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So glad to see this topic and all of the responses and opinions. I am in the planning stage of having my 351 Windsor rebuilt. All I will be giving the machinist is the block and the crank. Everything else will be new. He will be building the engine as well. He is a very well respected machinist and performance engine builder. I will be wanting a street friendly sunny day cruiser type of engine. When I asked his opinion about EFI his opinion was to stick with a carb. His response was EFI packages are "cheap because their cheap". Just one opinion of course. I know some guys swear by their EFI and seems like some guys swear at them. So please keep the opinions coming so I can make an informed decision!
 

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@1970rusty - I don't know you, your project goals or anything, but I did spot something you said. Without anything else to go on, I am initially agreeing with your machinist, that you should stick with a carb. The reason is that you are paying someone to assemble that engine for you, rather than take a challenge to learn how to do it yourself. That's fine, but is the only indicator to me that you may not be the type to invest in learning more or developing skills in order to install and tune your own stuff.

That's fine, but tells me you could use a basic carb or expensive self-do-everything EFI and give it a shot, but you will possibly just ask someone else to do it for you. At that point, and depending on your project goals, that would likely be a carb and your machinist's recommendation for tuning. I don't mean to sound presumptive, but it's one way I look for clues for a good fit, and only one clue. Just my 2-cents not knowing anything else about you. 🤷‍♂️

The same goes for others too comfortable with what they know or have. That's fine, but there is little motivation to explore stuff or methods that may be better, quicker, cheaper or whatever. Those are often the personality type to cuss at what they don't know or diss other options rather than motivate themselves to learn new ways they might solve whatever issue is in-front of them quickly. For them, anything outside their comfort zone is a poor fit. Lots of personalities lead to lots of options—and opinions about them. ;)
 

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Is this a daily driver car or just an occasional fun drive around town? The climate where you live will also affect this, are there big temp changes there? Will you potentially be driving throughout the year, not just during sunny 75*+ weather? I daily drove my coupe and never had a major issue in over 4 years with the efi swap, sunny weather to freezing and covered in snow.

The Sniper setup asks like 3 questions and then it self learns and adjusts for any condition. I didn't have to mess with it ever after the initial install. It automatically adjusted for temp changes , the engine never missing a beat.

I can't say the same for most carb vehicles I've had. Maybe I didn't have the $800 super carbs professionally setup by a tuner, maybe that's what I needed.

The cost has come down considerably in the last few years too. A decent kit can be had for under a grand. The fuel system is cake. You need a fuel pump and possibly a regulator, or there are tanks with those options built in now.

Heck I think there was a Holley Sniper kit in the classifieds, complete with fuel system either now or not long ago.
 

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@1970rusty - I don't know you, your project goals or anything, but I did spot something you said. Without anything else to go on, I am initially agreeing with your machinist, that you should stick with a carb. The reason is that you are paying someone to assemble that engine for you, rather than take a challenge to learn how to do it yourself. That's fine, but is the only indicator to me that you may not be the type to invest in learning more or developing skills in order to install and tune your own stuff.

That's fine, but tells me you could use a basic carb or expensive self-do-everything EFI and give it a shot, but you will possibly just ask someone else to do it for you. At that point, and depending on your project goals, that would likely be a carb and your machinist's recommendation for tuning. I don't mean to sound presumptive, but it's one way I look for clues for a good fit, and only one clue. Just my 2-cents not knowing anything else about you. 🤷‍♂️

The same goes for others too comfortable with what they know or have. That's fine, but there is little motivation to explore stuff or methods that may be better, quicker, cheaper or whatever. Those are often the personality type to cuss at what they don't know or diss other options rather than motivate themselves to learn new ways they might solve whatever issue is in-front of them quickly. For them, anything outside their comfort zone is a poor fit. Lots of personalities lead to lots of options—and opinions about them. ;)
The poster of this thread was asking for peoples opinions on EFI verses a carb. I am also at that stage of making a decision about EFI or carb. I was simply welcoming the very valued opinions of people here that are able to respond with their experiences with EFI verses a carb. Nobody was asking for help in matching their personality to a certain carb or EFI system.
I had no idea that paying someone to build you an engine was an indication that you have no motivation and you have a personality disorder. Thanks very much for your amateur keyboard psychologist's opinion.
 

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LOL, now that was some insight! Although most are unaware, our personality traits are certainly a strong factor in choice of induction system, and leads to more or less satisfaction. You don't have any disorder I mentioned, unless you're divulging more than we need to know. But this approach has gained a lot more satisfied users when matching wants, needs and personalities. I meant no disrespect and only helpful perspective, though your personality may not handle that well. Do your thing!
 

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'68 Diamond Blue Fastback, '68 F100 SWB
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For simplicity and reliability, carburetors hands down. Besides, I think it’s part of the experience of driving these old cars. They have little quirks, and sometimes they’re a little grumpy. Kinda like the loose nut behind the wheel 😜
Agreed, I love the simplicity of these cars. One wire to the coil to make it run, unlike my Super Duty which has a wiring harness as big as my arm. But as far as the simplicity of the carburetor itself over fuel injection , I have to disagree there. Once it's set up fuel injection is easy to tune if not self tuning and generally trouble free (until it quits). And even then troubleshooting is normally done by computer. Tuning a carb is a hands on lost art, something that gives self satisfaction and puts a smile on your face when you get it right. A lot of the younger generation that laugh at us old school guys who still run carbs, mechanical fuel pumps and points ignition, They would be completely lost under the hood of our cars.
 

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'69 Mustang coupe...331, Fox / Explorer EFI, TK3550, MDL, SoT, TCP, Fays2 Watts, 94-04 Cobra discs
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Since we're talking about relationship status and kids - married with 10 kids (9 girls...ages 16yo down to 2yo)...car has been a project for 20 years. :) I'm using a Foxbody A9L ECU, Painless standalone EFI harness, Explorer 5.0L fuel rail, Systemax EFI intake manifold, etc. I plan to tune via laptop and Quarterhorse chip for getting it roughly dialed in and then taking it to a dyno for a fine tune.

I'm after smooth drivability, fuel economy and jump-in-and-go reliability whatever the temp / elevation and I see zero reason to go backwards to a carb.

Nate
 

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I put the sniper EFI on my 351w. It was not difficult to install. And not difficult to setup. I like that you can hardly see it under the air cleaner. From a frontal view the routing of my fuel line and the abscence of a mechanical pump is what jumps out a bit when looking at the engine bay. I decided EFI so I could piggyback the TPS off for the 4r70W which I also did and so far is working fine because I am hoping to put this car on the road a good bit and wanted more of the cruising type setup that looked kinda stock. I used the sniper intank pump so that no return line was needed. 15 minutes to install. So far what I don't like is the pump is a little loud but more gas in the tank helped quiet it down and I think a heavy trunk mat will help out also. Also a little something I don't like is that there is quite a bit of extra harness to tidy up between the efi and firewall, but not too bad.

However, that said I will probably do carbs on my other builds I have planned, planning on those to be more original looking restorations in the engine bay and driven less so can't see putting that extra cost in and not really use it much. I actually tend to prefer carbs I guess because I have always had good luck with carbs on vehicles I've run in the past and would not be opposed to driving a tuned carb with anything.
Just me.
David
 

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I'm old enough to know my way around a Holley carburetor but didn't like the constant fiddling so I was an early adopter of the FiTech TBI. I went through 3 TBI units and 2 wiring harnesses under warranty before I sold it to a forum member for $100. FiTech is still in business so I would have to assume improvements have been made. I currently run the Pro-Flo 4 that was flawless for two years until it wasn't. This summer the Edelbrock return rail mounted fuel pressure regulator failed and a direct replacement being backordered indefinitely I had to convert over to a external firewall mounted unit. In that process I must have moved the PF4 distributor extension harness connector onto the top of the fuel pressure sender unit. The end result was me bringing the trailer to the car after it stopped running at 2 autocross events. The car ran perfect until it got heat build up and then wouldn't run until it had cooled for hours. After a lot of cursing and hair pulling moving the distributor extension harness connector an inch off of the top of the fuel pressure sending unit made the car 100% awesome again! Multi port fuel injection is the best thing on earth when it works, and a head scratcher hair puller when it doesn't. Given the G forces of autocross I'm going continue on with multi port EFI for now.
 

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I'm old enough to know my way around a Holley carburetor but didn't like the constant fiddling so I was an early adopter of the FiTech TBI. I went through 3 TBI units and 2 wiring harnesses under warranty before I sold it to a forum member for $100. FiTech is still in business so I would have to assume improvements have been made. I currently run the Pro-Flo 4 that was flawless for two years until it wasn't. This summer the Edelbrock return rail mounted fuel pressure regulator failed and a direct replacement being backordered indefinitely I had to convert over to a external firewall mounted unit. In that process I must have moved the PF4 distributor extension harness connector onto the top of the fuel pressure sender unit. The end result was me bringing the trailer to the car after it stopped running at 2 autocross events. The car ran perfect until it got heat build up and then wouldn't run until it had cooled for hours. After a lot of cursing and hair pulling moving the distributor extension harness connector an inch off of the top of the fuel pressure sending unit made the car 100% awesome again! Multi port fuel injection is the best thing on earth when it works, and a head scratcher hair puller when it doesn't. Given the G forces of autocross I'm going continue on with multi port EFI for now.
My car came with the Pro Flo 1, and it was ok, but I want to run a supercharger and it just wasn’t compatible. I upgraded to the 4, and mine didn’t come with a regulator, so from the swap I’ve had a hefty Aeromotive regulator (in anticipation of having to run another fuel pump, bigger lines, and way bigger injectors for the supercharger). I also run a fuel pulse dampener to avoid any resonance in the lines. I haven’t had any issues whatsoever but I’m always on the lookout for anyone else’s experiences with the same setup. I can’t wait to run boost!
 

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We have more clients going back to carb from the throttle body EFI systems(fast,atomic,etc). 4 out of the last 10 installs had to come back for new throttle bodies or ecu mods. The quality of these kits are awful and after you wait on hold for an hour to talk to tech you still get no where. If you get an EFI buy two for spare parts, no auto parts stores while on a trip will have a replacement if you break down. I would buy a nice carb, have it tuned and never look back.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Carb setups have "personality". Each has it's own preferred starting procedure. Pump the gas. Once, twice. No throttle, hold the throttle a little, or halfway. Etc. EFI is touch nothing except the key. Light flipping on a light switch. That is nice enough in its place (wife's car, daily driver. work truck, etc) but I like that my antique hobby vehicles require some actual human interaction for proper operation and continued optimal performance. Modern cars are "hands off", old ones are "hands on". Not carved in stone, just how I like it.
 

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I ran carb forever because I enjoy tinkering and tuning. I'm at the point where I have limited time to spend on the car so I went EFI to be able to spend my time on other things with the vehicle-mine is a work in process going on 4 years now. It is nice not having to tune for the seasons anymore and I like the wider mid-rpm performance. I do miss the sound and feel of the secondaries kicking in though. I'm sure fuel mileage has improved but I never checked.
 

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IMHO, unless it is multi-port EFI and can regulate ignition timing, there is not much performance difference between the two. IIRC there is an Engine Masters episode where this was shown on the dyno. EFI of any type can do away with vapor lock hot start issues, but so can a phenolic spacer and/or electric fuel pump. I have had very good luck with the Summit branded 600cfm vac sencondary carbs and they are economical financially speaking. I have also considered replacing the carb with TBI EFI, but to me it is like rear disc brakes. The cost vs benefit is not there. Ultimately it is your car, your money, your decision. Either way drive and enjoy it.
 

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If the question is EFI vs carb, that's fine in that context. A separate question is old horror stories about specific brand quality issues with carbs or EFI, and has little bearing on the first question. I have to say I spend far more time troubleshooting on classic carbs than EFI these days, as both are shrouded in mystery to most owners.

Sure, you can turn a screw to set idle, or click to do it in EFI, but for most it ends there. If your favorite technician knows carbs, get their recommended carb. If they know EFI, get their recommended EFI. They are the ones helping if you run out of answers, so get what they know. Or, commit to learning to do it yourself, but we wouldn't be here asking questions if we already knew everything we needed.

If you know enough to scramble eggs, that's fine. But, you'll only ever have scrambled eggs on the menu. ;) Learn enough to pick your Pros and consider your Cons, make your choices and drive happy.
 

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67 Mustang 351w
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Another EFI guy here. Carburetor tuning is an art; one that I did not care to learn. I was rebuilding my motor, and my wiring under the hood and under the dash was a mess, so when I redid the motor and wiring, I took that opportunity to add the Pro Flo 4. So far, I have no regrets.
 
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1965 Mustang Fastback restomod
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My old Race Demon 750 is too small for my new engine combo, when the X-Flow Sniper came out it seemed perfect fit for me (bigger t-body is able to support H.P. needs) and being it did not cost drasticly more than a 950-100cfm race carburetor and i already needed to upgrade the entire fuel system as old stuff wasnt enough for new motor, it was the logical choice ! Plus tuning a carb to drive comfortably on the street with [email protected] degrees of camshaft duration can be finicky, efi does it better lol

Ive gotten a 750 double pumper to run decent on the street with [email protected] duration w/ lots of overlap, but it had slight part throttle stumble that i couldnt work out, it was irritating.
 

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'69 Mustang coupe...331, Fox / Explorer EFI, TK3550, MDL, SoT, TCP, Fays2 Watts, 94-04 Cobra discs
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As far as the expense of good EFI setups, watch FakeBook Marketplace. I've seen several complete kits posted up for reasonable prices. I went the semi-factory route because it works and is straightforward to tune (albeit with some added hardware) and it's simple to find parts for. I picked up half the parts super cheap (Foxbody guys looking to upgrade to the next level) and / or at the local pull-your-part (Foxbody accessory drive setup).
 

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I’m looking to get a 96-01 Explorer 302 for my 67 FB build because it’s the cheapest path to build an engine up to 280-300 hp.

I’ve been putting off getting an engine because I can’t decide on whether to make EFI work or just switch to a carb. I’m familiar with a carb, and that hp range will be streetable and easy. The EFI route seems a bit daunting, what with all the wiring and such.

I’m just curious to get some opinions on why you did what you did if it was a reason other than originality.
Personally I'll never go EFI again. I bought the 400hp street version from FiTech. Instantly had issues and they refused to send me a new unit...insisted I send it back. Was told it was a software issue. Over a month later I get it back. New issues. Again, send it back. This time told it was a bad ECU. Over a month later I get it back again. By now I'm pissed and rather than install/uninstall/install again I went back to my trusty Holley Avenger.
 
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