[Viperjames]

HI all, wondering if there is a thread or web link or something that perhaps someone posted as i know this swap has been done a million times. I have a 1992 Mustang GT Full running Donor Car with T-5 that i am swapping into my 1968 Convertible. My goal is to us whatever i can from the 1992 for the 68. Basically I know that i need the Transmission crossmember swap. My 68 was an Automatic (currently no motor or Tranny in 68), questions..

1. Can i use the Pedals or any clutch parts to bolt/plug into my 68? I have ready there are options with the clutch hydraulic, etc what is the easiest route in my case and what parts do i need to buy and what can be used from 92?

2. Computer/fuel. What do i need to do here with the fuel/ gas tank fuel pump/etc options? Is there a kit for this?

3. Exhaust i currently have BBK Shorty headers, Hi pipe no cats, and flow masters. will this bolt up to the 68 or will i need a new set up?

4. Power steering, what is needed for the power steering? Can i use all the components from the 1992 or will i need something new for the 68?

5. Drive shaft - will the 1992 Drive shaft fit or is it too long/short/ what is recommended here?

Anything else i should be aware of?

Thank you all!!!!

 

[gotstang]

1. The Foxbody pedals won't fit. Cable, Z-bar, or hydraulic, take your pick
2. You can use an external pump like a 80s F150 or several companies make a tank with in-tank pump. Not sure that anyone makes a prebent return line tho. Rockauto has a $250 tank with pump in it, not sure how they work in real life, but they look nice



3. Nope. Headers are way off
4. PS pump will work, everything else no, unless you buy a lot of aftermarket parts to make it fit
5. Probably not. Also, the 8.8s have a flange instead of a yoke, so there's that to consider.

 

[Matter]

This blog looks like it has a lot of basic info.
http://mustangefi.blogspot.com/

 

[Viperjames]

1. The Foxbody pedals won't fit. Cable, Z-bar, or hydraulic, take your pick - Thank you! Got Steve's Cable clutch kit seems to be the easiest and least expensive good option, obviously not as smooth as a hydraulic but much better than original.
2. You can use an external pump like a 80s F150 or several companies make a tank with in-tank pump. Not sure that anyone makes a prebent return line tho. Rockauto has a $250 tank with pump in it, not sure how they work in real life, but they look nice- Thanks will look for an in tank pump set up since i need a gas tank anyway.



3. Nope. Headers are way off - Really i am reading form other blogs that the full length headers are not recommended but doable which made me believe the shortys would work.
4. PS pump will work, everything else no, unless you buy a lot of aftermarket parts to make it fit - ok thank you
5. Probably not. Also, the 8.8s have a flange instead of a yoke, so there's that to consider.

Thanks again for all your help!!

 

[Viperjames]

This blog looks like it has a lot of basic info.
Mustang 5.0 EFI and T5 swap

Thank you! i found the following blog which was EXTREMELY helpful obviously a bit old but really good...

https://www.mustangevolution.com/mustang-articles/swapping-a-50l-efi-t-5-into-a-classic-mustang/

 

[Matter]

I have a 5.0 HO and a t-5 in a '68 and I had Hedman shorties that fit fine, I went to clone tri-y's and they fit fine. Biggest issue is my Ron Morris cable clutch is very crowded so I will eventually change to something different.

 

[MikeG69]

I just installed a mildly modified 1987 5.0 with Headman shorties into my 69 Coupe & they fit fine. I am using a hydraulic clutch system from Modern Drive line, & I got one of the Spectra fuel tanks with the electric fuel pump mounted in the tank that I got from Rockauto but have yet to fire it up so I do not know how good it is. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6404190&cc=1132399&jsn=556&jsn=556 Here is a pic of my 5.0 with the Headman headers.

 

[665spd]

I think you're asking if the fox headers will fit- they hit the steering box and other stuff. My car came with a (bad) T-5 conversion. I used a very reasonably priced crossmember. The modern driveline cable setup works with virtually NO long tube headers. I would use the 68 bellhousing and Zbar if I did it again(I'm told the t-5 will fit this setup! not sure). Finding a driveshaft, forget it. Spend the money on a Denny's driveshaft. He'll have you take precise measurements, but you will get a proper fit and balanced to 10000 rpm. The harness and ECU are not too bad to hook up. Stowing and hiding all the wiring is the big issue. Do yourself a favor and build in a battery and ignition relay power bars. I bought a nice tanks Inc setup for FI and really like it.

All the hassle was well worth it. The injected 5.0 runs so well and smooth. Tap the key and go! Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[DonP]

I'm doing a 5.0HO/AOD swap myself and am finding some good info at the following sites:

EFI 5.0 install

Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Home
and 665spd's build thread https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/1146470-rusty-me-1966-coupe-5-0-resto.html


The new Aeromotive EFI Gen II Stealth tank uses in-tank pump and has the attachments in the stock location.
https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/stealth-gen-2-fuel-tank-universal-64-68-ford-mustang/


I think some people have been able to use the foxbody gas pedals by putting a spacer under it so it has enough travel.

 

[Grimbrand]

I would definitely not kludge in some Fox pedals into your '68. +1 on the Stealth tank that Don mentions. I've seen one, and they are sweet! Your upper intake will make installation a chore if I remember right, due to the weird angle of the air pipe. If I were you, I'd try to find an earlier manifold, or better yet, get a GT40 style off a 97-01 Explorer or Mountaineer if you can. If you turn the upper manifold 180 degrees so the air pipe is on the driver side, you don't have to move your battery, AND you can use your factory throttle linkage to run the EFI throttle with minimal effort. No need for a cable pull setup. Keep your serpentine belts, and run an electric fan if you can. It will be less fuss and more horsepower.

Do not just take off your shock tower braces to get clearance for your intake. You need them to keep your fenders from flopping around like a 21 year old college student at a rave. Make sure you get a purpose-built setup that can go around that big old EFI manifold.

 

[kakn]

4. Power steering, what is needed for the power steering? Can i use all the components from the 1992 or will i need something new for the 68?



Thank you all!!!!

I've been wondering this same thing. I have a 89 Mustang GT motor and T5 in a 70. I have been told "Only thing is it will require a adapter on the pressure port of pump to install pressure hose. Return will be ok."


My issue currently is I have no hoses at all for any power steering set up period. So i need to source the hoses that will work then outsource the one or ones that will need adapters and or fabricated.

 

[kakn]

As for fuel tank.....if yo are on a budget you can make a Frankentank. My late brother cut the top off the Fox tank and grafted it onto a brand new tank. He took A LOT f measurements and swapped over the baffle in the tank as well. The sending unit is still the stock sending unit for the 70. Just the pump and vent were swapped over. Is this the correct way to do it? Probably not. Does it leak? Nope, it holds pressure just like a stock tank would.



Also, for what it may be worth temporarily, the stock Fox Body fuel lines might work temporarily as well. The 70 currently has fox body fuel lines on it. They are bent very closely to the contours of the 70 but it is off on some places. Once again, is it the right way? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! But, I will be able to drive the car with no issues. It just isn't going to win ant beauty contests


And yes, I know your car is not a 70 but I don't know how close your 68 would be to a 69/70 wheelbase or compatibility.

 

[Matter]

You can run an external pump mounted near the tank, there are fuel senders that replace the stock unit with a return fitting built in. If you want a simple return fitting you can drill the filler neck and solder a fitting close to the tank as possible with a little turn down on the inside to direct the fuel towards the tank. If your on the cheep, you can possibly find a frame mount pump off an old Ford truck in the 5.0 years also.
As for fuel lines it is simple to run new hard plastic lines full length with factory fittings on the ends. I think maybe Ron Morris used to make a kit...
Also, you can get a NAPA nps 76311 type lll pump fitting and have that swedged on the end of your '68 hose. That should be the correct fitting for your late pump. I don't think you will have success finding an adapter.
You can use the fox pedal with a spacer but they aren't all that nice looking. You can use a '69 or '70 pedal as they are cable type and look correct. You might have to relocate your fuse box a little.

 

[kakn]

You can use a '69 or '70 pedal as they are cable type and look correct. You might have to relocate your fuse box a little.

69 and 70 used a "z bar" or equalizer bar. The clutch cable is a upgrade kit you can buy.

 

[Viperjames]

Hi all, the build is coming along real nice, I will have very detailed photos/videos, etc of the full build to help others out trying to do something similar. This car will literally be new from front to back, and top to bottom. Very exciting. A sincere thank you to everyone here who has chimed in with advice it has been priceless and really helped me. I expect to have the care completed/ (mechanics) minus interior by the end of this month and will update. Thanks!

 

[Huskinhano]

I put a 97 GT40P Explorer 5.0 in my 66 a couple years ago. I'm running a carb and 4 speed. While not exactly the info you're looking for you may find something.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1012953-got-my-gt40p-up-running-my-66-a.html