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Thanks, I'll check on those items. I know the column and shafts going down to the rack are good, no problems there.
Not expecting it to help with return to center, just with a little less effort on the constant correction
 

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Thanks, I'll check on those items. I know the column and shafts going down to the rack are good, no problems there.
Not expecting it to help with return to center, just with a little less effort on the constant correction
Is your system just operating in "failsafe" mode?

I to have a TCP rack and having just installed the Prius epas operating in failsafe mode, I am not super happy with the way it drives down the highway. I completely relate to constantly having to correct in order to keep the car moving in a straight line. On the upside, driving around town is very nice. I can steer the car with one hand, as you know, this was nearly impossible with a manual TCP rack.

I am going to fiddle with it some more and see if I can use the 2007 Yaris non-ABS ECU and make it speed sensitive. Wish me luck! Please keep us posted with your results.

Andrew
 

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Is your system just operating in "failsafe" mode?

I to have a TCP rack and having just installed the Prius epas operating in failsafe mode, I am not super happy with the way it drives down the highway. I completely relate to constantly having to correct in order to keep the car moving in a straight line. On the upside, driving around town is very nice. I can steer the car with one hand, as you know, this was nearly impossible with a manual TCP rack.

I am going to fiddle with it some more and see if I can use the 2007 Yaris non-ABS ECU and make it speed sensitive. Wish me luck! Please keep us posted with your results.

Andrew
Yes, as far as I know mine is just in fail safe mode. I am having the same problem with the straight line driving - constantly having to work at it. I found some info on the TCP site on adjusting the pinion set screw that I am going to check into. I don't have the car right now, but will look into it later this week.
I definitely want to add the ability to adjust it, just not sure if that's possible with the Corolla setup.
 

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Yes, as far as I know mine is just in fail safe mode. I am having the same problem with the straight line driving - constantly having to work at it. I found some info on the TCP site on adjusting the pinion set screw that I am going to check into. I don't have the car right now, but will look into it later this week.
I definitely want to add the ability to adjust it, just not sure if that's possible with the Corolla setup.
Bruno now makes a adjustable knob for the Toyota ECUs like those offered for the Saturn Vue ECU. That might be your easiest and least expensive option.

Andrew
 

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I have been digging deeper into the ins and outs of the Toyota EPAS system. One thing that I ran across is that the Toyota systems have a "torque sensor zero point calibration" that must be performed in case of a wheel re-alignment or if the motor assembly is replaced. This is described well here (toward the bottom of the page):

https://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/92544/Electronic-power-steering?Page=3

As far as I have seen, nobody has talked about this when installing the Toyota gear into older vehicles. This seems like a very important procedure and the fact that nobody is doing it, leads me to believe that it is partially (if not fully) to blame for the lack of centering that I (and others) are experiencing with the system.

Another thing that I found out, and this is a bit confusing, is that apparently, the Yaris ECU doesn't actually go into full speed assist mode unless it sees an RPM signal come across the CAN bus. This is confusing to me because I swear that my system does change the level of assist based on speed, but I have no concrete way to verify this, except for how it "feels" to drive. This has also been tested by others on the bench by connecting a square wave generator to the Yaris ECU speed input (pin 5) and reporting variability in assist level based on altering the pulsing frequency.

The information found here is invaluable (post #23):
Electric power steering - Page 2

I have been in email contact with the original poster (his name is Jared) of that thread. Here is a more complete pin-out for the Yaris steering ECU:



This is a wiring diagram that Jared put together.



Jared solved the CAN signal issue by using and custom programming the CANdo Auto Module:
CANdo AUTO - Automotive CAN Bus Module

Here is an excerpt from his post on the Toyota forum:

"I going to jump into technical which will make much more sense once you research the CAN system. I was able to find the hex decimal code for engine RPM is 2C4 wheel speed is either 0B0 or 0B2. Since my setup has a non ABS eps ecu has an analog wheel speed signal (input). I only needed the engine RPM on the CAN network so i will only go over how I programed the Cando for this. The Cando has 2 analog inputs that can be programed to then transmit programable CAN data. It also can have ten static data points programed and continually repeated. When you get the software open there are four tabs. "Input view", "Input setup", "CAN transmit" and "CAN setup" first off we need to go to "CAN setup" and change the setting to 500kps to match the network speed of the CAN system. Then back to the tab "CAN transmit". Now as I said earlier the hex for RPM is 2C4. The data length is 11 bit. The dlc is 8. The information I used was ramdomly picked after much trial and error. Almost 3 pages of codes I tried. I could set the RPM in connect my scan tool and see the RPM but still no assist. After much frustration I finally realised that it was a setting I had wrong. It was how often I had it repetting the message. The end result looked something like this 2C4 8 06 8A 00 19 00 00 92 09 Repeat rate 20 ms(milliseconds). All this done and turned the car on and immediate assist. I still have not been able to drive the car and see if it feels bettter. Still working on some idle issues with the engine. I could however tell the assist was greater. Last thing to work on is connecting the CAN wiring to the DLC so i can see about changing the setting for the assist level at idle."

What makes this more frustrating for me is that the Holley Dominator does use CAN communication. This is used for communication with Racepak and the Holley digital displays. The frustrating part is that the Holley CAN protocol is proprietary, so the odds of the Yaris steering computer "understanding" the Holley data packets are nil.

Before I go down the same path as Jared, I need to have a conversation with DCE. Their Microsteer ECU is speed sensitive. The only question remains is if the Microsteer ECU is compatible with the Toyota motor. If it is compatible, then I am inclined to ditch the Toyota ECU and simplify this ordeal by spending money on the Microsteer ECU instead of buying the CANdo box. I also need to find out how DCE handles the torque sensor center point calibration, as this seems rather important for obtaining satisfactory on-center feel and return.

I am open to thoughts and suggestions!!!

Andrew
 

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Post 159 and 160 in this thread...However, clicking on those links now takes you to a Corsa control knob. I would contact that seller and see if they still make it for the Toyota.

Found their website:
https://www.bwe.pt/index.php/pt/online-store/controladores-direcao/toyota-1

Although, I have to say that making the system automatic is the way to go!

Andrew

thanks. I'm using the prius motor and module. as far as I know, it's set for a fixed level of assist and I believe earlier on in this thread, I think, someone tried to use one of Bruno's modules to control the level of assist with no luck.


I thought for a while there I was going to switch to a Saturn Vue set up as I have a heavy 80s Thunderbird. I didn't and actually have one of Bruno's automatic Saturn Vue controllers that I don't need if anyone is looking for one. Shoot me a PM if so!
 

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has anyone had the prius eps motor apart? I need to redo my EPS set up since the guy who did the work for me did a horrible job. I have a feeling he may of grinded off the spline on the output shaft so I was wondering if just the output shaft itself could be swapped out for one from another unit...
 

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Late model wheel with EPS in classic Mustang?

Has anyone installed a modern column/wheel with radio and phone controls with the EPS? I was thinking of going down this route to save from cutting my stock column?
 

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this is why you don't let hacks work on your car... if you can't do the work yourself, take it to a shop that does quality work, even if it costs a little more money...it'll be worth it over having to pay to have the work done more than once!

this is the prius set up in my fox body thunderbird...crazy part is, the person who did the work is a welder and a machinist for a living...scary! who know what was done to the input shaft!













 

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this is why you don't let hacks work on your car... if you can't do the work yourself, take it to a shop that does quality work, even if it costs a little more money...it'll be worth it over having to pay to have the work done more than once!

this is the prius set up in my fox body thunderbird...crazy part is, the person who did the work is a welder and a machinist for a living...scary! who know what was done to the input shaft!
What is with that grinding gouge? I understand the relief cut for the pinch bolt, but that gouge is not good.

Got any photos of your TBird? I used to have one that I probably never should have sold. It was a great long distance touring car.
 

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What is with that grinding gouge? I understand the relief cut for the pinch bolt, but that gouge is not good.

Got any photos of your TBird? I used to have one that I probably never should have sold. It was a great long distance touring car.

I have no idea. it looks like really shoddy work to me. I just picked up a new prius column today and I have a fresh tbird column coming in for my car hopefully sometime next week. it's best to start fresh, I think..


a few months back when my buddy was helping me out with my car, he took a look under the dash and took a short clip of the steering stuff. the shaft moves inside of the coupler before the coupler even moves...you can also hear it clunking around too...






here's a pic of my car:


 

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all, am I correct to assume that the upper shaft comes out of the tube by the threaded end?


attached a photo with an arrow for the direction I assume the shaft comes out..



 

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this is why you don't let hacks work on your car... if you can't do the work yourself, take it to a shop that does quality work, even if it costs a little more money...it'll be worth it over having to pay to have the work done more than once!

this is the prius set up in my fox body thunderbird...crazy part is, the person who did the work is a welder and a machinist for a living...scary! who know what was done to the input shaft!













Sorry the person that did this is not a welder OR machinist. He is a meat cutter or butcher. No offense to the meat cutter or butcher.
 
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