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EFI w/in tank pump Need Trunk Floor Spacer!

820 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  MSMach1
The gas tank has the pressure line, return line and vent line all coming out of the top of the tank at a 90 degree angle. I need to put a spacer of about 1" and probably a thin hard board on top of that to protect the lines from damage from trunk usage. Polystyrene (Styrofoam) and gasoline are the primary components of Napalm so I'm not using that. What has any else used as a spacer?
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The gas tank has the pressure line, return line and vent line all coming out of the top of the tank at a 90 degree angle. I need to put a spacer of about 1" and probably a thin hard board on top of that to protect the lines from damage from trunk usage. Polystyrene (Styrofoam) and gasoline are the primary components of Napalm so I'm not using that. What has any else used as a spacer?
I'm planning on a piece of 18 ga sheet metal to cover the whole area. It will need some reinforcing ribs welded to the bottom side to give it some strength and to cut down on vibrations.
 

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The gas tank has the pressure line, return line and vent line all coming out of the top of the tank at a 90 degree angle. I need to put a spacer of about 1" and probably a thin hard board on top of that to protect the lines from damage from trunk usage. Polystyrene (Styrofoam) and gasoline are the primary components of Napalm so I'm not using that. What has any else used as a spacer?
Any update on this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any update on this?
The top of the tank is sealed and I used hardline from the connections. I could not find urethane so I used styrofoam with an 1/8" hardboard on top. It has worked perfect plus it gives extra sound insulation. The rubber trunk mat fit back in fairly well as did the spare tire, jack etc. The more I thought about the danger of using styrofoam would more than likely come from a severe rear end collision. I can easily remove the hardboard and foam to access the tank if I would need to.
 

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I made / lined my entire trunk area with 1/2 inch thick PVC board. Comes in 4x8 sheets - near any color.. I used black then covered with trunk carpet. Impervious to gas and most chemicals.
 

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I made / lined my entire trunk area with 1/2 inch thick PVC board. Comes in 4x8 sheets - near any color.. I used black then covered with trunk carpet. Impervious to gas and most chemicals.
Did you have to put anything around or on top of the tank or does the pvc board not flex at all?
Would love to see a pic.


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My tank is an aftermarket tank - flat on top. I just placed a piece of fabric between the two. So the tank holds the center up but the sides I made braces out of the PVC board - almost like beams underneath that made it quite ridged. I made beams all around the perimeter as well that I attached the sides. The piece below in front of the red toolboxes is the floor piece. I used piano hinges as it would not go in and out full size etc.
The trunk carpet I found on Amazon and glued it on with 3M (90) spray adhesive (Home Depot👍).
The PVC board I purchased from a plastics distributor in Dallas - About $120 a sheet. 2 sheets did the entire trunk and my center console. Had a half sheet left over. Numerous small tubes of PVC superglue from Amazon worked extremely well bonding all the pieces. A few sheet rock screws here and there as well. Cut everything with my hand saws, table saw and shaped with a disc grinder. I found it very easy to work with. The round portions I heated in my BBQ and bent them around some large pool filters…. 😜.
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A little late to the party, but if I were doing such an installation I'd take my original tank and cut the top off, including the mounting flange, grab some U-channel from Grainger (see below), place the "old" tank top in place and bolt the new tank, with U-channel spacer up from the bottom, using 2-1/2" bolts all they way through.
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I love the BBQ idea for shaping the plastic.
I made some wood templates over the weekend and used 3/4 boards as a spacer on top of the tank.

3/4 inch gave me just enough space for my connections and made a level foundation for the floor. I am not sure if I will keep the spacer boards on top of the tank yet, but I see no reason not to use them.

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Yeh, I'm late too, however, I posted a whole bunch of my experience and what I did to protect the lines and the electrical using foam board and strips of 1" insulation as "stand-offs" to the thank top.
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I made a 2 piece plywood floor that makes a nice flat floor. It leaves a nice breathing space in between my stainless steel tank (made locally at Rick's Tanks) and the plywood floor. Then I custom cut 1/8 Masonite board to cover the sides and tail lamp panel. Covered everything with a low pile automotive carpet. The side and tail light covers are mostly tension fit with only 4 screws needed for removal. Glued some carpet to the exposed wheel wells and covered the pinch welds with windlace. I also moved the filler to inside the trunk and added the Scott Drake electric trunk release. I plan on making a carpet covered cover for my Optima battery next time I'm in the mood for a project.

I can strip the trunk back to bare in 30 minutes if I ever need to service the pump inside the tank. Nice and clean in there!
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I made a platform out of 1” C channel and tied it in at the front to the staggered shock mount I made. It bolts in at the back to nut plates.
it’s removable and I have .100” aluminum sheet in several pieces with an access plate for fuel pump access.
I will make several hard point tie down whatever I need. Hopefully I can fit some sort of spare in there
Not quite finished, but will add some sort of insulation too.
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