock systems both require 58 psi, so from that perspective the pump should work. Edelbrock shuts off the negative lead to the pump, where as most other manufacturers shut off the positive lead. This is where the relay will come in, but I can’t see why they wouldn’t work together.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Just found out today at the smoky mountian rod run from cfm motorsports that edelbrock currently has a promotion. If you buy the the pro flo 4 before Oct31 they will give you the fuel sump for free. A $400 high pressure fuel source for free does it for me and I'll have my pro flo ordered before the end of the month.
That’s awesome! I can’t wait to hear how you like it. I don’t get the sump though. It says you don’t need to run a return fuel line, but it does say you’ll need to run a vent line back to the tank. I guess a vent line is easier, but still if I’m running a line I might as well just do the return line and not have to find a spot in the engine bay for the sump. Do I have this correct?

I’m pretty much sold on it, I’m just waiting for the end of the driving season. Unless there’s a compelling reason to buy sooner.
 

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That’s awesome! I can’t wait to hear how you like it. I don’t get the sump though. It says you don’t need to run a return fuel line, but it does say you’ll need to run a vent line back to the tank. I guess a vent line is easier, but still if I’m running a line I might as well just do the return line and not have to find a spot in the engine bay for the sump. Do I have this correct?

I’m pretty much sold on it, I’m just waiting for the end of the driving season. Unless there’s a compelling reason to buy sooner.
Wait until the down season. Then jump on it. At the moment, I'm putting my winter down time together....
.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just found out today at the smoky mountian rod run from cfm motorsports that edelbrock currently has a promotion. If you buy the the pro flo 4 before Oct31 they will give you the fuel sump for free. A $400 high pressure fuel source for free does it for me and I'll have my pro flo ordered before the end of the month.
I talked to Edelbrock tech support this afternoon and the guy recommended that I not use the sump. He said if it gets hot where you live and you sit in traffic the fuel can heat up. He suggested running the return line so the car always has fresh, cool gas. I think this is the way I’m going. The only question I have to decide is whether to run an external fuel pump or go with an internal along with a relay.
 

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I talked to Edelbrock tech support this afternoon and the guy recommended that I not use the sump. He said if it gets hot where you live and you sit in traffic the fuel can heat up. He suggested running the return line so the car always has fresh, cool gas. I think this is the way I’m going. The only question I have to decide is whether to run an external fuel pump or go with an internal along with a relay.
OK, my spin on this.......
In my "down" season, I'm seriously seeking to swap out my FuelSafe Fuel Cell for a 22 gay OEM tank. My fuel cell is at it's end-of-life as it pertains to both the bladder and the foam (anti-slosh). To replace both is approx. $800-$900. Therefore, I'm looking at the "Tanks Inc" website and their products, The return line system is the way to go as it insures you always have a "cool" supply, not to mention it reduces the work efforts on the part of the pump.
The relay is a given, and, I feel, adding an inertia switch is a given too.
 

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Another option is the holley returnless pump...I think it's part number 12-305. It's self regulated to 58 psi, goes in the stock location in the tank, comes with a hydramat, and three different float arms for the 16, 20, and 22 gallon tanks. I'm using one and other than the fuel gauge being a bit wonky, it's worked very well.
 

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OK, my spin on this.......

In my "down" season, I'm seriously seeking to swap out my FuelSafe Fuel Cell for a 22 gay OEM tank. My fuel cell is at it's end-of-life as it pertains to both the bladder and the foam (anti-slosh). To replace both is approx. $800-$900. Therefore, I'm looking at the "Tanks Inc" website and their products, The return line system is the way to go as it insures you always have a "cool" supply, not to mention it reduces the work efforts on the part of the pump.

The relay is a given, and, I feel, adding an inertia switch is a given too.
I'd encourage you to look at the Aeromotive Stealth II tank.
 

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Another option is the holley returnless pump...I think it's part number 12-305. It's self regulated to 58 psi, goes in the stock location in the tank, comes with a hydramat, and three different float arms for the 16, 20, and 22 gallon tanks. I'm using one and other than the fuel gauge being a bit wonky, it's worked very well.
I'm running the same pump and so far have had no problems whatsoever. Unless I tell them otherwise, nobody can tell I'm running the Fitech system. That being said I went with Fitech because I got an extremely good deal on it otherwise I would've seriously considered the Edlebrock system. The word "stock" has not been used to describe my car for a lot longer than I've owned it.
 
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