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Threes are nice and the cheapest ones I could find that will work . they need paint 480.00

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d669y-r/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang


for 150.00 more they are coated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d669y/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

run at least 20” – 24” of 3” pipe from the header back . . if you can’t fit 3” then use the biggest you can or you will loose hp . . anytime after the extension go down to 2 3/4” . . if you want to run 2 3/4” from the back of the header instead of 3” I suppose you could . . you need at least 2 5/8” pipe all the way back no matter what . . 2 3/4” is better . . 3” will work but might be a hair big . . bigger is not always better.

You also need a crossover pipe or x pipe.
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Discussion Starter #24
Threes are nice and the cheapest ones I could find that will work . they need paint 480.00

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d669y-r/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang


for 150.00 more they are coated.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d669y/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

run at least 20” – 24” of 3” pipe from the header back . . if you can’t fit 3” then use the biggest you can or you will loose hp . . anytime after the extension go down to 2 3/4” . . if you want to run 2 3/4” from the back of the header instead of 3” I suppose you could . . you need at least 2 5/8” pipe all the way back no matter what . . 2 3/4” is better . . 3” will work but might be a hair big . . bigger is not always better.

You also need a crossover pipe or x pipe.
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Thanks for the info.

I have an existing very new 2.5" Magnaflow SS system with X pipe, that I want to make that work even if it isn't ideal. Trying to avoid $$ creep.

Down the road it will be me something to swap out and pick up some extra HP ;-)

I REALLY don't want to buy new headers either, but with the engine out that would be the easy time to replace them....
 

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Thanks for the info.

I have an existing very new 2.5" Magnaflow SS system with X pipe, that I want to make that work even if it isn't ideal. Trying to avoid $$ creep.

Down the road it will be me something to swap out and pick up some extra HP ;-)

I REALLY don't want to buy new headers either, but with the engine out that would be the easy time to replace them....
you can run the 2 1/2 but it will cost you a few hp, however, as i mentioned, you simply can not run 1 1/2" headers . . i wish for your sake you could but....

big power costs big money.
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Discussion Starter #26
you can run the 2 1/2 but it will cost you a few hp, however, as i mentioned, you simply can not run 1 1/2" headers . . i wish for your sake you could but....

big power costs big money.
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Thanks...And yeah there is no real way around it....you got to pay to play....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Also, IMHO, going with an AOD behind it in THIS configuration is a waste as you'll never get it into 4th gear anyway.
I only use OD on the highway/freeway when I'm tired of taching out my car currently. Can you explain why 4th with not be usable? I have never owned a stalled auto before.
 

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It will run down low but it will run like its a$$ is on fire once it hits over 3000 rpms with that cam and with the dyno numbers you showed. If you are not prepared to run it like that you won't be happy with it.
 

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I just can't see that motor, as built, wanting to highway cruise at 2,000 rpm...
And ironically, EFI would actually be a big help at low rpm/part throttle for a high revver.

John
 
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