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Per my previous post... I am purchasing an Edelbrock Performer intake for my stock 289-2v engine.
I am also purchasing an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb....
They have manual choke (1405) & electric choke (1406) versions.

Which one should I get? Is it worth it to pay the extra for the electric choke? Is there any advantage?

Thanks all.

Eric
 

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The electric choke version also has leaner calibration too. The big problem with the electric choke is a 12 volt source. The only good source is off the ignition switch before the ballast resistor wire. This is the only place where the 12 volt is on only when the engine is running. Do you want the choke energized when you have the key in accessory?

Anyway, you must tap off of that spot. But one thing I don't like about that, it'll be an additional load on that small gauge wire further dropping the voltage to the coil. I'll be using a relay on mine!

With the manual choke, just buy a repro hipo cjhoke cable and install.
 

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I have a 1406 Edelbrock on mine. It's the electric choke model. It's
a really fine carb. Some people hook the choke up to the stator on
the alternator for the 12v source. I hooked mine up the the fan motor
for the heater. Plan on trying the stator hookup myself. G/L with whatever
one you get.
 

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I have a Holley, but just converted to an electric choke. It works great.

I lived for 18 years with a manual choke that I did not use. Given I lived mostly in California and had an automatic transmission, it was not a big deal. Now it is colder in spring and fall in Wisconsin. Add in a manual transmission and a more agressive cam and I need a choke.
 

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I have the electric choke also; and like the other poster mentioned I hooked up to stator on alternator.
 

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Huskinhano says, "Anyway, you must tap off of that spot. But one thing I don't like about that, it'll be an additional load on that small gauge wire further dropping the voltage to the coil. I'll be using a relay on mine!"

This is not necessary because the drop in the wire is a very small voltage. The heater element in the choke draws about 1A at most and the coil draws up to 8A. The wire and switch are capable of handling 15A continuous, so its no problem. What you can't do is to cascade this over and over without a relay/fuse block such as Painless Performance 70107. I mean the electric choke won't hurt but start adding a 100w stereo, power window lifts, power antenna, etc...then you've got a problem.
 

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I have the 1406 on my 351W and after leaning the jets and meters down two steps I get 16.5 mpg with my AOD. Never have to touch it. Starts standing outside the car in half a turn.
 
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